OPG & CS Installation Poll -- Have you upgraded these parts?

[Slopoke]

I just did the oil pump gears and timing chain sprocket in my 2019, in conjunction with my Whipple Stage II Gen 5 installation. The oil pan has to be lowered, you just have to remove all of the bolts and pull the pan down in the front.The oil pump won't come out due to the slip fit oil pickup tube. With the oil pan lowered, the pickup tube clears the inlet of the pump and the pump can then be pulled forward on the crankshaft then off.

I did a drop test from about 6' with the stock gear and it took two drops on a concrete surface to split. Pics are below.

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[15GTPP]

This has always been a tough decision for me. It’s hard paying $750+ for install when I see people doing them for $400 or shops for $900 parts included on Ig. I honestly didn’t know they were a bit stronger in the 18+ motors. I receive my opg/cs tomorrow and will be getting them installed for $800 locally. I paid $900 a few years ago at a shop in Houston.

 

[sabtaj1]

I dunno if the 18 up are stronger but 18 n up have fluid dampeners.

 

[DevFiveOh]

Getting mine upgraded at the same time the Whipple is going on... I like to play safe, especially when pushing the cars limits. Plus, the peace of mind will make daily driving more relaxing.

 

[Slopoke]

This has always been a tough decision for me. It’s hard paying $750+ for install when I see people doing them for $400 or shops for $900 parts included on Ig. I honestly didn’t know they were a bit stronger in the 18+ motors. I receive my opg/cs tomorrow and will be getting them installed for $800 locally. I paid $900 a few years ago at a shop in Houston.

Why not do the install yourself? It's easier on your year of Mustang.

 

[15GTPP]

Why not do the install yourself? It's easier on your year of Mustang.

Need to update the sig. I have 19’ now. I’ve installed my Procharger kits in the past but don’t have the confidence to do the opg/cs.

 

[Bullitt69]

Just DO it.... You'll be bouncing the redline soon enough with a supercharger, unless you're really careful...

I used to bang the limiter on my 2009 with a Roush M90 often enough, (5 speed), so from experience (now owning a 6 spd) feel I'll be better off in the long run.

 

[SheepDog]

First Mod I did to this car. Brought it home with 85 miles on it, and went to work. I knew I was going to throw boost at it, and didn't want to worry about that part. Any part of the motor can fail when you giving it the beans, but known weak points should be addressed/replaced IMHO. Stock Coyotes are pretty damn strong, but no doubt that the OPG/Crank sprocket is their Achilles heal. Like many others have said though, plenty of high HP cars running around on stock OPG's/crank sprocket. I'm the type that would worry about it every time I went to 7500 RPM, so it got done 1st thing

 

[Nate_V8]

Yea N/A or bolt-ons I wouldn't bother, even at 7800rpm but if I was throwing on some boost I would do OPG/CS without question. What's another $1000 bucks after dropping the coin for a blower?

 

[SheepDog]

Yea N/A or bolt-ons I wouldn't bother, even at 7800rpm but if I was throwing on some boost I would do OPG/CS without question. What's another $1000 bucks after dropping the coin for a blower?

Yea N/A or bolt-ons I wouldn't bother, even at 7800rpm but if I was throwing on some boost I would do OPG/CS without question. What's another $1000 bucks after dropping the coin for a blower?

NA cars have broken them too. Bouncing off the rev limiter, hard launches or shifts on a dragstrip, etc. Its all about vibration and harmonics. The OEM parts are actually harder than the billet aftermarket options, which makes them brittle. Its some kind of powdered composite nonsense.

If you do it yourself its only 200 or so. More if you buy the "fancy brands"

 

[Nate_V8]

Very few have broken them N/A, you really need to bouncing that limiter hard. An upgraded damper may just be all the insurance needed N/A, and I mean a real damper, not a light weight damper. Ford never got back to me but I'm sure 15-17' can probably buy the OEM '18 fluid damper.and it will bolt right up

 

[JDUBU]

Having just spent close to $1500.00 on OPG and sprocket ( parts and labor ) in prep for boost, I came across this thread that has me second guessing my decision and wondering should I have rolled with the factory hardware? https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/16-gt-sleeved-predator-and-d1x.143471/ . I know the internet is a wealth of knowledge but its also dangerous. I use this forum and others to educate myself before spending good money. Id be curious of what other afterrnarket gears look like on other members cars after 10-15k miles like shown in the thread. I'm not trying to stir up a mess or smear any company. Up until reading that post all I ever read was factory = bad, aftermarket = superior. I am concerned now not because of the money spent but the effort behind it and did I spend good money and time putting in a sub par component?

 

[15GTPP]

My car is currently taken apart right now getting the opg/cs done as well. I also went with Boundary and this now also has me concerned. There has to be a reason as to why they came out with the new black series that are stronger.

 

[Nate_V8]

Well this just took a new turn

 

[Interceptor]

I just did the oil pump gears and timing chain sprocket in my 2019, in conjunction with my Whipple Stage II Gen 5 installation. The oil pan has to be lowered, you just have to remove all of the bolts and pull the pan down in the front.The oil pump won't come out due to the slip fit oil pickup tube. With the oil pan lowered, the pickup tube clears the inlet of the pump and the pump can then be pulled forward on the crankshaft then off.

I did a drop test from about 6' with the stock gear and it took two drops on a concrete surface to split. Pics are below.

Seems you are the only person who actually has broken a gear in this thread, I would think someone would post, " get one because I didn't and now my motor is screwed up"

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