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New cold air kit from PMAS No tune required.

MrWolf

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Really very interested to hear how this turns out and the new dyno results.

Thanks for doing this and sharing.
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Ok, so instead of reading through 40 pages I am just going to ask. Does the PMAS intake get rid of the "ram air" tube piece that connects to the front of the grill that the stock air box has?
 

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Ok, so instead of reading through 40 pages I am just going to ask. Does the PMAS intake get rid of the "ram air" tube piece that connects to the front of the grill that the stock air box has?
Yes.

PMAS says in a post waaaaay back that he was seeing the rubber section of the factory piece collapsing at full throttle and restricting the intake. He suggested everyone remove that bit at least even if sticking with the factory intake.
 

Tim Hilliard

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Yes.

PMAS says in a post waaaaay back that he was seeing the rubber section of the factory piece collapsing at full throttle and restricting the intake. He suggested everyone remove that bit at least even if sticking with the factory intake.
Ok, so instead of reading through 40 pages I am just going to ask. Does the PMAS intake get rid of the "ram air" tube piece that connects to the front of the grill that the stock air box has?
I can tell you that the opening is large on the heat shield and is directly inline with the opening. Also unlike competitive units this one is much higher on the leading edge, seals to the hood so all the air through the grill opening is getting rammed into the intake without any physical pipe. Path of least resistance, under full throttle I suspect this massive MAF is making a slightly negative pressure which cold air is more than happy to fill.
 

gtmiller1001

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Easy enough request, ill post peak timing recorded for each run and I'll overlay highest readings from both setups, none of that shady lowest stock part vs highest (insert part here) bull crap
Honestly I'd just get the Winpep (dyno) files and the program to view them is free online:

http://www.dynojet.com/Downloads/Downloads.aspx?ProdType=Dyno-Software-Firmware-Other

Have your dyno shop email the files to you or save them on a thumb drive, then you can display them however you want.

I'm assuming you'll be datalogging the pulls? I'd be curious to see the difference in key PID's on the logs too if you can provide.

It would be nice to see the A/F of the pulls between intakes as well as s/l term fueling. I have yet to understand how a maf signal is maintaining A/F if the calculation is based on -28F. I am also confused why my PID shows IAT and Ambient Air Temp and after removing the intake and going back to stock my Ambient Air read -F's for a few driving cycles until it returned to normal. My ambient temp on my radio displayed normal all the time but IAT was negative. I'm a little lost on how its able to run with false temps.

What I have gathered from Ford is ECT, IAT and AAT should all read roughly with in 30F on a stone cold car.

You appear to have more experience with this, do you have anything to add?

If anyone has an IAT file that works could send it to me that would be great :)
I think desired lambda/AFR are almost all dictated by the wideband O2 sensors. Knock sensors affect timing. Those two things are basically the most vital stats on a healthy engine so I don't think even running an incorrect IAT signal to the computer would necessarily grenade the motor (not necessarily directed at you, just a general statement).

As long as your widebands and knock sensors are on and functioning correctly the computer should easily be able to adjust.
 

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sandeale

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The above statement is true, the car will do what it takes to meet the commanded lambda target, my previous dyno had fuel trims that were calling for +12 but the actual versus commanded lambda remained consistent

the fuel trim deviation was because i was running the wrong maf file, that has been corrected, no fault of the intake
 

Tim Hilliard

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I think desired lambda/AFR are almost all dictated by the wideband O2 sensors. Knock sensors affect timing. Those two things are basically the most vital stats on a healthy engine so I don't think even running an incorrect IAT signal to the computer would necessarily grenade the motor (not necessarily directed at you, just a general statement).

As long as your widebands and knock sensors are on and functioning correctly the computer should easily be able to adjust.
Well I figured it was using the O2 for correction thats why I was curious about fuel trimming. My experience is non OBD so the MAF, if one was used was the a/f control open loop. The only issue I had was long crank I assume because it was pig rich at -28F. I also don't clear my KAM so it was operating off of old learned data. I know my car pulled like a freight train on the top end and never a hint issues. I plan on trying it again and will log fuel trimming before and after as well as timing to see for my self
 

Tim Hilliard

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And I thank you Alex :cheers:
 

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Yeah most of your newer wideband equipped cars operate primarily in closed loop using the maf and other sensors to know what table to access.

And the IAT being off will cause your car to run like complete crap, not only during idle, open loop, but throughout the rev range, closed loop, as it is basing its strategy off the referenced temperature

no problem at all!!! hopefully those work out for you, and do a kam reset this time, the crap this ecu holds on to is rediculous
 

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Well I figured it was using the O2 for correction thats why I was curious about fuel trimming. My experience is non OBD so the MAF, if one was used was the a/f control open loop. The only issue I had was long crank I assume because it was pig rich at -28F. I also don't clear my KAM so it was operating off of old learned data. I know my car pulled like a freight train on the top end and never a hint issues. I plan on trying it again and will log fuel trimming before and after as well as timing to see for my self
Yeah AFR should be relying on the front wideband 02's.

I can't remember, are you tuned? Either way (and you probably know this already) if you're running a lambda of .85 at WOT you're golden.
 

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Tim Hilliard

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Well if I wasn't stuck in this godforsaken place waiting for an f-ing o-ring and gasket to be driven up to me I would have been home to try it :frusty:
20150708_170545.jpg
 

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well dammit all, but somethings got to pay for the mods.....feel free to hit me up anytime I'm currently in school in alabama so i'm an hour behind you and im usually up till about 12 local, so 1am eastcoast. I'm subscribed to this thread so i try to reply pretty quick..trying to keep the momentum going in this thread.
 

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Well ive finally read the entire thread. Wow is all i can say. I still fully intend to use this intake. I hope nick follows through with the comment of making it adaptable for superchargers. Because i have full plans for a jtb-b supercharger. So i hope he makes it work for the centerfugal guys. im going to need this intake to make the car more fun while i build the suspension, trans and motor up. itll be the best bonus if i can use it later too.
 

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alright, color me completely frustrated at this point.

installed again with the new harness that was overnighted. fired it up, immediate rough idle, smell of fuel, CEL, and all the warnings come on again (advancetrac, hill assist, etc). the newest thing now is that neither IAT nor oil temps are displaying - that didn't happen before. yes, everything is connected, i didn't forget anything :)

flashed the NEW harness per the described method afterwards, same thing.

i'm about to tap out guys. calling nick in the morning in a last ditch effort to troubleshoot. if we don't get connected, i'll be initiating a chargeback; i've still not had one email or phone call returned since i received my intake on 6/25 :(

it really sucks because i'm sure i'm giving up HP, and that makes me sad, especially since i need every advantage i can get in competition.
 

Tim Hilliard

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That's weird. Did you try just plugging the harness in as shipped?
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