Had enough of aftermarket CAI & HIGH IAT's. So here's my fix.

[fuelforfire87]

Some the holes in these air boxes are there intentionally. Cp-e's intake has slits in the box for hot air to escape. And typically there is at least a hole at the bottom to allow any water seepage to drain out. IMO sealing the box can sometimes result in hot air getting trapped in there. That could be why your cruising temps are higher.

The way I did mine- I have the Velossa tech big mouth blocking off the radiator backwash and an open air box that seals fairly well to the hood but probably not air tight. Idling and cruising temps are excellent.

Been Curios about the Velossa tech. I've heard from a few sources that the ram air effect from the big mouth can cause too much air to enter the airbox and disrupt the MAF signal. Did you notice any driveability issues after doing the Velossa tech?

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[Bluemustang]

Been Curios about the Velossa tech. I've heard from a few sources that the ram air effect from the big mouth can cause too much air to enter the airbox and disrupt the MAF signal. Did you notice any driveability issues after doing the Velossa tech?

No not at all with my JLT and Lund tune. No change to the tune.

 

[Nate_V8]

I've been looking at my CS grill and because it's all open I can see (what I assume) is the air box. With how close the grill is to the box I think I can open (drill) the corner and fab up something to act like a velossa tech

 

[Bluemustang]

I've been looking at my CS grill and because it's all open I can see (what I assume) is the air box. With how close the grill is to the box I think I can open (drill) the corner and fab up something to act like a velossa tech

I just cut out the honey combs of the stock grille and dremmeled the edges smooth. You can't even really see it unless you were up close and paying attention.

 

[Bluemustang]

Doesn't the honeycomb act as an venturi?

Heck if I know. I do know Velossa Tech advises opening them up though.

 

[Nate_V8]

A little annoying, guess that isn't an air box I'm seeing

 

[Dfeeds]

Some the holes in these air boxes are there intentionally. Cp-e's intake has slits in the box for hot air to escape. And typically there is at least a hole at the bottom to allow any water seepage to drain out. IMO sealing the box can sometimes result in hot air getting trapped in there. That could be why your cruising temps are higher.

The way I did mine- I have the Velossa tech big mouth blocking off the radiator backwash and an open air box that seals fairly well to the hood but probably not air tight. Idling and cruising temps are excellent.

Ah, alright. The slits being for heat extraction and to draw in a bit more air at WOT were thoughts that crossed my mind, but I also wouldn't put it passed ford to have poor molding. It's definitely not knowledge that can be easily obtained. There's a lot more that goes into the performance of an intake than just more and cooler air.

I'm going to look into sealing the top a bit better and just leave it at that. Unless someone uses their car strictly to drag race, and spends a lot of time waiting, moving IATs are the most important to keep down.

 

[GregO]

Personally,
Getting hung up on IAT’s at the MAF location is meritless without knowing the IAT at the intake port leading to valve area.
I’m not sure a temperature reduction at the MAF sampling area equals the same Temp. reduction at the intake port / valve area.

I’d like to know the Delta difference.
I’m most sure Ford’s R&D / Durability testing had thermocouples placed into the intake ports.

 

[Dfeeds]

On the street too.. from a dig if your like 20 degrees cooler than the guy beside you waiting at that 2 min light say.

You're looking at this in way too simplistic of terms. Unless the air the engine is drawing in is the heat soaked engine bay air then that high idle number isn't that important. Our piping is a plastic composite, with a very low heat conductivity. At WOT, the air velocity would minimize any heat transfer from occuring. Now if you had aluminum tubing or sharp bends then, sure, there would be an issue. Aluminum is used as a heat sink for a reason. All it would do is transfer the heat from the air in the engine compartment to air charge in the intake. But even then, the routing would need a couple bends in it for even that to be a concern. Keeping the air coming in as close to ambient as possible should always be the priority.

Now here comes the issue with an air tight system. When the vehicle is inevitably not in motion, and idling, everything has a lot more time to conduct heat and transfer it to the cooler source. So once that heat is transferred to the air sitting in the bucket, where does it go once you punch it? Into the combustion chamber.

Cooler air, being more dense than warm air, will push the warm air up and out of the way when it collides. Think of going WOT from a stop. The cooler air will rush in and move in sort of a down then up and around fashion with the cone filter (this doesn't apply to a panel filter like the stock box). If you have everything completely sealed off then you're just going to also draw that warm air in, which will cause an oddity in the pressure which does have an affect on the combustion process (which relies on pressure differentials to draw in air as well as remove exhaust gasses). Now if you have a way for that warm air to vent, like the slits in my box that my ignorance had me block off, then when the cooler air pushes the warm air out of the way, it has somewhere to go. But it's a balancing act because you don't want to be drawing in more warm air than cold air. Warm air rises, so working on the hood seal to be air tight would yield the best results, while keeping the little vent slits open. The next step would be to wrap the air intake with materials that significantly slow the rate of heat transfer. I believe someone, a few posts back, already went into this. Some gold tape heat wrap and fiber glass, if I recall?

If you want things to be as simple as keeping hot air out and the incoming air cool, then the OEM style intake is the best bet. A panel filter draws air in from one source (sometimes, if the box isn't air tight then you can be drawing in unfiltered engine bay air). As such, almost everything I talked about with a cone filter is irrelevant. The only real downside to the panel style is that it has a lower surface area to size ratio than the cone. This can be offset by using a more free flowing filter, but now you're giving up filtration ability. So it's actually the cone style filter being used to offset the more restrictive paper filter. Aftermarket intakes generally use better flowing filters in either set up, hence why the "which is better" probably just boils down to aesthetic preference.

 

[Nate_V8]

So '18 box and high flow panel filter and call it a day?

 

[Kermitz]

So '18 box and high flow panel filter and call it a day?

And a Velossa Tech duct.

 

[Dfeeds]

So '18 box and high flow panel filter and call it a day?

If you're stock and feel the marginal bump in horsepower is worth the worse filtration then sure. If you're tuned then it's a matter of making sure the stock box and aftermarket filter are providing the same amount of air the ecm is tuned to expect.

 

[Nate_V8]

Do you use a velossa tech with the Pmas also?

I see you used plexi glass to stop the rad back wash

 

[Bluemustang]

Guys the Velossa tech really is a big part of it. If you just focus on the airbox lid/sealing, you're still getting hot radiator backwash blown right into the airpath. The Velossa tech basically solves that. This is the biggest component ime testing different intakes.
Lowering the IAT is really pretty easy and simple. You just have to understand how it works. My JLT box isn't even fully sealed and the IAT is excellent.

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