FULL BOLT ON POTENTIAL?

[KT3]

Hey guys,

I’ve got a 2019 Mustang GT A10 PP1.

Just got my corsa xtreme catback exhaust installed.

Next up: Corsa xtreme headers 1.875 catless, JLT CAI, and dyno tuned by DaSilva racing (Canada) for 94 octane.

They’ve told me I would make around 490 WHP + This was before I even thought about getting the corsa catback, and i’ve heard the catback system adds anywhere from 10-20 hp.

What do you guys think? I want to be as close to 500whp+ as possible.

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[Idaho2018GTPremium]

You could add a ported OEM throttle body and intake manifold for additional power as well. I had mine ported by Bret Barber at Airflow solutions. FWIW, a Cobra jet intake manifold will make the car faster than a ported 2018 IM, even though the peak hp isn't much different from a ported 2018 IM. The difference is the CJ carries that peak hp longer, thus, accelerating the car quicker over time. There are more changes required for the CJ that don't come w/ a ported stock mani. since it is taller.

Lighter weight will help any hp gains go further:

Lightweight wheels will help acceleration and handling as well. I recently installed the SVE R350 19x10 all around and they look awesome, and are 9 lbs lighter than the factory PP1 wheels. Now that I look at your Avatar more closely, it looks like you may already have them, or something similar. Don't go overly wide with the tires in the front - no point unless you're tracking it - and it creates extra weight/drag/rolling resistance. I have the factory Michelin PP1 tires on the R350 wheels and they work fine (255/40 in front and 275/40 rear). The 255s are a little stretched on the 10" wide wheel, but they are within the recommended wheel width from Michelin. When you eventually buy new tires, look at the tire weights carefully. Since the tires are the furthest from the wheel hub, their mass makes the most difference on a per pound basis.

If your commute will allow for it - don't fill up past half tank (full tank of gas weighs 100 lbs). Keep your windshield washer reservoir no more than half full, remove the back seats, and remove the plastic engine cover (4.5 lbs measured by me yesterday on my kitchen scale), and the sound tube (1+ lbs). It looks better without the cover and sound tube anyway. If you really want to nitpick the weight - get a MMR water pump pulley (~3/4 lb ligther than factory, but it spins, so it's worth a bit more than that), and the GT350R aluminum strut tower brace is 2.5 lbs lighter than the PP1 brace. You can save about 9 lbs high speed rotational mass by replacing the driveshaft w/ a lightweight aluminum one, but I've heard noise and vibration increases are common.

I started a thread called "less common or obscure bolt ons" that may give you a few more ideas for less common mods:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/less-common-or-obscure-bolt-ons.142025/

 

[LxMike]

Cobra jet manifold, cams, headers and e85 tune.....

 

[AZ18yote]

The cat back wont add much if any. Ditch the cai (oem cai will keep iats down and provide smooth maf) and tune for e85/flex tune. That will get you where you want to be. Add a carbon fiber drive shaft and lighter wheels for less parasitic hp loss and more put down to the wheels.

With similar mods I put down 516whp/454wtq in warm weather on my 18 GT pp1 A10.

 

[AZ18yote]

Cobra jet manifold, cams, headers and e85 tune.....

Yup if going max effort NA then CJ and cams too.

 

[KT3]

You could add a ported OEM throttle body and intake manifold for additional power as well. I had mine ported by Bret Barber at Airflow solutions. FWIW, a Cobra jet intake manifold will make the car faster than a ported 2018 IM, even though the peak hp isn't much different from a ported 2018 IM. The difference is the CJ carries that peak hp longer, thus, accelerating the car quicker over time. There are more changes required for the CJ that don't come w/ a ported stock mani. since it is taller.

Lighter weight will help any hp gains go further:

Lightweight wheels will help acceleration and handling as well. I recently installed the SVE R350 19x10 all around and they look awesome, and are 9 lbs lighter than the factory PP1 wheels. Now that I look at your Avatar more closely, it looks like you may already have them, or something similar. Don't go overly wide with the tires in the front - no point unless you're tracking it - and it creates extra weight/drag/rolling resistance. I have the factory Michelin PP1 tires on the R350 wheels and they work fine (255/40 in front and 275/40 rear). The 255s are a little stretched on the 10" wide wheel, but they are within the recommended wheel width from Michelin. When you eventually buy new tires, look at the tire weights carefully. Since the tires are the furthest from the wheel hub, their mass makes the most difference on a per pound basis.

