extra cooling: most bang for the buck? What temp gauge to look at?

[Michael_vroomvroom]

There's some excellent cooling threads here, but I'm unsure about what's the most "bang for the buck" to start with, and what datametric gives the best indication on when I'm nearing an overheat situation?

On my first track day, I did not have any issues. On my second track day, last week and with slightly cooler ambient temperatures, after the first 15 minutes or so, the car would not go past around 6,100 RPM. I did not see any previous warnings, just suddenly would not go past 6,100. If I tried to push it past 6,100, I got a message about limiting power due to engine heat (or something a long the lines). At that point I was for the first time able to not be completely outrun by another guy in what looked like a daily driver (a BMW M4 competition I think), though I had a hard time at it, and even if the overheat limiter had not kicked in, I would have backed out soon anyway.

I did a couple of cool-down laps and parked the car for 15-20 minutes, and continued without problems for the rest of the day, probably due to changing my driving style to instead of pushing the car, trying to be "smooth" around the track, and only pushing when somebody passed me to see how long I could keep up. With a few exceptions, I could not keep up to anyone for more than half a mile or less before they were hopelessly ahead, at which point I reverted back to trying to be smooth, and had no problems the rest of the day driving like that. At my level, I'm still fine with this and it did not take away anything from me, but I hope to continue improving and be able to push harder.


I have some not yet installed heathshield foil (from the Heatshield Products company) that I'll try to wrap around the exhaust pipes to shield the differential cooler from some heat. A non-expensive solution that I'm hoping will give some relief.
If I knew what data (either from a built-in gauge, or something the OBD-reader can display), I'd probably go to the track without the heatshield foil again next time, just so that I can later install the heatshield and have something to compare with, to see if it helps or not.

I'm not sure what gauges to look at for an indication of whether I'm approaching an overheat situation? I tried looking at the oil temp gauge once the car already had overheating problems, but not sure if that's the best indicator. My car is the (EU) base model, and I have an OBD-reader too now. What should I be looking at?

What are other non-expensive things, that are also not too difficult to install, that give a reasonable return of investment/work for an amateur?

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[AlbertD]

For data collection/analysis I would recommend a set of aftermarket gauges to give you engine, trans, and diff oil temps. The factory oil temp meter gives a rough ballpark estimate, but I haven't found it to be accurate in comparison to my dedicated oil temp sensor. The cylinder head temp (CHT) reading on the factory display may be the most valuable thing to look at... once you approach the 240s it is probably best to let it cooldown for a lap or two.

For cooling... the best bang for the buck would be to box in the radiator so that no air escapes around the sides of it. Just need some flat sheets of HVAC or aluminum, foil tape and some time to get it all fitted, cut, and taped. That combined with a good center hood vent (check out Racelouvers.com) should dramatically increase the car's ability to shed engine heat. The diff will get hot if running the car for extended periods of time with limited rest in between sessions. An easy fix that helps a bit is to wrap the exhaust with heat wrap and upgrade the diff fluid... outside of that, the next option is to add a diff cooling system.

 

[bnightstar]

Will the GT350 diff cooler work on a GT and if so is there a guide howto make it work :?

 

[Ewheels]

Will the GT350 diff cooler work on a GT and if so is there a guide howto make it work :?

You'd need the 350 rear bumper / diffuser too but theoretically you could make it work. That Ford part is too expensive though, there are MUCH cheaper options out there

 

[AlbertD]

This is the only "out of the box" solution for S550 diff cooling that I am aware of... pricey, but seems to be well made: http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/S550_diff_cooler_kit.html

 

[triox]

I've had a similar issue as OP on the track - loss of power around 6500 RPM after a few flying laps. The way I deal with it is I usually just back off and coast to the next lap. Also a cooling lap every 3 or 4 laps is enough to not run into the problem during the session.
Lately I've been told that the problem is caused not directly by high temps, but rather by a faulty GPF sensor, though I haven't confirmed this with Ford.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

This is the only "out of the box" solution for S550 diff cooling that I am aware of... pricey, but seems to be well made: http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/S550_diff_cooler_kit.html

Double pricey: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-4000-m8s.html

Waaay out of my price range, and I'd feel mighty silly having an expensive kit like that and still being the slowest guy in class.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

I've had a similar issue as OP on the track - loss of power around 6500 RPM after a few flying laps. The way I deal with it is I usually just back off and coast to the next lap. Also a cooling lap every 3 or 4 laps is enough to not run into the problem during the session.
Lately I've been told that the problem is caused not directly by high temps, but rather by a faulty GPF sensor, though I haven't confirmed this with Ford.

