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Are the screws on the bottom and side of the door panel just regular 6 point nuts or are they 12 point?

Are the screws to remove the panel just regular 6 point socket screws?

I hear ya.. if the rattles weren't so bad I would love this car so much more.

thanks! Can you tell me the shape/size of the socket I need to loosen the bolts on the bottom of the door panel and the one inside the door handle?

Do you by chance know what that black box with the wires is?

I would just drive it as it's meant to be driven, however you may choose to break it in just drive it like you want to. If there is an underlying issue you don't want to mask it or prolong it from showing up by "taking it easy". It will probably be better for you and the car for any major issues...

Gotcha, I'm a torque wrench noob so bear with me. Will I have to buy that T55 bit and then attach to the torque wrench?

Is there a specific type of torque wrench I need to loosen/tighten that screw? I can't really tell what the shape is in your picture

Yep, that's why the IRS sleeves are legit (for most people who install them) I only wish there was an easy way to line up the front subframe as well, my front casters are not consistent from left to right.

Hey just saw this old post. Did you ever by chance have like a small tink sound rattle coming from the driver side seatbelt latch area? Basically right behind your left ear. I can't track down this constant tinkering rattle coming from that area at low speeds. The sound is like an intermittent...

Yo...I think I have the same rattle or tink sound coming from the same area at low speeds. Did you ever track it down?

omg if this turns out to fix my rattle you are goated. do you have any tips on safely removing the panel without breaking any clips or pins and what else I should be tightening/padding up?

I recently started hearing this constant clicking/rattling coming from the circled area in the picture below. I'm not 100% sure this is the specific area but when I press on the part marked with the arrow it produces a rattle or clicking noise of something loose. Is there something inside that...

What did you do with the pressure line once you found out it was causing the noise?

I have them installed and for most people who get them installed (with a few exceptions), it has fixed any uneven wheel poke seen from left/right rear wheels. It basically aligns the rear subframe by forcing it to go back on exactly in the center of the mounting holes. Steeda's description, "...

Do you have the Steeda IRS sleeves installed?

I have the Steeda IRS sleeves in there already but the gap is still uneven. Also my casters have always been quite off from side to side. On my recent alignment, LF caster is 7.3 and RF is 6.6. The car drives fine and straight, but this side to side caster diff has always had be stumped. I wish...

Thanks for the input, I agree it's just factory tolerance or how the front subframe was lined up from factory. The car drives great after the alignment and it's on stock ride height. It's not like I can feel the caster difference, it drives straight. DO you think it's not worth getting plates to...

Just got an alignment and everything looks good except for the caster difference from left and right that I'm stumped about. The suspension is completely stock and here's the specs after alignment: Left caster is 7.3 Right caster is 6.6 Front Toe 0 Rear Toe. 0.13 both sides Rear Cambers: -1.5...

Awesome! By moving the slider, do you mean you moved it more towards the body of the car? Did it fix your particular buzz/rattle? Mine is coming from what sounds like above the window, a buzzing right behind my left ear, I really hope this fixes it.