If your commute will allow for it - don't fill up past half tank (full tank of gas weighs 100 lbs). Keep your windshield washer reservoir no more than half full, remove the back seats, and remove the plastic engine cover (4.5 lbs measured by me yesterday on my kitchen scale), and the sound tube (1+ lbs). It looks better without the cover and sound tube anyway. If you really want to nitpick the weight - get a MMR water pump pulley (~3/4 lb ligther than factory, but it spins, so it's worth a bit more than that), and the GT350R aluminum strut tower brace is 2.5 lbs lighter than the PP1 brace. You can save about 9 lbs high speed rotational mass by replacing the driveshaft w/ a lightweight aluminum one, but I've heard noise and vibration increases are common.

I started a thread called "less common or obscure bolt ons" that may give you a few more ideas for less common mods:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/less-common-or-obscure-bolt-ons.142025/

Yeah i’ve got the SVE wheels. Thanks for the intel

 

[KT3]

The cat back wont add much if any. Ditch the cai (oem cai will keep iats down and provide smooth maf) and tune for e85/flex tune. That will get you where you want to be. Add a carbon fiber drive shaft and lighter wheels for less parasitic hp loss and more put down to the wheels.

With similar mods I put down 516whp/454wtq in warm weather on my 18 GT pp1 A10.

I store the car in the winter, so E85 isn’t ideal... Plus i’m promised 490+ on 94 octane. I’m not that serious considering i’ll never touch E85

 

[KT3]

Yup if going max effort NA then CJ and cams too.

Yeah i’ve been thinking about a Cobra Jet... Gonna need a bigger hood though, been looking at the Cervini GT500 replica hood. You can run pump fuel with the CJ right ?

 

[FruityJudy]

I store the car in the winter, so E85 isn’t ideal... Plus i’m promised 490+ on 94 octane. I’m not that serious considering i’ll never touch E85

You NEED a baseline dyno if you want your results to be worth anyghing

 

[KT3]

You NEED a baseline dyno if you want your results to be worth anyghing

my car is always dyno tuned

 

[FruityJudy]

my car is always dyno tuned

I dont see your car making 490+ with those mods unless it baselines high. But Hey, I've been wrong before

 

[AZ18yote]

Yeah i’ve been thinking about a Cobra Jet... Gonna need a bigger hood though, been looking at the Cervini GT500 replica hood. You can run pump fuel with the CJ right ?

There are mounts to lower engine to get it to fit. And yes you can run pump.

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

I store the car in the winter, so E85 isn’t ideal... Plus i’m promised 490+ on 94 octane. I’m not that serious considering i’ll never touch E85

Well thats the good thing about a flex fuel tune like what we provide, you have the freedom to swap back and forth between 93 and e85 and any mixture so actually it is pretty ideal especially when you can make a little extra power to help reach your goals

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

You NEED a baseline dyno if you want your results to be worth anyghing

One could argue that even better than dyno before/after are real world acceleration tests. To make them apples to apples I do the same tests on the same road, and note DA, then correct for DA if they are different. Make a mental note of wind direction so you can factor that into the differences. I do 20-70 mph and look at the splits for each 10 mph segment. I'm not about to go up to 100+ on a public back street so I live with just 70 mph. I don't usually test from a dig because there are too many variables on the launch that affect time. That said, I have done a few 0-60 tests to see where I land but don't really use that for before/after.

 

[Flyhalf]

The cat back wont add much if any. Ditch the cai (oem cai will keep iats down and provide smooth maf) and tune for e85/flex tune. That will get you where you want to be. Add a carbon fiber drive shaft and lighter wheels for less parasitic hp loss and more put down to the wheels.

With similar mods I put down 516whp/454wtq in warm weather on my 18 GT pp1 A10.

Cat back adds 12-14whp
Dyno before and after.
Similar results seen by billy johnson (ford driver)

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