That would be nice if true, but I don't see how a faulty GPF sensor could lead to problems like this, and from what I could quickly google, US Mustangs don't even have a GPF.

 

[AlbertD]

Double pricey: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-4000-m8s.html

Waaay out of my price range, and I'd feel mighty silly having an expensive kit like that and still being the slowest guy in class.

Another problem aside from the price with that kit, is that in order to really get the most out of it you would probably need the gt350 rear bumper and diffuser to get airflow into that radiator.

 

[bnightstar]

That would be nice if true, but I don't see how a faulty GPF sensor could lead to problems like this, and from what I could quickly google, US Mustangs don't even have a GPF.

The US Mustangs don't have GPF. And I highly doubt the GPF is the reason for your problems as this is clearly the Diff overheating.

Ways to solve that:

1. Change diff fluid with something like 70W140 lot's of topics on the forum with the exact name of the fluid to use.
2. Add motorcycle heat shields to the exhaust pipes around the diff.
3. FT Diff Cooler

Mine is EU spec 2017 and I never had Diff temp issues though and I drive in over 30 degree celsius track days last 2 times out.

Hope this helps.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

The US Mustangs don't have GPF. And I highly doubt the GPF is the reason for your problems as this is clearly the Diff overheating.

Ways to solve that:

1. Change diff fluid with something like 70W140 lot's of topics on the forum with the exact name of the fluid to use.
2. Add motorcycle heat shields to the exhaust pipes around the diff.
3. FT Diff Cooler

Mine is EU spec 2017 and I never had Diff temp issues though and I drive in over 30 degree celsius track days last 2 times out.

Hope this helps.

You never had after you added some of the things you listed, or not even before?

I have a heatshield roll waiting for me to install it, but at my level I'm still fine with just the occasional "hard" lap (or half-lap) on the track, so on my third trackday at the end of the month I plan to not do any changes, except set up datalogging via the odb port to get a baseline to compare against. Then I plan to do things in this order, one at a time before each track day and see I can figure out enough from the datalog to get a decent indication of what the effect, if any is:

1) DEI RAD RELIEF (Not sure if that will help any or not. Probably not if the main problem is the differential, but seems to have decent reviews and since I'm ordering the jacking rails from Steeda anyway, adding this to the order is cheap enough to try and see). Will also give me some experience with datalogging before step two, which I'm more optimistic about having an effect.

2) Heatshield.

3) Change the diff fluid?

 

[bnightstar]

You never had after you added some of the things you listed, or not even before?

I only changed my diff fluid. But never experienced Diff temp issues maybe I'm slow who knows but overall never had issues with diff temps hanse never addressed it. Have more issues with tire and brake temperatures.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

I only changed my diff fluid. But never experienced Diff temp issues maybe I'm slow who knows but overall never had issues with diff temps hanse never addressed it. Have more issues with tire and brake temperatures.

I'm the slowest guy on my track, so doubt that's the reason, but maybe I use more engine braking, and less brakes than you, so I also get other problems first?

I've only had two track days so far, but I did have an initial session with the track owner (former racer, and also former race team owner or manager I believe. Seemed quite competent anyway), who told me that his track "is heavy on the brakes, and my car is heavy too", so to save my brakes from overheating I should try to use more engine braking.

 

[fatbillybob]

Will the GT350 diff cooler work on a GT and if so is there a guide howto make it work :?

By coincidence I used the the A10 tranny cooler repurposed it to the diff cooler. found out it looks just like the factory 350gt setup. What i do not understand is why all the good diff cooler kits are using a new read diff cover? That right there 2x the cost. I have cold fluid in the fill hole and hot fluid out the drain hole. It is always done that way. Then your costs are a cooler, lines, pump. I'm a racecar so I repurposed the rear defroster wiring at the rear glass and just push the defrost button on the IP to turn the diff cooler on.

 

[boardkat]

By coincidence I used the the A10 tranny cooler repurposed it to the diff cooler. found out it looks just like the factory 350gt setup. What i do not understand is why all the good diff cooler kits are using a new read diff cover? That right there 2x the cost. I have cold fluid in the fill hole and hot fluid out the drain hole. It is always done that way. Then your costs are a cooler, lines, pump. I'm a racecar so I repurposed the rear defroster wiring at the rear glass and just push the defrost button on the IP to turn the diff cooler on.

that statement is a tad... hyperbolic
all the diff covers i've picked up from WBL over the years (15, 16, 17) were ~$60

also the reason FTBR is including a cover is because of thermostatic control - you need to drill/tap a hole for the sensor (or a 2nd one if you have a newer model with a diff temp sensor from the factory). obviously this is trivial for DIY'ers like us, but the majority will pay a premium for a bolt-on kit.

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