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I've seen a few issues and personally had the issue where the mantic cerametalic clutch for the 18+ d4 does not disengage properly out of gear. I haven't heard of a specific fix, so 15 and up mantic 18 up would go with mcleod or centerforce myself.

I'm a mechanic and wouldn't call doing opg and crank sprocket easy. An oil change is easy, spark plug, easy. Tearing the front of your engine down then retiming it is a little work. Requires a good amount of time and many things can be done wrong. I've also only done it once so someone that does...

I would second that you use 1 or 2 bottles of ceratec to see if that changes anything

Trans is sold

That is usually a sign that the thermostat has failed in the open position, it does that so you won't overheat but it will take forever to get up to temp. If you're changing the thermostat anyways then yes it should fix it

Damn, I have borla attak and was looking for s type but I have the active system

How hard is hard? Maybe your overthinking it? Maybe your clutch is slipping slightly at top speed? How many miles on the car? Take the temp of the trans after a good run then compare it to normal street driving

Nope

I have a fore lvl2 system no complaints here. I have yet to hook up my ethanol content gauge to monitor alcohol % and fuel temps, but no issues running down to 1/4 tank and still having some fun yet. I did however pop a ringland on #7 at around 12psi due to not opening the ring gaps up. So...

Are these mt82d-4 trans you guys are having issues with? I had the same issue on my 19gt with a mantic cerametalic clutch. Wouldn't shift out of first most of the time, dropped the trans 3 times to make sure the tob was bled properly, no go. 8k shifting was perfect but around town was horrible...

I've maybe missed a gear 2 times since my mgw shifter was installed. Before that at least 50% of the time I would get locked out or miss a gear. This is all with the stock 19 clutch btw

That's where I installed my sub gain knob on mine. It's a good possibility

Would those work on a gen 3 5.0?

Contact your tuner and tell them you have the pp gauge cluster

Also why isn't the pilot bearing included? Looks like they include a new one

what flywheel does this come with? Aluminum or steel? Thanks

Take a bulb out and use a test light to see if there is power, or a new bulb. I doubt they are both burned but it is possible. Also test light can check your fuses

I have to pull my engine and was dreading pulling the long tubes, good to know they can stay on!

I would check the plug in that cylinder, and while it's out compression check. If you don't have a compression tester rent/borrow one. You could switch coils with another cylinder and injector to see if the code hops to another spot. These motors are known to have issues with cylinder #7

I would call wherever you're buying the block from