What kind of supercharger should I get?

[Karrottop009]

Well damn right then! Just one of those details I never see in reviews. Hopefully, I'll have enough pennies by next spring...

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[Jordanfmeyer]

Don't mind me throwing a parallel topic in the middle of this! Which supercharger is most recommended for a cross country 18 Mustang with Tremec swap and 3.55 gears? I've found that I need 21mpg minimum to make the trip to Florida due to how spread out gas pumps are along with 16 gallon tank. I'd love to at least throw on a stage 1 whipple with stock pulley, but I don't want to haul spare canisters that stank up the cabin...

I recently tested my mpg out with my Procharger and for a 60 mile trip at 70mph it was right at 30 mpg in my 350. I was pretty amazed actually.

 

[GreenS550]

I had a vortec on my 09 Bullitt and I saw the same thing super good mileage. And then I said cool sucking sound at idle

 

[Dominant1]

A Centrifugal sc will always outperform all the instant boost blowers with fuel mileage because boost comes in at higher rpms.. the car runs like stock until the boost comes in..

 

[Jordanfmeyer]

A Centrifugal sc will always outperform all the instant boost blowers with fuel mileage because boost comes in at higher rpms.. the car runs like stock until the boost comes in..

It may not be instant like the PD blowers but it doesn’t take long for boost to kick in!

 

[Dominant1]

It may not be instant like the PD blowers but it doesn’t take long for boost to kick in!

Especially with 3:55 gears and a 6r80 with a 4:17 1st gear, and a Procharger 4:10 step up ratio..

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Especially with 3:55 gears and a 6r80 with a 4:17 1st gear, and a Procharger 4:10 step up ratio..

Or even more gear than 3.55......

 

[WhinRR]

Show me your time slips of a manual transmission street tire supercharged car. Talk is cheap. No timing pulled. You are reading other peoples' comments. Let's see your time slips from your GT350. My guess is if the car was running really good NA you would be lucky to see 12.50 in the 1/4 mile. Your made assumptions without fact. You did not know the tires I used. Heat soak will cause the car to run slower and slower and pull timing seriously. You need to do your homework.
The Roush with a good intercooler, like the Whipple I owned will NOT pull timing if set up correctly.

18+ Roush kits are known to face heat soak problems. This is why they released the stage 2 that really focuses on cooling and this still doesn't fix the problem. The 17 and older Roush do not suffer the same problems. I ran 12.3 with E85 tune only in my 18 GT with MT82 consistently on back to back passes.

 

[GreenS550]

I apologize to anyone I may have offended. I came off too strong. We all have different experiences and it is not my place to take the high road about mods.

 

[Dominant1]

I apologize to anyone I may have offended. I came off too strong. We all have different experiences and it is not my place to take the high road about mods.

No apology necessary, we are all guilty of being a little harsh at times. The mustang brotherhood forgives and forgets..

 

[bluebeastsrt]

No we don’t!

 

[Angrey]

18+ Roush kits are known to face heat soak problems. This is why they released the stage 2 that really focuses on cooling and this still doesn't fix the problem. The 17 and older Roush do not suffer the same problems. I ran 12.3 with E85 tune only in my 18 GT with MT82 consistently on back to back passes.

The problem is 2 part. First is hardware and the Roush kits do create more heat (compared to most other options). They also have undersized cooling gear (compared to upgraded or oversized options from most of the other offerings). But the real killer is the nanny features in the tune.

MOST people who get the Roush utilize their tune (that's a big portion of the advantage of selecting the Roush is the warranty). Their tune has pretty severe nanny features which yank timing early and hard when heat soak kicks in.

Everyone knows at this point, a big part of why the coyote and modern OHC, VCT Ford motors are able to put out so much has to do with optimal air/fuel/spark and these motors are very sensitive to heat and IAT's. Yes, the motor will punch way above it's weight in ideal conditions, but in less than ideal conditions, it comes back down to Earth and becomes pretty pedestrian. Knock sensors and IAT restrictions mean any sort of non ideal conditions and the motor will basically curl up in a ball and suck it's thumb.

I think the Roush kits wouldn't be THAT bad with more reasonable aftermarket tuning that doesn't have such drastic nanny protections. (if you had to warranty a supercharger and any ill effects, you'd make it overly safe too).

 

[brucelinc]

But the real killer is the nanny features in the tune.

MOST people who get the Roush utilize their tune (that's a big portion of the advantage of selecting the Roush is the warranty). Their tune has pretty severe nanny features which yank timing early and hard when heat soak kicks in.

Specifically, at what iat2 level does the phase 2 Roush tune begin pulling timing? How many degrees? As the heat rises, how much timing is pulled and at what heat levels? At what iat2 does the throttle body close?

 

[WhinRR]

I think the Roush kits wouldn't be THAT bad with more reasonable aftermarket tuning that doesn't have such drastic nanny protections. (if you had to warranty a supercharger and any ill effects, you'd make it overly safe too).

I think Roush changed the tune in stage 2 to increase the temperature ranges it starts to pull timing

 

[GreenS550]

So, back to what supercharger to get. Since I put the Procharger on, I have come to really like it. Though the HO kit with the Procharger tune only made 525 RWHP, it drove really well. The place I took it, a reputable shop, told me the car would run probably run lower 11s, maybe high 10s. This shocked me with only that HP. But he drag races frequently and drove the car with me for a few miles commenting how good the Procharger tune was.

Since then I did the BAP (which I understand wasn't needed), injectors and pulley. The car makes a lot more power (PBD tuned) but drives nicely and shifts good. I want to take it to the dyno again to see the current HP figures.

I think with a manual and the long '18 up gearing you might be better off with a PD blower like a Whipple, Edelbrock, Roush, etc.

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