AirCooled222
Member
I may, when it is time to buy.Why not go above the Michelin and get Bridgestone RE71R then?
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I may, when it is time to buy.Why not go above the Michelin and get Bridgestone RE71R then?
Yeah, they're not an endurance tire for sure. I was merely pointing out that different tires offer different tradeoffs. The Indy is a great tire for it's price - evidenced by the nearly unanimous positive feedback on this forum. Yeah, the Michelin MP4S has more grip but it's a lot more expensive. Price, it just one of the possible tradeoffs. The Michelin won't touch the RE71R for grip and handling, but it has its tradeoffs too.I actually asked the guys at RR in Sterling and they love the RE71. But on 3000lb cars, not 4000. They do 8hr endurance racing at Summit, and you're only allowed to change 1 wheel if you get a flat. Otherwise the car has to go behind the wall. The heavier cars only got about 5 hrs before the magic smoke was exhausted.
A man that knows what he wants. Lol I respect that. Good grip is excellent.I may, when it is time to buy.
I haven’t had any ground clearance issues and I park in underground parking with somewhat steep ramps likely similar to your driveway.This became all about tires real quick.
Just one more question, any idea if ground clearance will be a issue? My driveway is a small hill with the garage at the bottom.
If you installed shock mounts I’d investigate there first.Well, the good news is, I finally got my car back from the shop!
The bad news is after getting it back, I have been beset by a "mysterious ticking noise"
Not constant, but whenever the right rear goes over a bump (water pipe cover size), I hear a definite tick/knock sound. My first instinct was that it was something in the trunk being bounced around, but I moved every loose item out of it and took a normal drive, and the sound was still there.
The car doesn't behave oddly, even under spirited driving, and there isn't really a vibration that happens with the sound, outside of the normal rocking from going over a bump. It also sounds more like plastic hitting than metal.
Still, anyone have any ideas?
Great to hear man. That’s a good result. By rod end do you mean the shock piston rod? Or something else?Took it to the shop, and they tightened everything and checked it out. Seems like the rod end was slightly rotating and clinking against the shock mount. After it was tightened down, the noise stopped, hasn't come back after 250 miles of highway driving up to Maine or some of the rougher roads near Mount Desert Island.
That looks awesome! Did you end up using spacers in front? What was the final total for everything, if you don't mind me asking?Well, the good news is, I finally got my car back from the shop!
The bad news is after getting it back, I have been beset by a "mysterious ticking noise"
Not constant, but whenever the right rear goes over a bump (water pipe cover size), I hear a definite tick/knock sound. My first instinct was that it was something in the trunk being bounced around, but I moved every loose item out of it and took a normal drive, and the sound was still there.
The car doesn't behave oddly, even under spirited driving, and there isn't really a vibration that happens with the sound, outside of the normal rocking from going over a bump. It also sounds more like plastic hitting than metal.
Still, anyone have any ideas?
Nope, just using the BMR springs, haven't had any issues with speed bumps or anything else so far.That looks awesome! Did you end up using spacers in front? What was the final total for everything, if you don't mind me asking?
$1,200 is not bad for all that work. In lieu of doing it yourself I'd say you did alright man. Tell us - how does it feel? Also, don't forget a really good alignment plays a large role. Congrats on the new setup.Nope, just using the BMR springs, haven't had any issues with speed bumps or anything else so far.
Parts Breakdown;
- Ford Performance Track Struct & Shock kit (M-18000-F)
- Strut Tower Brace
- Ford TPMS
- Steeda Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction kit
- Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
- BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout kit, level 2
- BMR Rear Shock Mount
- BMR Lowering springs (Handling version)
- SVE R357 wheels (19x10 square set up)
- Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (285/35R19)
Total for parts - $3860 (Incl tax, but I used coupons and some items were on sale)
Total for work - $1200, done in 6 days by a local shop (unsure how bad I got fleeced there)
Total overall - $5060
To quote the best phrase in the world;
"Better than I feared, worse than I hoped"
The car feels much tighter and more composed, overall. Wheel hop has pretty much been eliminated and grip is vastly improved. The car feels like it's on rails. But more importantly, it feels much more communicative on top of being more composed, like I can feel exactly what's going on between the car and the road.$1,200 is not bad for all that work. In lieu of doing it yourself I'd say you did alright man. Tell us - how does it feel? Also, don't forget a really good alignment plays a large role. Congrats on the new setup.