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How to Attached Battery Tender Plus Loop

SSally

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I need to attached my newly ordered Battery Tender Plus using the ring accessory cable, NOT the clips. I have a 2020 Ford Mustang GT. Attached are pictures of the battery setup in the car. There is an obvious silver bolt and screw on the negative post, but not on the positive post. The silver nut on the positive post is connected to a piece that when tightened, secures the clamp to the post. See attached pictures. Is it not possible to use the ring accessory with this set-up?
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SSally

SSally

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Elp_jc

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I like to attach it directly to the battery, with nothing else. That's how the smart chargers work the best. By going to that lower post, it might go thru other electrical components 'corrupting' the exact voltage, etc. Not saying that's the case, but I much rather do it that way, and it's easy. All I did was to cut a slit on the positive terminal, and slid it over the post, and tightened it. It doesn't have 100 surface contact anymore, but more than 90% is more than enough. I then routed the cable under the negative cable (there's space for it, without deforming the sealing rubber of the battery cover at all), and then zip-tie it to an existing factory zip-tie. And changed the cover rubber cap from red to green :D. Oh, and it's an Optimate, like my charger, but the same SAE connector as BT+s.

By the way, I'm probably going to install a Curt hitch to my Bullitt, and use the (lowest) + bolt location on post #2 to power the trailer harness. But will remove the fuse except when I tow something, which will be seldom. Those 'smart' controllers might have parasitic draws all the time, and don't want anything extraneous draining the already super marginal battery :).
 
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SSally

SSally

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I like to attach it directly to the battery, with nothing else. That's how the smart chargers work the best. By going to that lower post, it might go thru other electrical components 'corrupting' the exact voltage, etc. Not saying that's the case, but I much rather do it that way, and it's easy. All I did was to cut a slit on the positive terminal, and slid it over the post, and tightened it. It doesn't have 100 surface contact anymore, but more than 90% is more than enough. I then routed the cable under the negative cable (there's space for it, without deforming the sealing rubber of the battery cover at all), and then zip-tie it to an existing factory zip-tie. And changed the cover rubber cap from red to green :D. Oh, and it's an Optimate, like my charger, but the same SAE connector as BT+s.

By the way, I'm probably going to install a Curt hitch to my Bullitt, and use the (lowest) + bolt location on post #2 to power the trailer harness. But will remove the fuse except when I tow something, which will be seldom. Those 'smart' controllers might have parasitic draws all the time, and don't want anything extraneous draining the already super marginal battery :).
Thanks for your input, but I'm not sure I understand your process. When you say, "cut a slit on the positive terminal" do you mean the BT positive loop? If so, not sure how that would allow the loop to fit over the positive battery post. The BT loop has a circumference of my little finger while the battery post has a circumference of my thumb. Maybe a picture would help?
 

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Elp_jc

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Not the post. The nut that tightens the positive cable to the battery post, under the red cover. You need a 10mm socket/wrench to loosen it. Cut twice the BT+ (or whatever brand it is) ring terminal at the front to make space to slide it over the post (and under the nut), then tighten the nut back, and you're done. And then I bent the terminal down so the red cover could close like before. It's like 100deg in my garage now, and need to leave soon, but the above should be enough to figure it out :). Good luck.
 
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SSally

SSally

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Not the post. The nut that tightens the positive cable to the battery post, under the red cover. You need a 10mm socket/wrench to loosen it. Cut twice the BT+ (or whatever brand it is) ring terminal at the front to make space to slide it over the post (and under the nut), then tighten the nut back, and you're done. And then I bent the terminal down so the red cover could close like before. It's like 100deg in my garage now, and need to leave soon, but the above should be enough to figure it out :). Good luck.
Ah, got it now. Thanks.
 

m3incorp

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That nut on the positve terminal is a hot lead. I have my audio amplifier connected to it for power with no issues
 

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That nut on the positve terminal is a hot lead. I have my audio amplifier connected to it for power with no issues
Indeed. But smart battery chargers are super sensitive, so it's much better to hook them directly to the battery. This car could be different, but I've always had issues when connected to secondary sources near the battery. And it's a more convenient place anyway. But to each his own, I guess :).
 

m3incorp

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No arguments here. The only car I have on a charger is the Vette, but it has a plug in the rear that is designed for the charger to be plugged in to. The only reason it is on a charger is that while I'm working in GA, it is not driven for 2-3 months at a time. The VW started right up after not having been driven for 3 months except one start up and an hour drive in the middle of those three months. I typically drive the Mustang only Fri-Sun and so far it is doing fine. If I find that I need a trickle charger I will probably get the CTEK....Never know how it might act during the winter months.
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