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What kind of supercharger should I get?

GreenS550

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His car was trapping slower than an equivalent bolt on's 2018+ would trap naturally aspirated. He couldn't even get through a pass without it yanking timing. The reality is, for guys in FL, your IAT's can climb to 140+ sitting at a stop light for 3 minutes (or sitting in line at a big event where you can't push your car into staging) and if it starts yanking timing around 170, it's a problem because it builds heat so quickly.

I don't think it's a problem if you're starting from much lower IATs, but in reality, that's not always an option, like if you do a WOT immediately followed by another WOT.
Show me your time slips of a manual transmission street tire supercharged car. Talk is cheap. No timing pulled. You are reading other peoples' comments. Let's see your time slips from your GT350. My guess is if the car was running really good NA you would be lucky to see 12.50 in the 1/4 mile. Your made assumptions without fact. You did not know the tires I used. Heat soak will cause the car to run slower and slower and pull timing seriously. You need to do your homework.
The Roush with a good intercooler, like the Whipple I owned will NOT pull timing if set up correctly.
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Angrey

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Show me your time slips of a manual transmission street tire supercharged car. Talk is cheap. No timing pulled. You are reading other peoples' comments. Let's see your time slips from your GT350. My guess is if the car was running really good NA you would be lucky to see 12.50 in the 1/4 mile. Your made assumptions without fact. You did not know the tires I used. Heat soak will cause the car to run slower and slower and pull timing seriously. You need to do your homework.
The Roush with a good intercooler, like the Whipple I owned will NOT pull timing if set up correctly.
I don't have to show you shit.

I posted a video of a guy who installed the FRPP Roush kit and had SERIOUS issues with timing retard due to excessive IAT's. I have no comment on your experiences. I've personally seen 2018+ cars trap 120 without a blower and he was having a hell of a time trapping 115. I've PERSONALLY seen 2015-17 cars with full bolt on's trap 116-117 repeatedly all day long. For a blower 2018+ to trap 115 is pathetic. Period. End of debate. If you watch the video, he CLEARLY indicates it's a timing issue up top with excessive IAT's. And he's no noob. He has his own performance shop.

IF I were to build a Roush blower setup, I'd have budget for a killer chiller or some sort of help for the intercooling because it's widely known in FL, where IAT's are some of the harshest, that Roush blowers have trouble keeping up.

Maybe that's not been your experience. Fine. I'm just letting others know. You can give them your opinion as well and they can sort out for themselves with all the information at hand.
 

GreenS550

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Ah, you need to swear to get your point across. OK, you're the expert.
 

Angrey

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Ah, you need to swear to get your point across. OK, you're the expert.
Cause you're wanting to argue with me and I'm not interested. Take it up with him (Parker performance). I'm just passing along information.

I suspect the Roush can be relieved of this issue somewhat with E85 and a non Ford tune, relaxing some of the nanny features with IAT's but that kinda removes one of the big selling points about the FRPP/Roush kit and warranty (using an aftermarket tuner would negate any warranty of a dealer installed Roush kit).
 

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In my experience, I installed a turbo kit on a mid 2000's car (different platform) with no prior experience. Once the ringland blew, I built the engine and put an upgraded valvetrain in it as well. A person who's looking at an off the shelf supercharger kit for these cars CAN do it themselves with no major knowledge of working on cars.

That being said,

You are in a manual car, have a budget and want over 700whp. That can be a catch-22.


My recommendation?

Take your budget....tack on an extra 3 grand...and then purchase a kit. It always seems to cost more in the end than we are expecting and it's best to have that extra cash waiting for unforseen needed purchases.

The phrase "house rich, mortgage poor" can be used for cars too. "Supercharger rich, supporting parts poor".

I've been there (I'm sure everyone who has recommended saving has been there too)......it suuuucks.
 

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brucelinc

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I think a lot of the hate on Roush due to heatsoak or high iat2 readings is based on the the early phase 1 kits for 2018+ models. From what I hear, yes, heat and high iat2 numbers were terrible. Since then, they have revised the heat exchanger and the tuning. The phase 2 version does a MUCH better job managing heat. Granted, having the IC UNDER the supercharger is not ideal. I am not saying the Roush design would be a great choice in a really hot desert climate, either.

Yes, Iat2 rises when the car is shut off and also rises some when stopped. However, temps drop VERY quickly once moving or even revving the engine a bit. I see lower temps after heavy throttle application than when just cruising. I am told the the Roush starts closing the TB at 160 degree iat2. I have never gotten close to that temp with the car running in 90 degree ambient days. If is is pulling timing prior to 160, it must be very little. I see no more decline in performance in hot conditions that I did when the car was naturally aspirated.
 

fuelforfire87

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Being that the gears on the later MT82’s are taller than the 15-17 cars, the change in ratio isn’t a completely terrible idea.
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Interesting, So a manual 15-17 car with 3.55's is like an 18+ with 4.09's. Didn't realize there was that big of a difference in the mt-82 gear ratios.
 

SheepDog

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On3 top mount system might be doable under 7k including paying someone else to install it. Otherwise, 7k won't get the job done
 

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On3 top mount system might be doable under 7k including paying someone else to install it. Otherwise, 7k won't get the job done
I have a couple of mates running the on-3 kit and they've had nothing but great experience and their cars rip. Of course, they've spent extra money on broken supporting parts (like everyone in the thread has warned), mainly trans, drive shaft and driveline related stuff. on3 has come a long way in improving their reputation as a reasonably priced twin setup. Everyone was skeptical at first, but as time goes by, there's more and more of their top mount setups out there making great power at a more affordable price than some of the shiny name more expensive kits.
 

SplawnDarts

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Interesting, So a manual 15-17 car with 3.55's is like an 18+ with 4.09's. Didn't realize there was that big of a difference in the mt-82 gear ratios.
Yes - the MT82-D4 is a very different feeling transmission. It really lends itself to forced induction much more than the previous gearing.
 

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Where would I look for these deals at? Craigslist?
I have seen parts and even full kits in the “Marketplace” or maybe it’s called “classifieds.” It’s the for sale section on this website.
 

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To answer your question:

You should get the kind of supercharger that makes the most power and blows your engine up. Then you can ask, what kind of built motor should i get. You should get the kind of built motor that makes the most power and blows up your transmission. Then you can ask, what kind of transmission should i get. You should get the kind of transmission that holds the most power so that you can blow your diff up. Then you can ask what kind of diff should i get. You should get the kind of diff that literally blows the tires off the rims themselves. Only then will your mod list be complete.... lol
 
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Karrottop009

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Don't mind me throwing a parallel topic in the middle of this! Which supercharger is most recommended for a cross country 18 Mustang with Tremec swap and 3.55 gears? I've found that I need 21mpg minimum to make the trip to Florida due to how spread out gas pumps are along with 16 gallon tank. I'd love to at least throw on a stage 1 whipple with stock pulley, but I don't want to haul spare canisters that stank up the cabin...
 

GreenS550

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Every supercharged car I owned except the crappy Magnuson that livernois put on average 23-25mpg at 63 mph and still over 21 at 80. My recent Bullitt with 373 gears and the Whipple stage 1 kit with the whole time got really good mileage. 18 getting on it City only. 25 highest. All around driving about 21. That's on 93 or 91 octane. Excellent product. Excellent intercooling system. Perfect drivability. Did several 500+ road trips. I'd do it again and will likely put it on my new Mach 1 I'm ordering.
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