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MT-82 or clutch issue

5.0carlo

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So I think my MT-82 broke today or my clutch. I had a friend in the car and we’re doing some spirited driving. However we were dumping the clutch or anything. 2nd pull and the shifter won’t go in any gears and the clutch pedal is near the floor. We get it back to friends house. With the car off it goes into gear no issues. No fluid on the ground, no squeaking or chirping. The reservoir is still full of fluid. After messing with it I find out I can get it into gear and switch gears but it’s hard. So I drive it home like that (54 miles). Dumb I know but unfortunately needed.

So as long as I’m driving it’s slightly easier to switch gears but still needed force and the pedal is still close to the floor. About 2 miles from my house and I notice the trans actually shifts like normal however I have to rev the car higher to get it to move like a clutch slipping. AND if I rev it too high it starts to chatter but it’s a feeling and not a noise if that makes sense.

So I’m already looking at clutches and slave cylinders. I’m assuming it’s a Clutch at a minimum.

Now I have an extended warranty on the car and I just bought it in December. My issue is do I get it fixed by then possibly with the same weak parts? Or fund it myself and upgrade?

Backstory on car
2015 GT
6 speed, stock except catback
66,000 miles

What are some decent clutches? I don’t have twin disc money. I’ve read somewhere that aftermarket slave cylinders are garbage.
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Vlad Soare

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The pedal sitting close to the floor makes me suspect the master cylinder.
Anyway, it's definitely a clutch-related issue. It's not the gearbox.
 
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5.0carlo

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Is there anyway to test or eliminate the master cylinder? Either way I’m pretty sure after the drive home the clutch is toast.
 

ice445

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Is there anyway to test or eliminate the master cylinder? Either way I’m pretty sure after the drive home the clutch is toast.
If the master was bad you'd probably have braking issues as well, since it feeds the slave (which is inside the bellhousing naturally). I guess you could check the fluid level and the line between the two (it's known to be practically falling off even on new cars). If the OEM clutch lasted 66K, just get another OEM one and slap it in there if you're stock power. They're not too expensive. Given the work to even find out what's wrong when it's an internal problem, not replacing the clutch would be silly.
 

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bnightstar

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What are some decent clutches? I don’t have twin disc money. I’ve read somewhere that aftermarket slave cylinders are garbage.
Welcome to my club. It's a clutch/through out bearing issue. Mine is doing the same hard sometime to engage in stop/go traffic pedal down sometimes even on start-up, and air in lines. I'm changing my clutch soon just ordered Exedy Mach 500 which is supposed to work with the OEM Flywheel. I will get Ford through out bearing and hopefully this will solve my issues. From what I have read this is a very common problem also if it's in warranty and you will not pay for the clutch (though usually this is not covered) you can go with OEM one. But honestly if it's your hard earned money I would not buy that POS from Turkey again that Ford is calling a clutch for a performance car. I bought Exedy because I wanted 1 peace clutch because I track my car and this is is better for the road course. However you can go with McLeod but get the RXT as it's supposed to be better than the RST. With that in mind almost all aftermarket is better than the OEM so you can't go wrong with Aftermarket Clutch. Good luck with fixing your baby.
 

Vlad Soare

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If the master was bad you'd probably have braking issues as well, since it feeds the slave (which is inside the bellhousing naturally).
The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir, but not the same master cylinder. The brakes won't be affected by a clutch master cylinder failure.
 

CatalleyaS550

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Sounds like the cylinder same thing happened to mine not to long ago. Car would go in gear only when its off. Replaced everything clutch - RXT, slave cylinder, braided line, and some other stuff.
 

bnightstar

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The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir, but not the same master cylinder. The brakes won't be affected by a clutch master cylinder failure.
Technically not exactly because it will add air to brakes which can and will affect braking it's a closed system for a reason. Which mean that is very dangerous to drive like that.
 

CatalleyaS550

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Adding on to what I said earlier this what the shop found lol. I guessI needed a clutch. Again I changed the slave cylinder, pilot bearing, installed braided clutch line, and rxtto prepare for boost later down the line.
 

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MyStang

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High RPM shift never ends well on a stock clutch.
IMG_1837.jpg
 

bnightstar

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MyStang

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Hope that it didn't take the trans with it ?
Trans was fine, pride was hurt more because I know better.
This was my choice and couldn't be happier.
IMG_1868.jpg
 
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5.0carlo

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So it’s been a few days and the car has been parked on a slight incline. When I parked it I also took the cap off the MC to possibly let any air out.

First thing I checked was for leaks. There are zero on the ground under the car and I didn’t see any leaking from the clutch master inside the car and the level in the Master cylinder is the same. However my clutch pedal is now in the normal position And not low. It feels normal.

Also shifting through the gears with the car on or off feels the same
And it goes into every gear. However if you go to drive the car you have Rev it high in order for it to move. I’m guessing it’s a clutch and slave since I still have hood pedal feel and it goes through the gears.

Now it’s just the fact of choosing a clutch. It’s a cruiser/daily so a twin disk is out of the Picture. I’d also like something that I can use the stock ford flywheel with. I’m going to use the stock ford Slave cylinder and TOB.
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