Mustang gt Roush Phase 2 Cooling System

[Signed5.0]

Hey Guys,

First-time poster, having trouble finding any detailed information regarding troubleshooting a phase 2 intercooler system from Roush, probably because it is only a couple years old and everyone likes to go whipple.

Background of the car: Had a Roush phase 2 kit installed at a dealer in Texas ~ 3.5 years ago.

I have owned the car since March of this year, I seemed to start having trouble with the car cutting throttle, timing, and/or boost during the summer. Finally got the car tuned by PBD figuring that would fix the issue, not so much. I knew I had a cooling issue at that point but wasn't sure what from. Finally was able to work VCM Scanner and add an IAT2 pid to the tool. After cruising and doing a 80mph pull and the car losing power, the iat2 was reaching temps of 180+ (190 peak).

After that I was able to go home and immediately take the cap off the overflow tank and the coolant was reading around 115 and not flowing. I thought I could feel my pump was on and running but wasn't sure. The next day I have time to work on the vehicle, get the passenger side front end apart and the Pump wasn't vibrating like I thought it was the day before even after getting the car to operating temp. Tore everything down to check for any clogs.

Was having to vacuum out the remaining coolant between the pump and the coolant overflow. Wasn't sure if that was normal either due to it looking like gravity should have self bled the system. After a minute or so of letting it drain, I can now feel vacuum through the hoses. I'm really hoping this isn't an electrical issue as that is my last resort.

If anyone has been through something similar, I would appreciate any help, or any information on if you had an "side-effects" of the car running that hot for long periods of time. Currently waiting to get a new pump to test if that is the problem but that will be about 3-4 weeks out due to budgeting. No idea how to test the current pump to see if it's operational.

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[Cory S]

With the ignition on, the pump should have power. If it has power, it should be circulating fluid. Look into the degas tank and there should be some turbulence.

 

[Signed5.0]

With the ignition on, the pump should have power. If it has power, it should be circulating fluid. Look into the degas tank and there should be some turbulence.

No turbulence, I thought pump was vibrating at one point, but may be misremembering, and there still being no turbulence. Going to check my Relays tomorrow.

 

[Signed5.0]

No turbulence, I thought pump was vibrating at one point, but may be misremembering, and there still being no turbulence. Going to check my Relays tomorrow.

Relay was solid, getting 12v to pump connector when accessory power is on, looks like a bad Bosch pump (part number 0392024058) 3 year total life, will update this post once replacement is installed and running.

 

[jon.smith76063]

Relay was solid, getting 12v to pump connector when accessory power is on, looks like a bad Bosch pump (part number 0392024058) 3 year total life, will update this post once replacement is installed and running.

Are you going with a stock replacement or an upgrade for more flow?

 

[Signed5.0]

Are you going with a stock replacement or an upgrade for more flow?

Stock replacement, I've found a video online of it running and it seems to give quite a bit of flow.

From what I've seen, with the Roush cooling, pushing more gph/lph isn't going to help the cooling. As soon as I can I'll be upgrading my intercooler to a triple bypass VMPP intercooler and/or going with a killer chiller, I want to avoid going with an icetank as this car is a "work car" and does 20-25k miles a year and I do not go drag racing. Only rolls on the weekend.

 

[Cory S]

If it’s mostly just a cruiser, no need for a killer chiller or triple pass (not proved to be any better than a large single pass).
Just put a Dept of Boost Super Single heat exchanger in, replace your pump and call it a day.

 

[Signed5.0]

If it’s mostly just a cruiser, no need for a killer chiller or triple pass (not proved to be any better than a large single pass).
Just put a Dept of Boost Super Single heat exchanger in, replace your pump and call it a day.

I'll take a look at it. Thanks bro.

 

[WOTPULLS]

No turbulence, I thought pump was vibrating at one point, but may be misremembering, and there still being no turbulence. Going to check my Relays tomorrow.

the 2018+ kits you will not see flow in the degas bottle with the pump running. 2015 kits use a "flow through" bottle design where 2018+ does not. you need to grab one of the hoses underneath it and pinch it off, forcing it to go into the degas bottle, normally the water flows "under" it and any air rises to the bottle itself.

if you pinch off the hose that is parallel to the bottle right near your radiator fans, you should see flow in the bottle, if not then the pump isnt running.

The pump itself will run a priming operation when first turned on to check for air, its 3 very short pules of flow, if air is detected, the pump will shut off to protect itself. you may need to cycle the pump a few times, or use a vacuum bleeder to get all the air out.

 

[Signed5.0]

Well, no such luck today. I'm starting to be at my wit's end regarding this problem.

