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Widest setup with bagged suspension

TheTxPilot

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I posted this question several months ago in the suspension sub forum and got one response. It was helpful but still looking for advice.
I have a 2019 GT Vert. Does anyonek the widest rear setup I can (should) do with a bagged mustang. I don't want to do any body mods and ide like to air out the car at shows. Can anyone recommend a wheel deminsion with recommend positive offset and backspacing? Ide really like to squeeze the widest tire in the back.
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KRGT

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I did the lowest cost option to get the 305 tire in the rear. Swapped the Performance Pack rears to the front with a 25 mm spacer. Put a Performance Pack style 19x10 in the rear. Front tire is 255 on the 19x9.5 but the rim WILL NOT clear the Air Lift strut without the spacer. As you can see from the pics there is still some room for the fender but this is about as far as I am willing to get when I air out. Rear 305 tire is practically flush so no spacer is needed. These are all with the rear rim having a 48 mm offset and the front 35 mm. Offset is the key and you will just have to research other members wheel combinations. Hope this helps.

20200519_132737.jpg
 
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TheTxPilot

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I did the lowest cost option to get the 305 tire in the rear. Swapped the Performance Pack rears to the front with a 25 mm spacer. Put a Performance Pack style 19x10 in the rear. Front tire is 255 on the 19x9.5 but the rim WILL NOT clear the Air Lift strut without the spacer. As you can see from the pics there is still some room for the fender but this is about as far as I am willing to get when I air out. Rear 305 tire is practically flush so no spacer is needed. These are all with the rear rim having a 48 mm offset and the front 35 mm. Offset is the key and you will just have to research other members wheel combinations. Hope this helps.

20200519_132737.jpg
Thanks! So just to be clear. You have a 19x10 inch wheel with 48 mm offset and a 305 wide tire? And you can still air the suspension out? I'm not worried about the front as I will keep it a 9 in. wide rim and 265 tire.
 

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Correct, the 305 will be flush and clear fine. I don't think you would be able to go much wider though without rolling fenders or getting a widebody kit. Also keep in mind that when getting Air Suspension, if you drive at a height other than stock height you are completely changing the geometry and feel of the car. I had the two rear hubs go out already and have had to get a lot of suspension parts to get the car back to performance driving.
 
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TheTxPilot

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Correct, the 305 will be flush and clear fine. I don't think you would be able to go much wider though without rolling fenders or getting a widebody kit. Also keep in mind that when getting Air Suspension, if you drive at a height other than stock height you are completely changing the geometry and feel of the car. I had the two rear hubs go out already and have had to get a lot of suspension parts to get the car back to performance driving.
I don't really get this. There are a ton of lowered mustangs our there. Is there something specific with the air suspension being lowered that would cause damage vs regular lowering springs?
 

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KRGT

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Yes since lowering springs will only be around a 1 - 1.5 in drop. Airing out constantly (which is the point =] ) will put a lot more strain on parts that were never designed to be that low. I experienced a "death wobble" when I discovered my rear hubs were shot. You can check out this thread which they experienced the same issue: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-death-wobble.125276/. People on lowering springs more than a 1 in drop would also experience worse handling but a lot of people just ignore this. If you want to keep the performance handling while driving lower then be prepared to change sway bars, endlinks, control arms, toe links, vertical links, hubs, etc. If you ride at normal ride height then the handling won't really be that different and you won't have to change much.
 
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TheTxPilot

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Yes since lowering springs will only be around a 1 - 1.5 in drop. Airing out constantly (which is the point =] ) will put a lot more strain on parts that were never designed to be that low. I experienced a "death wobble" when I discovered my rear hubs were shot. You can check out this thread which they experienced the same issue: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-death-wobble.125276/. People on lowering springs more than a 1 in drop would also experience worse handling but a lot of people just ignore this. If you want to keep the performance handling while driving lower then be prepared to change sway bars, endlinks, control arms, toe links, vertical links, hubs, etc. If you ride at normal ride height then the handling won't really be that different and you won't have to change much.
Thanks for the info. I might air it out once a month. And not sure exactly what ride height I drive around at. I'll need to look into this.
 

KRGT

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These are my current presets:
Air Out - 25 PSI all around
Lowered driving - 55 PSI front, 65 PSI rear
Monster Truck high setting (mostly for clearing speed bumps) - 75 PSI front, 85 PSI rear
To fit my jack - 110 PSI all around

FYI make sure to have the water trap installed correctly and drain the water from the tank weekly at least. This will cause damage to your manifold if you don't.
 
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TheTxPilot

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Thanks. I believe my settings are very similar all though now I will only air out to 25psi. Everytime I drain the air looking for moisture nothing comes out. It's the same thing with my big compressor in my garage. Humidity is pretty low where I live.

I may just go in and replace some parts in the rear. Are there some good quality upgraded parts that can take the air suspension ups and downs better than factory?
 

KRGT

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I have seen posts about rear hubs and some say the Ford ones are the exact same as the ones I buy: TIMKEN part# HA590577
For $40 they have lasted about a year and if they go bad again I just do the work myself and $80 later they will be good.
Not even sure if better quality hubs will be able to last longer anyways so I am content with the TIMKEN ones.
 

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TheTxPilot

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I have seen posts about rear hubs and some say the Ford ones are the exact same as the ones I buy: TIMKEN part# HA590577
For $40 they have lasted about a year and if they go bad again I just do the work myself and $80 later they will be good.
Not even sure if better quality hubs will be able to last longer anyways so I am content with the TIMKEN ones.
Thanks. I feel dumb asking this as I am pretty good working on cars and such, how can you tell if the hub should be replaced. I plan on taking the wheels off and doing a good inspection of all parts back there today. You got me worried now!
 
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TheTxPilot

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I found this video. . I'll go see what min do.
 

KRGT

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No worries and trust me it is better you ask now then find out later. It is super simple....jack up the rear, glab the tire and try to shake it. If it moves at all then most likely the hub is bad. My rear passenger was bad but I decided to replace both since the other would probably go out too. A lot of people will replace the hub axle nut too since those are one time use parts. If you remove the axle nut you really should replace it. Just make sure to torque that puppy to spec because it is REALLY IMPORTANT.
 
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TheTxPilot

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Everything checked out fine. I do only have 1500 Miles on it. But will definitely be taking the rears off every oil change now.
 

S550Will

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Im bagged as well. Tires tuck really nice and I'm on a 20" wheel running a 275/35ZR20 Michelin pilot sport 4s.
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