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Good question and I should have clarified that my statement was specific to 2nd and 3rd gear corners. High speed corners maintenance throttle is sometimes needed and unavoidable.

Got yourself just a bit of trailer there eh chap? 😜

And that something is 200lbs springs with race slicks at 43psi and not enough camber.

Unfortunately no CAD drawings. Just a full weekend of trial and error shaping it. That shroud was used without an ac condenser but you could build one similar that would work with a condenser. You’d still need to seal between condenser and radiator though. I was trying to figure out how to seal...

There is a bit more noise the lower the ratio goes but it’s not a massive jump at least not with my 4.09 which my buddy set up meticulously. My 3.73 with a swapped pinion flange flange was wayyyyy worse.

Harness bars are straight up not safe. Stay stock or do a 4pt with harnesses and seats.

Ugh it’s so hard to slow down enough for that one. Just feels like I’m stopping on track.

You’re so unnecessarily aggressive. Time and again. It’s just an Internet forum don’t take yourself too seriously.

Yeah def increase front camber to -3.5 and see how wear and grip are. I’d bet money they both improve measurably. Rear camber at 2* should be about perfect. Front camber and be more patient mid corner waiting to apply throttle and I bet it’s a lot closer to what you are hoping from the car...

In my experience these cars don’t like maintenance throttle. Avoid it at all costs. Also just added a note about camber to my post above. Take a look. Don’t know how camber would be fine with your setup if you’re driving the car near the limit.

Not necessarily. A number of fast guys on track have found that once you have the rest of the suspension set up right that the base GT bar is best. When you’re at the limit of the front of the car the pp or gt350 bars make for a loose rear end. My gt350r rear bar felt amazing on the street and...

And just to rule out an impact from aero do you have a wing and no splitter? Also does it understeer in low speed, medium, and high speed corners? Or just some? Assuming no aero imbalance your described setup should be pretty neutral, with one exception, your front camber. Hence why driving...

Engine changed out for a coyote. That setup with a setrab ~645 engine oil cooler would have been perfect.

What exactly do you need to break to get your clearance?

I have engine oil temp and trans temp. Stock diff temp sensor in the cluster. Pressure is more critical and I’d be tempted to go with STACK for that but for temp glowshift seems fine to me.

Ford Performance thinks otherwise so I’ll stick with their opinion. Also with oil at 255* and the GT500 oil pan and pump, 948 and -12 lines I’m still seeing 95 PSI at redline which makes me happy, piece of mind. To his point though the FP FL820 oil filter has more than double the stock filter’s...

yeah for -12 Aeroquip specs 1-1.5 flats as an approved alternate to a torque wrench.

Its very tight but my fittings (Raceflux from Improved Racing) do fit. Its so tight though the first fitting needs a flat facing the other fitting. If you have one of the points on the first fitting facing the second fitting they will make contact and you will not be able to tighten the second...

Hahaha totally. Dremel.

If you are wondering what it looks like without the pony: I didn’t want to give up that airflow either. RE: priming: yes you’ll be fine leaving the cooler and lines empty. The Tstat in the sandwich plate bleeds by some oil even closed so the cooler will fill pretty quickly after startup...