Got my new pump in today, a direct replacement Bosch 0392024058. Plugged it in, no power, went ahead and refilled the cooling system and ran it around for a couple of miles several times to get all the air out, but still no such luck, iat2 still 180+.

Wiggled any hose I could find to help air escape, the intercooler hoses, and the pump hose connected to the coolant reservoir by the washer fluid, but nothing. No leaks which I guess is good.

Double-checked, triple-checked voltage, 0v off, 12v on. I re-pinned the plug several times to make sure it was correct, but nothing. I even took out the pins and placed them on the pump directly, but nothing once again.

Unless I am extremely unlucky and got a dead-on-arrival Bosch pump, I'm out of ideas. As much as I love working on cars, this one has thrown me for a loop. If anyone has any insight, I would be more than happy to listen.

Most shops in OKC are 2months out for vehicle work so I'm afraid having a shop look at it may be my last resort as I do not want to wait that long.

 

[Glenn]

I am having the same problem, you are having bought the car in Chicago live in St. Louis dealer installed ROUSH stage 1 ! Didnt know what to do, so I installed a 160 degree thermostat and the Max cooling kit from ROUSH.
NOTE to you : never drive the car that much, it's three years old with 5k miles (two long trips).
I think the water pump has never worked.

 

[Signed5.0]

I am having the same problem, you are having bought the car in Chicago live in St. Louis dealer installed ROUSH stage 1 ! Didnt know what to do, so I installed a 160 degree thermostat and the Max cooling kit from ROUSH.
NOTE to you : never drive the car that much, it's three years old with 5k miles (two long trips).
I think the water pump has never worked.

I don’t think mine has worked since I’ve owned the car which has been about 6 months. My next step is to order a different pump.

 

[Grimreaper]

Well, no such luck today. I'm starting to be at my wit's end regarding this problem.

Got my new pump in today, a direct replacement Bosch 0392024058. Plugged it in, no power, went ahead and refilled the cooling system and ran it around for a couple of miles several times to get all the air out, but still no such luck, iat2 still 180+.

Wiggled any hose I could find to help air escape, the intercooler hoses, and the pump hose connected to the coolant reservoir by the washer fluid, but nothing. No leaks which I guess is good.

Double-checked, triple-checked voltage, 0v off, 12v on. I re-pinned the plug several times to make sure it was correct, but nothing. I even took out the pins and placed them on the pump directly, but nothing once again.

Unless I am extremely unlucky and got a dead-on-arrival Bosch pump, I'm out of ideas. As much as I love working on cars, this one has thrown me for a loop. If anyone has any insight, I would be more than happy to listen.

Most shops in OKC are 2months out for vehicle work so I'm afraid having a shop look at it may be my last resort as I do not want to wait that long.

I'd check those pumps directly off the battery. Careful with the wiring so it doesn't short. The Bosch pump is somewhat loud. Engine off there's no mistaking its on.

Your voltage measurements are at the pump connector key on then off correct? What plug were you repinning? There's an inline fuse too. That good?

Left the cover off the fuse box, which post is the o ring for the relay connected to?

Next is voltage drop test. Voltage is potential but there has to be enough current flow for things to work. Pump only draws a few amps but a nearly severed wire may not allow the pump to start. Highest load at start up. So 12v can be misleading.

 

[Signed5.0]

I'd check those pumps directly off the battery. Careful with the wiring so it doesn't short. The Bosch pump is somewhat loud. Engine off there's no mistaking its on.

Your voltage measurements are at the pump connector key on then off correct? What plug were you repinning? There's an inline fuse too. That good?

Left the cover off the fuse box, which post is the o ring for the relay connected to?

Next is voltage drop test. Voltage is potential but there has to be enough current flow for things to work. Pump only draws a few amps but a nearly severed wire may not allow the pump to start. Highest load at start up. So 12v can be misleading.

Preoccupied this weekend but will check all of these next week.
Voltage tests are at the plug going into the pump.

 

[Signed5.0]

Wanted to give everyone an update.

I double checked everything again, everything looked to be installed correctly and looked to be in good condition. I jumped the old pump from the battery and it powered on so instantly knew it was an electrical issue.

I went ahead and replaced the relay because I know that those can go bad and that ended up being my issue as well. It looked to be that the relay would switch on/off with power but couldn't hold the amperage required for the pump. So, even if your relay is switching on/off correctly and looks to be good, go ahead and replace it, most likely will be your issue.

So, now the problem is fixed. I have a spare coolant pump now for absolutely no reason which is fine. FYI for anyone curious, the VMP upgraded pump is the exact same pump put into the phase 2 Roush kits for 18+. You can find them cheaper than VMP.

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