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Let me know if you wanna ship it. I will buy it off you.

Did you ever figured out? I’m on the same boat right now and don’t want to go down the rabbit hole purchasing parts to ultimately find out they didn't help with the bounciness. My car sees some track time but its mostly a DD so I want a middle ground.

Just fixed the wheel hub. To my surprise, it was the right wheel bearing that was bad. Left one was intact That cap I’m holding is supposed to be sealing the bearing and isn’t supposed to come out. It was just sitting there when I took the axle nut.

Looks like I'm gonna need some help with that axle nut haha. 5'9" and 180lbs or just a long tube to get some mechanical help. I'll have to find a torque wrench that goes that high as well.

Yeah, I agree. But 254ft-lbs? what needs to be torqued to that number? I'm running a square setup 19x10 with 285s all around as well. Just lowering with the stock wheels can really increase the wear on them if you don't re torque all the bushing bolts. There is a thread here that mentions all...

Make sure to buy the axle nut and most people recommend also replacing the cap for the axle nut since it can get damaged while taking it off. I attached the pic for the part number. Hope that helps.

Found them on a random website. Rock Auto has some that will be 100 for both. But I still went ahead and bought OEM ones. $230 total. I don't wanna cheap out on important things like these. Also, my bearing truly gave out now. Cant take semi hard right turns now without it making excessive noise.

At least it’s only $100 bucks to buy both wheel bearings. And I can’t imagine the install being too bad.

I honestly am starting to think it could be a bad wheel bearing. Because of the grinding noise. For example, I know I have a tight clearance on the passenger side between the frame and my headers and it never makes a noise when turning left. In other words, I don’t think the motor mounts allow...

I’m chasing the same noise. Does yours sound like metal to metal, but as if something that’s rotating is making contact with another metallic piece? I’ve got some pointers but I’m almost certain it might be the header hitting something. Although it doesn’t quite explain the rotating bit of the...

I was considering going this route. I technically just have hairline cracks on them right now. But I think I ended up snatching some Whiteline bushings that are softer than Steeda's bushing inserts. (I say I think because from what I've read, these have been discontinued) I don't wanna just do...

Did you ever install the bushings? I've also got a torn diff bushing and I'm contemplating my options.

Yeah... Borla and Magnaflow are very misleading with some of their mufflers/resonators. Sadly I'm not in AZ but if you ever feel like shipping it, lmk. It's been a huge headache to try and find a true 3" that will fit the Mustang.

I'm looking to buy one and wanted to cut the 2.25" inlet and weld an extension to make it a true 3" but was wondering if you had to cut the whole inlet tube or just the 2.25" step down to make it 3".

I can pick it up, check your DMs

check your DMs!