Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[grumblin]

For solder-phobics like me, i'm going to try something a little different for attaching the wires to the molex connectors. I'm going to try two separate methods:

1) I ordered a simple 2x8 IDC female/female ribbon cable as a wire break-out for the line-outs. I'm going to see if I can get it in the body on the headers.

2) I also ordered one of these: https://www.adafruit.com/products/266 - it's looks easier to use as a breakout for the RCA's but the single connectors could cause it to come apart easier.

Neither will work for the speaker connectors as the wires are much too small - but dang, trying to fit AWG16 wire on those pins is a bear.

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[nanotech]

So i took my door panel off and went on a measuring spree:

Front 6.5" Speaker
Mounting hole: 5.75" diameter
Spacer: 1" depth + .25" foam
Speaker with spacer: 2.75" depth
Stock Magnet: 2 7/8" width
Mounting Depth: 5.5"

Window rolled all the way down:
Depth partially reduced to 2.75"
Window protrusion in mounting hole: 1" of the 5.75" diameter

Front 3.5" Midrange
Mounting Hole: 3" diameter
Spacer: 1" depth + .25" foam
Mounting Depth: 1.25"
Stock Magnet: 1 1/8" width

Is the midrange mounting hole diameter you measured representative of the one in the door or the one in the plastic adapter piece that the oem driver fits into?

 

[ForTehNguyen]

Is the midrange mounting hole diameter you measured representative of the one in the door or the one in the plastic adapter piece that the oem driver fits into?

all hole diameters I measured are in the door metal itself. Didnt bother measuring spacer since I was chucking those and getting my own. The midrange speaker has the most restrictive fitment. Pay very close attention to speaker dimensions for the midrange when shopping around.

 

[grumblin]

Did anyone figure out how the Subwoofer get's its signal? Or where the wiring comes from?

I am thinking about bypassing the main speaker amp and I'd like to preserve the factory subwoofer.

Looking at the Motorcraft Service manual subscription that I have, it appears that there are no line-level outs from the head unit. The subwoofer signal is not fed into the amp, but it is fed OUT of the amp back to the subwoofer/amp combo.

In other words, the signal looks to be a summed signal from the HU inputs, which is done in the factory amp. If you bypass the factory amp, you don't get the sub signal.

 

[kallo07]

Just bought a factory sub, will not work on my 9 speaker setup. Missing factory connector. Had the original owner send a pic of his car 12 speaker setup and he has the harness while on my car it is missing.

Eddie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Alloy]

From where did you purchase? Price?

 

[Butter77]

Would anyone be able to add pictures of the connectors to the factory shaker amp that show the wire colors and orientation? These could be extremely beneficial to those looking to build the harnesses before hand and save some valuable time.

 

[BrantMcE]

Would anyone be able to add pictures of the connectors to the factory shaker amp that show the wire colors and orientation? These could be extremely beneficial to those looking to build the harnesses before hand and save some valuable time.

Should be able to pre build the harness using the wiring diagram on the first page since the wire colors and their corresponding pins are listed on the diagram. If that makes sense. Unless I'm missing something.

 

[grumblin]

Would anyone be able to add pictures of the connectors to the factory shaker amp that show the wire colors and orientation? These could be extremely beneficial to those looking to build the harnesses before hand and save some valuable time.

Here they are. PLEASE note that the connectors are labeled differently than on the first page of this thread. This information may be specific to my VIN w/401a package, but they are 100% accurate.
2nd Note: The pin outs are identical to those on the first page, but the CONNECTOR NAMES/NUMBERS differ.

 

[grumblin]

Also note that on C2385C, the PIN#1 - Audio Enable is exactly that - however it is a 6V enable signal. You will need a PAC TR-4 (basically a relay in a box) to translate that to a 12V remote trigger. The PAC TR-4 has 4 inputs - Ground (self explanatory), Trigger in (the 6V signal), +12V constant (where it gets the 12v) and the switched 12V out (this becomes your "Remote Enable Output."

 

[grumblin]

And for the subwoofer as requested:

 

[grumblin]

Anyone else have and ungodly amount of resonance in their doors from 85Hz to 160Hz? Man I do. I'll be pulling the front stage this coming weekend to try and correct it. I mean when running a 100Hz test tone, the doors want to vibrate off - so bad you can't even hear the tone itself. Even at low volumes. Dynamat, MDF and foam to the rescue...

Oh and the Alpine SPR-60c's are coming out - and Hertz HSK 163 3-ways are going in

 

[Ericc B]

Mouser has sent me a notification of a slight change in the design of two of the connectors that are mentioned here:

http://www.mouser.com/PCN/Molex_10695148.pdf

 

[rigrage]

I was able to disable the noise cancellation feature in my 2015 Ecoboost Premium with the help of smdandb2. I installed aftermarket subs and the low frequency signals being sent out by the noise cancellation system was making obnoxious feedback loops.

As per his suggestion, the headliner by the rear window is secured by magnets, gently pulling down on the headliner from the rear will allow you to access the mic and disconnect it from the system. This will effectively disable the noise cancellation. Hope this helps anyone looking for an easy fix to disabling this feature.

 

[Redcruzer]

I went to my local Ford parts department today and discovered that the Shaker Pro main amp in the 2016 is different then the 2015 model. Hmmm. Also looks to be mounted behind the dash rather then the drivers kick panel judging from what we could see from the parts guide. The 2016 has different mounting bracket.

I bring this up because I'm convinced that the amp is the component causing my muddy sound issue.

I may order both a 15 and a 16 and see if the 2016 is compatible with the 2015 system.
New 2015 amp Is $255.

I can't recall anyone with a 2016 Shaker Pro having issues. Maybe I missed it.

Chris

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