Oil drain plug keeps spinning...

[GPGT17]

2017 GT PP. did my oil change. The drain plug was so tight I had to use my extended wrench to get enough leverage to break it loose. When u went to screw the plug back in. It got tight then just kept spinning. I tried to back it out, and it just spins. Now I’m like shit! I fill a little oil and no leak, so I fill the 8 qts in and check the dipstick( which is in a dumb place where you can’t get an accurate measurement) I drove the car around the block and this am still no leaks. What do you guys suggest I do?

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[Mazman]

did you re-use the old plug or used a new one? Not sure what could be causing it not to lock but it is recommended to use a new plug during the change.

 

[Bikeman315]

Hey guys, it's your old pal Aftermarket. I've got something just for @Rapid Red

https://uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-valve-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/

Mik, OP has a 17’. Doesn’t that use the old style plug?

 

[GreenS550]

Another reason to do your own oil changes. Whoever changed the oil before torqued that wayyyyy to tight. If it were my car, I would drain the oil, inspect the plug to see if it had stripped threads on it and if so, replace and see if you have enough grip to properly tighten it. If not, Then I would look at a slightly larger plug, tap the hole to that size (making sure to get the metal shavings out as best you can) and you are done.

 

[Elp_jc]

Yep, you got a 2017, meaning a metal oil pan and drain plug, so it's stripped buddy. No way it's safe to drive like that; it can let go at any moment, and you'd be without oil in about 10 seconds. Get it fixed. Good luck.

 

[Biggus Dickus]

Wouldn't the best option be to simply replace the oil pan?

 

[Rapid Red]

If the threads are toast, to remove plug. Give this try may or may not work. Pull on the plug and rotate, it might be possible to catch a thread, and back it out.

If that happens, and the pan needs new threads cut. Let all the oil run out, meaning dry as possible. Wiping the area (lacquer thinner), apply grease to the tap. Coat threaded area of the hole keeping the grease from getting into the pan. This will hold the chips in the reliefs of the tap.

The drain plug for one of my cars, aluminum pan 19ftlbs just for reference .

It may not fall out, if it could you would be able to jut pull it out. Assuming that the plug felt good going in, started free spinning when torque applied.

There is the possibility the plug is striped up close to the top or back. Meaning the shoulder, if lucky pulling on the plug as mentioned above will let you get it out. Threads could be ok in the pan.

Good luck, and get oil changed at a reputable shop, if you must.

 

[ice445]

If the threads are toast, to remove plug. Give this try may or may not work. Pull on the plug and rotate, it might be possible to catch a thread, and back it out.

If that happens, and the pan needs new threads cut. Let all the oil run out, meaning dry as possible. Wiping the area (lacquer thinner), apply grease to the tap. Coat threaded area of the hole keeping the grease from getting into the pan. This will hold the chips in the reliefs of the tap.

The drain plug for one of my cars, aluminum pan 19ftlbs just for reference .

It may not fall out, if it could you would be able to jut pull it out. Assuming that the plug felt good going in, started free spinning when torque applied.

There is the possibility the plug is striped up close to the top or back. Meaning the shoulder, if lucky pulling on the plug as mentioned above will let you get it out. Threads could be ok in the pan.

Good luck, and get oil changed at a reputable shop, if you must.

Usually the pan threads are harder than the plug threads so the plug will start relieving upon being over torqued well before the pan will. I bet when OP pulls that bolt out he will see it stretched in the middle and almost broken. I agree that pulling hard and twisting counterclockwise normally should remove it. I had a shop way overtorque the drain plug on my Mercury Sable back in the day, I was amazed that it didn't break. This is what it looked like when I got it out.

 

[kz]

Wouldn't the best option be to simply replace the oil pan?

This.

 

[GreenS550]

Replacing the oil pan on a coyote mustang is no simple job.

 

[Rapid Red]

Usually the pan threads are harder than the plug threads so the plug will start relieving upon being over torqued well before the pan will. I bet when OP pulls that bolt out he will see it stretched in the middle and almost broken. I agree that pulling hard and twisting counterclockwise normally should remove it. I had a shop way overtorque the drain plug on my Mercury Sable back in the day, I was amazed that it didn't break. This is what it looked like when I got it out.

LOL, for some reason we all have these worn or broken parts from the past.... for what reason, unknown.

Like little trophies, they should have a glass case in the shop. To properly display these mementos of back in the day.

 

[Joe 5.0]

I wouldn't leave the bolt in there like that. You can either replace the pan, or tap & die the threads for a different sized bolt. Or, maybe you can seal up the factory hole, drill a new hole, and tap & die for a new bolt location?

I would play it safe and just replace the pan. You don't want to get stranded without oil.

 

[catchthecarp]

Good luck OP, hopefully you can get the drain plug out. If you're lucky only the threads on the plug are toast and not the pan as ice445 described. If the pan threads are good might be a good time to spring for a Femco, UPR or similar drain plug.

 

[ahl395]

It's stripped. Get an oversized drain plug.

 

[CrashOverride]

Don't drive it as is, unless you want to fix the problem by getting a new oil pan, attached to a new engine

Best fix - new oil pan
Next best fix - tap for a bigger drain plug
least acceptable - self-tapping oversized plug. The only bad thing about them is that every time you loosen/tighten, you cut new threads a little bit more.


If it were me...Drain out old oil into a clean container. Buy yourself several quarts of a very cheap oil. Then tap the threads for a larger drain plug. Then "flush" out the shavings by dumping in a bunch of the "disposable" oil. Personally, I'd drain the "disposable" oil into another clean container and use it for the lawnmower and for other uses. Then put your new plug in, tighten it with a torque wrench so as to not overtighten, and refill with your clean oil you originally dumped in it.

I don't remember if we have a stamped metal pan. If we do, then you could also use a magnet stick to try and get any shavings that make their way into the pan. Some guys apply a lot of heavy axle grease on the hole before tapping so as to suspend/trap the shavings as much as possible.

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