First handling mods

[v8hgt]

Just to clarify. I’m running the grey derelian steeda rear subframe location bushes for bmr cbr005 compatibility. Not the steeda diff bushes. And no change to nvh as far as I can tell.
Couldn’t see the point in diff bushes for road use. I’m told they do introduce with little positive benefit. Would put my money on an aftermarket shifter mechanism and trans fluid swap long before diff bushes.

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[maddog1982]

Thanks again!

 

[maddog1982]

Just to clarify. I’m running the grey derelian steeda rear subframe location bushes for bmr cbr005 compatibility. Not the steeda diff bushes. And no change to nvh as far as I can tell.
Couldn’t see the point in diff bushes for road use. I’m told they do introduce with little positive benefit. Would put my money on an aftermarket shifter mechanism and trans fluid swap long before diff bushes.

Not sure I've seen those? We are not talking about the steeda dowels the bolts go through are we?

 

[v8hgt]

Not sure I've seen those? We are not talking about the steeda dowels the bolts go through are we?

That’s it. Grey location dowels for the bolts. But they do a set specifically for users of the bmr cb005 which are a bit shorter than normal

 

[cib24]

I have all of this for sale. Brand new.

Ford Performance T2-R Torsen Differential - £900. Standard on US PP1 & PP2 GT, GT350 and GT500. Unavailable on UK Mustangs. Will last the life of the car and is more predictable than the factory diff which wears out in 15,000-30,000 miles.

Ford Performance 4.09 Ring and Pinion w/ Ring and Pinion Install Kit - £475. 2018+ Manual GTs are annoying with 2nd gear to 80 mph and 3rd to 120mph. It makes them slower until triple digits than the 15-17 cars. This fixes that and makes the car more engaging at more legal speeds letting you enjoy the upper RPMs in 2nd through 4th before going too fast. It will also improve acceleration and feel like you gained 50hp/50tq.

BMR CB007H 2-Point Front Subframe Brace - £100. Better connect the front end to add more feel to the steering.

BMR CB005H Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit - £185. Best kit to stop wheel hop without going nuts on other parts that add NVH.

BMR SCB766 Rear Cradle Alignment Bushings - £25. Great compliment to the CB005H.

Ford Racing Toe Knuckle Bearings - £70. Standard on the GT350. Better rear end precision when cornering and particularly when coming out of a corner on the power. Also compliments the CB005 in reducing some wheel hop.

ZL1 Rock Guards - £80. Protect your wheel arches, doors and rear quarter panels from stone chips.

Ford Performance License Plate Holders - £20.

 

[WD Pro]

@cib24

I know at some point in time I will regret not looking at that diff and pinion sale more seriously ...

How come the sell up ?

WD

 

[cib24]

 

[cib24]

@cib24

I know at some point in time I will regret not looking at that diff and pinion sale more seriously ...

How come the sell up ?

WD

Happy to consider good offers especially because you've been keen and popping up in 4.09 threads for a while!

 

[maddog1982]

That’s it. Grey location dowels for the bolts. But they do a set specifically for users of the bmr cb005 which are a bit shorter than normal

Perfect! Ordered those!

 

[maddog1982]

So tell me more about the diff? Are you saying we have a different one to those in America? I'm a 2016gt manual

 

[cib24]

So tell me more about the diff? Are you saying we have a different one to those in America? I'm a 2016gt manual

Correct. UK, EU and other export market Mustangs do not get the full Performance Pack treatment regardless of whether you have an automatic or manual of any year. Our cars in the UK that are offered are neutered Performance Pack 1 cars compred to what is offered in the States. The biggest performance differences being horsepower and torque (which everyone knows the reasons why due to the header design and emissions regulations), as well as the fact that our cars (including even the Bullitt of all things) do not get the factory fitted Torsen T2-R differential that is standard on all US PP1, PP2, Bullitt, Mach 1, GT 350, GT 350R and GT 500 cars.

The "standard" Ford LSD that we get stuck with on our cars here in the UK (and all other export markets) comes in the Mustangs is a clutch type, called "Trac-Lok". It is a clutch type unit that Ford has been putting in all of its Mustang base models and trucks since the 1990s. They are sufficient for daily driving and do an okay job of torque-biasing but the major downsides are clutch wear and heat. The clutches typically wear out in 15,000-30,000 miles of driving in the USA where the roads are really straight, and then they basically don't function as a limited slip anymore and your car acts like it has an open differential, i.e. spinning the inside wheel in a corner and one tyre fire burnouts. The clutch packs can be rebuilt at your own cost and time.

A torsen LSD is standard in many sports cars and is considered the most versatile type of LSD offered on the market for road and track use. It is a gear type LSD meaning it has no clutches and needs no special additives. They don't wear out so will last the life of the car unless you explode it with a 7k RPM launch at Santa Pod like any other diff might do. They also do a much better job of torque biasing so your grip in a corner is more progressive/consistent and when the car breaks away it is also more progressive. The Torsen also runs cooler because it's not slipping clutches heating up the fluid.

I'm sure you have read various reviews in Evo and in other places of people running Mustangs on track days or through the Moors really pushing on, and they always comment that the car will go into limp mode after a few minutes of very hard driving because the diff overheats, and you also read up on here about people painting their exhaust pipes that go by the diff to keep the diff cooler, etc. You will also read about how twitchy the rear is as the diff locks and unlocks in an unpredictable way on the limit and traction control is fighting. The Torsen reduces/eliminates these key issues and the best part is you don't have to worry about it wearing out and functioning like a diff should.

At the end of the day you have to decide if it's worth it to you. If you just potter around and only squirt the throttle on slip roads on and off the motorway then the diff and any other suspension modifications are completely pointless to you. If you tend to take the car for a drive on good A roads early on Sunday mornings or with your mates across Wales, Scotland, Europe or if you do a few track days, then the mods will be worth it and make the car that much more enjoyable.

 

[cib24]

By the way to others. Difference with the 4.09s on a 2019+ GT. Gears 1-4 are improved dramatically and you still have such long 5th and 6th gears that your fuel economy won't suffer on the motorway.

 

[maddog1982]

What great information, I really thought I was clued up on what we were missing on our cars and had no idea about the diff. I do quite low mileage and dont drive that hard. The roads by me are country lanes and always stuck behind a lorry or a slow driver. If the roads are clear I do like to push it a bit but I doubt I've ever got near the limits. My lady has a golf R and that is staggering how it handles, I notice the mustang feels woolly in the rear kinda like its disconnected hence the slight mods I've bought on this thread. I'm so torn whether to keep this for life as it's the high tax model or buy a brand new one before the petrol ban, the gear ratios really annoy me in regards to the 2018 one. I've waited all my life for a mustang and the aim is to have one for ever unless something drastically changes. In time it will spend a lot of the time in a garage hence the high tax thing is always on my mind, feel like that bracket has the potential to really ramp up soon. We got a rough deal compared to the guys over the pond, I've family over there and bits are like 60 percent of what we pay.

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