Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[Tsloop8324]

So after debating between procharger/whipple I ironically found myself wanting roush after reading through this thread. Checked pricing and it's a lot better than expected and this way I'll be able to retain what's left of my 3/36.

That being said, I hopefully will be ordering a phase 2 kit soon with it not expected to be here until august is what I was told so that gives me time to get my suspension in order.

Would the following be enough to handle a daily driven phase 2 car:

BMR CB-005 cradle lockout
BmR vertical links- poly
BMR 762 subframe brace

Ideally dont want to lower the car since I come across speed bumps and steep driveways. Anything I'm missing or absolutely need?

 

[AZ18yote]

So after debating between procharger/whipple I ironically found myself wanting roush after reading through this thread. Checked pricing and it's a lot better than expected and this way I'll be able to retain what's left of my 3/36.

That being said, I hopefully will be ordering a phase 2 kit soon with it not expected to be here until august is what I was told so that gives me time to get my suspension in order.

Would the following be enough to handle a daily driven phase 2 car:

BMR CB-005 cradle lockout
BmR vertical links- poly
BMR 762 subframe brace

Ideally dont want to lower the car since I come across speed bumps and steep driveways. Anything I'm missing or absolutely need?

How much is left on your 3/36?
I would still suggest springs else you're gonna get alot of squat at launch but that's true even NA. Better tires out back too for sure. Drive shaft and axles to play if safe imo but some are ok with OEM.

 

[Stymee]

If your cars an A10

Left side GT350 axle, BMR CB005, and a driveshaft loop, u don’t need a driveshaft.

Get a MT or Nitto Drag Radial, street tire is a waste of time (unless your driving around then street tire is fine)

 

[AZ18yote]

If your cars an A10

Left side GT350 axle, BMR CB005, and a driveshaft loop, u don’t need a driveshaft.

Get a MT or Nitto Drag Radial, street tire is a waste of time (unless your driving around then street tire is fine)

Whole heartedly agree on CB005, i just didn't mention it since he already had it listed

 

[Tsloop8324]

How much is left on your 3/36?
I would still suggest springs else you're gonna get alot of squat at launch but that's true even NA. Better tires out back too for sure. Drive shaft and axles to play if safe imo but some are ok with OEM.

I have until 7/28/21 until my 3 years is up. I'm sitting at 17k miles so I won't reach 36 before that. I was considering just doing drag springs since they are minimal drop but wasnt sure how they would do on a daily driven car

 

[Tsloop8324]

If your cars an A10

Left side GT350 axle, BMR CB005, and a driveshaft loop, u don’t need a driveshaft.

Get a MT or Nitto Drag Radial, street tire is a waste of time (unless your driving around then street tire is fine)

My car is a 10 speed PP1 car. I've never gone to a drag strip and dont plan to. Just driving around and having a little bit of fun.

As far as tires I'm still on the stock PP wheels with MP4s. I plan to go to a wider wheel with 305 nitto g2s.

 

[AZ18yote]

I have until 7/28/21 until my 3 years is up. I'm sitting at 17k miles so I won't reach 36 before that. I was considering just doing drag springs since they are minimal drop but wasnt sure how they would do on a daily driven car

So basically going with the Roush you'll get about a year worth of warranty then. @Stymee can explain the warranty piece in more detail. I cannot speak to the drag springs but their are some progressive springs out there that do less than 1" and keep alot of ride quality.

 

[AZ18yote]

My car is a 10 speed PP1 car. I've never gone to a drag strip and dont plan to. Just driving around and having a little bit of fun.

As far as tires I'm still on the stock PP wheels with MP4s. I plan to go to a wider wheel with 305 nitto g2s.

305 nitto 555 g2 are not enough. I had those in 315 still NA just on e85 and blew them off. Better than the pp1 tires, but would recommend at least their 555R or even the 555Rii. Can hook with power and are reasonable in rain.

 

[Tsloop8324]

305 nitto 555 g2 are not enough. I had those in 315 still NA just on e85 and blew them off. Better than the pp1 tires, but would recommend at least their 555R or even the 555Rii. Can hook with power and are reasonable in rain.

Okay that's the info I needed but couldn't seem to find. Seems everyone says G2 or indy 500. I do drive in the rain, with common sense of course. So that would work.

As far as warranty that's why i decided to go roush. Was initially going to wait until next year and do my own install of either of the 2 kits i mentioned earlier but that is a lot of risk so why not go roush now and not have near the risk and it will give me enough power since I'm not trying to set records or run 9s.

I also have a 72/75k extended warranty. I assume that stays but only covers things outside the powertrain since roush would be taking over that and finishing at the 3 year mark

 

[Lorand2288]

So I was able to finally find a way to keep an eye on my iat2 with my phase 1 and small LTR. I was averaging mid to low 140s while cruising and up to 160s at WOT. Weather was around 88 and humid. Hoping to see an improvement with phase 2 and the larger LTR.

 

[Stymee]

So I was able to finally find a way to keep an eye on my iat2 with my phase 1 and small LTR. I was averaging mid to low 140s while cruising and up to 160s at WOT. Weather was around 88 and humid. Hoping to see an improvement with phase 2 and the larger LTR.

You will a 20 degree improvement in 88 degrees driving, a bit more if it’s cooler out but mine don’t go up under wot, they drop

P2 isn’t too bad

 

[hlfbkd420]

You will a 20 degree improvement in 88 degrees driving, a bit more if it’s cooler out but mine don’t go up under wot, they drop

P2 isn’t too bad

i don’t agree with the 20 degree drop. It may cool off faster after hard runs, but don’t expect a 20 degree difference when driving around. P1 to P2 in 90 degree weather still hovers around 130 to 140 between the two.

 

[Stymee]

i don’t agree with the 20 degree drop. It may cool off faster after hard runs, but don’t expect a 20 degree difference when driving around. P1 to P2 in 90 degree weather still hovers around 130 to 140 between the two.

The gentleman said he is seeing 140’s cruising?

I see 120’s IAT2 in 85-90 here in Phila, Pa. while cruising as does many others across the USA in these temps

Now at idle they creep to 145, but again once moving they drop like a stone to 120’s again

I also do NOT see temps rise under WOT with the P2

 

[JasinEdward]

The gentleman said he is seeing 140’s cruising?

I see 120’s IAT2 in 85-90 here in Phila, Pa. while cruising as does many others across the USA in these temps

Now at idle they creep to 145, but again once moving they drop like a stone to 120’s again

I also do NOT see temps rise under WOT with the P2

I have the same p2.... my iat2s shoot up under wot.... they all do.

 

[Stymee]

I have the same p2.... my iat2s shoot up under wot.... they all do.

I haven’t run 1/2 mile banzai runs or multiple 1/4 mile hits run after run on the street but when I made a 1/4 mile hit in Mexico my IAT2’s dropped?

This was 1 hit, not repeated hits. I believe Bruce said his IAT2 dropped racing his car too.