BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

[Elp_jc]

2020 GT PP1 Mt82 car. Driver side nut, I popped it loose with literally no effort.

Damn, so that means we ALL need to check them, no? I don't want to loosen them up if not needed, so is 150 ft/lbs a good setting to see if the torque wrench clicks there, or should be try something less, like 120? And if it clicks, just mark the nut and axle for future reference.

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[moffetts]

I'm not aware of any physical changes to the nuts, the hubs, or the halfshafts that would have addressed this problem, so yes, I would still be watching it even if my car was brand new. Personally, I am doing 250 ft/lbs plus red loctite and it is working well, but I am also replacing my hubs and nuts whenever it is convenient.

 

[moffetts]

At this point, I have given up finding the “correct” value. 250 and loctite means they’re never loose when I go to take them off.

 

[boB]

"Ford starts the bidding at 85 + 30 degrees, do we have 100?

120! Do I hear 150? 150...?

Yes, we have 150, thank you sir. 150 going once...

Oh, we have 250!!! Yes, 250!

Can I get 500?"

 

[KellTrac]

Is this thread amazing is!

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Mine is a lot more than noise. Pulls right under accel and back left under engine braking. With the torsen, if there's any difference in friction or wheel speed, it'll bias torque.

False alarm...not wheel bearing at all. Issue was something else.

 

[moffetts]

What was the culprit?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

What was the culprit?

Loose outer toe link bolt. Was probably about a turn backed off from torqued.

 

[NIXPP2]

Smashed a curb and broke my PP2 wheel, ruined the bearing too. Swapped both hubs for Ford Performance hubs and referred to this thread for the install. I never connected this thread, however, to the on/off throttle low speed tick I had at low speeds and especially parking lot driving. Installed the new nuts that came when the hubs, sound is gone. I had the dealer replace not only the driveshaft, but the clutch. And the tranny. Noise of course, was still there (but the clutch and transmission felt much better for some reason). Go figure.

 

[OrangeFury1]

Also changed the nut!

Is this the nut part number? What year is your car? Mine is a 2018 and it looks just like your new one.

 

[moffetts]

Yep, that's the one.

 

[Blufc3s]

Is this the nut part number? What year is your car? Mine is a 2018 and it looks just like your new one.

Yes, I bought them from the Ford dealer. My car is a 2015.

 

[Jetset335]

After 18months and $$$$ Ive finally solved my DS clicking issue.

Heres what we replaced:

- Wheel bearings 3 times
- Driveshafts (upgraded to GT350)
- Nuts (twice)
- Diff carrier bearings
- Greased / checked / loosened and refit everything multiple times.

I eventually found a great shop, who on describing the problem said he once had something similar with a Camaro. He immediately went to these, ordered new ones and voila, problem solved.

Significantly, he said that the new items from Ford were significantly thicker and look to have been redesigned.

So, finally done with this issue!!

Has the noise returned? Does anyone know the part# or correct name for this washer/friction lock? My drivers rear wheel is making the same noise again. I ordered a new wheel bearing and spindle nut and plan on replacing them this weekend.

 

[moffetts]

I've never seen that part in any parts diagram and it doesn't come with the GT350 axles. I don't remember it even being there from the factory.

 

[Jetset335]

I couldn't find it either. Do you think it could be the inside seal of the wheel bearing?

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