If you've got a boost leak it's more than likely from the piping connections that there - that's a place we've never had a problem reported from and the intercooler's one our our best sellers.
Spray hot soapy water on the 4 pipe connections (use dish soap if you have it around) and go for a...
With clamps it's a tough question, but I'd lean towards no (to be safe). It looks like the Flowmaster is cut and slip as is our y-pipe, so you're going to have to cut and slip there as well.
Welds depend on the market around you, so I'd call an exhaust shop and ask. If you show them both parts...
As a note for folks we're aware of the issue with the Race intercooler and addressing with a slight redesign. Will be no more rubbing issues (which were few and far between, but happening to be frank).
We appreciate that input! That’s not something we’ve heard of before (particularly with the Street) but we’ll certainly add that to our engineering notes.
When the pipe kits were released a few years back (intercooler has been out for about 3 years) the hose length became a question on newer...
All 3 are going to be similar in terms of installation as they're stock replacement - OEM piping will fit all 3.
Our Street is easily the best bang for your buck in terms of value and data on the product page confirms effectiveness - if I can answer any questions feel free to PM me...
The couplers you're seeing on our web site are for the charge pipe kits we offer as the inlet/outlet on the Race IC is .25" larger for performance-related reasons. The Charge Pipe Kit comes with smaller silicone couplers for OEM fitment, so we offer the larger ones for Race IC fitment (seamless...
The Race will fit with the stock crash bar, yes.
You want to measure IAT2 with the Cobb AP, not IAT. IAT is up top and IAT2 is post-intercooler.
Feel free to give me a shout over PM if you've got any other questions!
If you're going stock location give us a look while you comparison shop.
There are plenty of reviews on the site (and via a Google search) but the product page link below has actual data proving the effectiveness of our unit at a comparable price to the AM one...
No worries - it's what we're here for! Sorry for the delay as I was out of commission yesterday.
Option 2 is your best bet. In regards to option 3, the only option I've seen that's 3" from y-pipe down is something like the MBRP cat back that comes with a 3" y-pipe but uses the reducer between...
The y-pipe is 2.5" and connects from the downpipe via a 2.25" band clamp (that is under the car now).
Our downpipe is 3" but connects to the y-pipe via the same sized reducer adapter on the other side (3" to 2.25 adapter). Since this post we have introduced a 3" to 3" adapter, but you would...
Apologies for this. This was a hang-up with the first batch where the wrong clamps went out - we've since updated the packing list so it should be good to go!
The Cobb is a stock replacement unit. While those are MUCH better than the OEM units they still don't cool as efficiently as a larger front mount intercooler (such as our Race unit above).
There are other factors (cast end tanks for better flow, quality of the core's fin pack), but the biggest...
Most expensive doesn't necessary equal best intercooler.
Give us a look. Data-backed performance on a large, efficient core (details in the link below) and featured on record-breaking 800hp+ Mustang.
https://www.cvfab.com/products/cvf-race-intercooler-for-14-18-ford-mustang-ecoboost
You can save yourself a good amount of money compared to that Mishi pipe here:
https://www.cvfab.com/collections/15-21-2-3l-mustang-ecoboost-exhaust/products/cvf-3-stainless-steel-downpipe-catted-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost
As was said stop and go traffic isn't a great way to measure effectiveness. There's a bit more to it than simply saying <10 degrees over ambient is the goal (such as is it the first pull or several, is the ambient 70 or 90?, etc.)
Normal for the Street IC in hotter temps. (60-70 degrees) on the...