Front lower control arm/ball joint replacement

[SlowWhite]

So it looks like I have a ball joint that needs replacing.. first sign was after the the car has been driven and warmed up that in getting a creaking noise at low speeds especially when I turn the wheel to the left in a parking lot. I noticed it when I arrive at work after driven it about 40 miles. The sound reminds me of the steering sound of nearly every late 90s F150 lol..


it looks like a fairly simple job.. is it as simple as it looks? I was gonna get OE replacement parts since it’s my daily and it won’t be on the track.

can I get away without having to buy the special ball joint tool?

tips, tricks, and suggestions are welcomed.

I do plan to do lowering springs at some point. That may be the ideal time to knock it all out at once. I was thinking of the min drop BMR or something similar. Also when I do drop it, will alignment be a problem without upgrading anything else like adding plates or bolts?

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[steveespo]

So it looks like I have a ball joint that needs replacing.. first sign was after the the car has been driven and warmed up that in getting a creaking noise at low speeds especially when I turn the wheel to the left in a parking lot. I noticed it when I arrive at work after driven it about 40 miles. The sound reminds me of the steering sound of nearly every late 90s F150 lol..


it looks like a fairly simple job.. is it as simple as it looks? I was gonna get OE replacement parts since it’s my daily and it won’t be on the track.

can I get away without having to buy the special ball joint tool?

tips, tricks, and suggestions are welcomed.

I do plan to do lowering springs at some point. That may be the ideal time to knock it all out at once. I was thinking of the min drop BMR or something similar. Also when I do drop it, will alignment be a problem without upgrading anything else like adding plates or bolts?

If you want to save aggravation and possibly damaged parts get the ball joint tool specified from Freedom Racing Tools. The taper is super tight, a pickle fork can't get in there, hammering on the upright is difficult and off the shelf or HF ball joint tools won't get under the joint. I've done dozens of these and the tool makes quick work of it. OEM parts are fine, get Ford Motorcraft replacements, we have forum vendors who will ensure you get the right ones at a good price. Check your tie rod ends for play too.
Steve

 

[SlowWhite]

If you want to save aggravation and possibly damaged parts get the ball joint tool specified from Freedom Racing Tools. The taper is super tight, a pickle fork can't get in there, hammering on the upright is difficult and off the shelf or HF ball joint tools won't get under the joint. I've done dozens of these and the tool makes quick work of it. OEM parts are fine, get Ford Motorcraft replacements, we have forum vendors who will ensure you get the right ones at a good price. Check your tie rod ends for play too.
Steve

I’m all about saving aggravation...


Ordered the 204-592 tool from Freedom... even ordered the ford PP control arm kit from LMR.. if I’m gonna change one.. I’ll change them all..

I’ll check the tie rod ends too..

 

[SlowWhite]

Since the instructions for the PP control arm kit say to hand tighten the body side of the arm and torque it with the weight of the car on the wheel...


many tips on how to do that with jack stands and floor jack ?

 

[steveespo]

Since the instructions for the PP control arm kit say to hand tighten the body side of the arm and torque it with the weight of the car on the wheel...


many tips on how to do that with jack stands and floor jack ?

I get 4 12" Concrete blocks with pieces of 2"x10" on them and lower the car with the tires on them to load suspension. Keep jackstands positioned under the pinch welds but not touching just in case for safety. You can also jack under the spindle until the shock compresses enough that it lifts the car off the jackstand. the idea is not to bind the bushing in droop, but to get it at normal ride height position.

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