Clunk when braking at slow speeds to come to a stop

[Nuked]

So the drama continues. To recap had a local shop install shocks/struts, springs and the Steeda lower control arms. I am noticing a clunk from the front that happens when coming to a stop and you apply the brake with a little force. Clunk is directly affected by braking (can make it happen easily if rolling to a stop). This only happens going forward though, when in reverse it does not do it. My first thought was top strut mount bolt, but it was tight. Don't have access to an impact but tried to tighten with a 12" breaker bar, no dice wouldn't budge. I took both front wheels off and inspected everything, with nothing being loose. Any ideas?

Sponsored

 

[Nuked]

So to bump this back up. Finally got a chance to get the car in the air and do some inspecting. Everything looked fine and tight aside from noticing the spring on the front strut is not tight when the strut is fully extended. You could move it with your hand. Never seen this happen before, any ideas?

 

[ShadowFox]

So to bump this back up. Finally got a chance to get the car in the air and do some inspecting. Everything looked fine and tight aside from noticing the spring on the front strut is not tight when the strut is fully extended. You could move it with your hand. Never seen this happen before, any ideas?

Did you ever figure out the cause for this? Running into something similar if not the same.

 

[Nuked]

Ball joint on the tension arm was bad.

 

[baazooka]

Ball joint on the tension arm was bad.

How many miles? Driven hard?

 

[ShadowFox]

Yeah I looked at that today and it’s probably the same. Just realized I accidentally ordered steeda vertical links instead of the tension arms so I guess I’ll get two new parts lol.

FWIW, 56K miles, driven like a bat outta hell overseas cruising average 100-120 mph with common stints of 140-170

 

[HarmonatoR]

I've got a similar issue as well, and I've checked the suspension several times looking for something loose but never found anything. I've had this problem for years now and could never seem to figure it out - thought it was just a sloppy install of my lowering springs. I'll check it out again with this new clue. Thanks for posting that video clip, @ShadowFox !

For reference, here's a diagram to help identify the tension link.

 

[MidnightStars]

Started having the same symptoms with mine at about 47k miles. When I went in for an alignment, tech pointed out the worn tension links on both sides and suggested replacing them before doing an alignment, otherwise whatever's dialed in could easily be thrown out the window once it rolls.

Debating whether to do it myself--I've never worked on a car in my life, but I got to start somewhere. I can't possibly screw up replacing a tension link (lower forward control arm?), right?

Item #2 Suspension Components for 2016 Ford Mustang | TascaParts.com

May replace them with either Ford Performance, or Steeda: Steeda 555 4909 Mustang Front Control Arms Lateral and Tension Links w/ Bearings (15-22)

Edit: Just realised this thread's from 2020

 

[HarmonatoR]

Edit: Just realised this thread's from 2020

Don't worry about the age, @ShadowFox resurrected this thread on Sunday and I'm super glad that he did because it finally gave me a clue as to what I've been experiencing. I have time tonight after work to look into this and I'll respond tomorrow with what I find.

This looks like a very straight-forward job to replace. Dead simple. Especially after just recently installing headers... sheesh.

 

[MidnightStars]

Don't worry about the age, @ShadowFox resurrected this thread on Sunday and I'm super glad that he did because it finally gave me a clue as to what I've been experiencing. I have time tonight after work to look into this and I'll respond tomorrow with what I find.

This looks like a very straight-forward job to replace. Dead simple. Especially after just recently installing headers... sheesh.

Let us know how it goes!
I only have a jack & jackstands. May have to buy a second jack to put a simulated load on the suspension to get the final torque just right--curious to know if it can be done on the ground, without an entire car lift.

 

[ShadowFox]

Don't worry about the age, @ShadowFox resurrected this thread on Sunday and I'm super glad that he did because it finally gave me a clue as to what I've been experiencing. I have time tonight after work to look into this and I'll respond tomorrow with what I find.

This looks like a very straight-forward job to replace. Dead simple. Especially after just recently installing headers... sheesh.

Installing headers on this car was a HUGE pain in the ass... wasn't expecting it to be such a tight fit. I custom made some wrenches with a torch to get them to fit.

I'll be ordering the right parts tonight and hopefully they come soon... I have the full IRS stop the hop kit that I need to install that I ordered over a year ago as well.

 

[HarmonatoR]

Well well... what do you know? Finally, after all these years, the problem is found! I checked the driver's side as well, no noise over there. Time to hit up RockAuto.com.


.

Thanks @Nuked and @ShadowFox !!

 

[Nuked]

Mine were low mile (30k or so) but I had a shop install shocks/struts/springs and it was immediate that the sound started. I am guessing for whatever reason they removed the ball joint from the spindle and beat the shit out of it with a hammer causing the problem.

For what it is worth, I replaced mine with a set from Rock Auto that had zirk fittings. Was basically same price as others. I also had the Steed Anti-Roll arms installed and swapped them for a set from Rock Auto with Zirk fittings at the same time (when ordered wasn't sure what was bad).

 

[MidnightStars]

Well well... what do you know? Finally, after all these years, the problem is found! I checked the driver's side as well, no noise over there. Time to hit up RockAuto.com.


.

Thanks @Nuked and @ShadowFox !!

Poggers! Mine went bad too. Funny thing is, when it was double checked by Ford during my oil change the other day, there was ZERO play when it was in the air. They only checked it because the tech also felt the funky vibrations/clunking as he was pulling in the car.

As he put the car back down, and rolled it, you could see the deflection in the ball joints.

Weird stuff xD

 

[HarmonatoR]

Just wanted to provide an update.

I got a simple Dorman (part 526266 / 526-266) replacement from Rockauto.com and installed it yesterday. 185 ft/lbs is pretty serious on that inboard bolt! New part worked like a charm.

Problem is totally resolved now! Bumps, breaking, and steering are all vastly improved. No more noise, no more deflection. I'm super happy.

Sponsored