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If it's still the old tune it 99.9% will not go into a ready state. I had the same problem before with my old 16 GT that was also lund tuned. I had to go back to stock (luckily only an intake) and flash back to stock to pass emissions.

Right for sure. Was just saying.

So they just gave you a new tune and you just flashed it? Then told you they will clear? If so then yes it takes about 50-100mi to get all monitors to be ready. There is a procedure out there to follow to get it to go green. Assuming lund have those o2 sensors turned on in the tune.

EVAP is 100% emissions equipment and should absolutely be covered. You should have no issues getting it covered. But I wouldn't assume yours is the exact same part/problem. The system has many parts to it which can and do fail. And most of them will all throw the same code.

If you haven't reflashed since last Aug lund is screwing you. They would have completed within 100mi after your last flash. There is going to be no way to fix this other than through lund or a new tune. Sorry to say.

I don't really find objects that impressive since the AI can more easily create these things as they are simple shapes really. But still kinda cool.

Fancy words? Ok kid I'm sorry I will use vocabulary that is much more on your obviously limited range of comprehension. And you're right I'm cheap as in I don't needlessly spend money on something that isn't required. I don't know how in your limited mind I am both cheap and broke but it's...

You can't even feel 5 HP. It may as well not exist. Now if you wanted to say you get 93 for efficiency reasons or better detergents in the gas I would agree. And marginally better knock resistance.

Filling up with 93 isn't elitist. But posting about how (and not saying you) if you're not using 93 you're doing it wrong (paraphrasing) is an elitist attitude. Show me a Dyno that results in anything greater than 3-5hp increase or excessive knock/timing being pulled by using 87. The elitism...

My message is the car runs fine on any grade that's standard in the US. And you said it yourself "for maximum engine performance". It's an intentionally vague term written for your average person. Ford isn't going to give themselves the headache of putting out a mass production car that won't...

Hmmm interesting. A factory flaw then I'm guessing. Could be an issue at the engine end/connection. Could be a bad sensor. It's under warranty so I wouldn't even worry.

Good for a performance v8 outputting 400+ hp and if you don't lead foot it everywhere.

It's not the 60s anymore you can have both. A GT gets pretty good highway MPG.

No idea I always doubt these claims. Over the years with new cars I've never felt a diff. I always drive new cars kinda a mix of hard and soft for the first few hundred to thousand miles to get a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls and to get it to break any defects ASAP. Really mine...

Hmmm haven't even looked under my hood yet good to know I can just add a tower brace without having to undo strut nuts. Something I want to do.

Bad gas cap, or a leak somewhere between the fill port and the EVAP charcoal canister. Usually it's like the other guy said bad hose or the canister itself. Usually goes bad from overfilling the gas. Do you go one more click on the gas nozzle when filling?

I guess this is good as any thread for my first post and also why I signed up after reading some very uninformed opinions stated here. But GT all the way. I've owned an 03 3.8 with an Eaton slapped on, a 12 v6, and a 16 GT. Now a 23 GT. There is literally no replacement for displacement...