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Alignment after rear wheel bearing replacement?

whalesalad

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Sounds like you need to disconnect a few arms and pivot the entire knuckle downward in order to access the 4x bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle. After doing this on both sides, I'd imagine the rear end would probably benefit from an alignment?

I am about to do this job but just got a real tight+aggressive alignment that I am thinking I will completely erase after dropping both knuckles? Would love to hear your experience.

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AlbertD

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Just throwing this out there... if you had a defective wheel bearing while you got your last alignment, there is a chance (depending on how bad the bearing was) that your last alignment may have been slightly off. If it was me, I would get another alignment after the fresh bearing for peace of mind, but most likely... you are ok given Brian's advice.
 

NightmareMoon

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Just throwing this out there... if you had a defective wheel bearing while you got your last alignment, there is a chance (depending on how bad the bearing was) that your last alignment may have been slightly off. If it was me, I would get another alignment after the fresh bearing for peace of mind, but most likely... you are ok given Brian's advice.
that’s what I was thinking. If it was a recent alignment, not aure uou can trust it with bad wheel bearings in the mix, and if its been a while, well you’re probably due anyway.
 

Norm Peterson

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There's not much guarantee that reconnecting the links that were disconnected at the hub carrier is going to put the car back at exactly the same alignment specs, due to bolt to hole clearances being taken up differently. This probably isn't going to be a big effect, but it seems it would at least be worth checking.


Norm
 

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bnightstar

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Sounds like you need to disconnect a few arms and pivot the entire knuckle downward in order to access the 4x bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle. After doing this on both sides, I'd imagine the rear end would probably benefit from an alignment?

I am about to do this job but just got a real tight+aggressive alignment that I am thinking I will completely erase after dropping both knuckles? Would love to hear your experience.

Obligatory photo :captain:
5376BB17-29A0-4419-9997-B0D3B182BDD2.JPG
Did my wheel bearings at the dealer the service procedure didn't call for an alignment after changing bearings. So you don't need an alignment.
 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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Thanks for all the helpful tips and insight everyone.

I am going to give it a shot without dropping the knuckle. I had no idea there was enough room to get anything in there with the axle in the way.

If that fails, I'll drop it but try not to get too rough with any of the alignment points.

Also good point on the bearing perhaps leading to an inaccurate alignment. It's pretty tight still, but has the popping/clicking when going from reverse/forward or vice versa. This is the 2nd unit to fail on the rear pass side.

Will update here once I have had a chance to swap the parts out.

Here is a side by side if anyone is curious. On the left is an OEM replacement hub made by Timken. On the right is the same, but with 1/2"-longer ARP studs installed. I have these on the front and can't imagine life without them now.
IMG_5541.jpg
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