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What parts should I not polish?

17gt_charlotte

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I have an “absolute black” 2017 gt and the owner before me did not take care of the paint at all. There are swirls everywhere on the car and with the car being black, it seriously shows. I did not really mind at first as I was just happy to have the car, but now I’d like to treat her to a nice detail with a polish. For those who have polished the car, are there any areas I should avoid other than the plastic trim? For example is the trunk decklid safe of a no go? What about the factory spoiler? Also are there any waxes/glazes that would be a good product for my black car? This mustang is a daily driver so I’m looking for something that will help protect as well as bring a shine to the paint. Thank you :)
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Rapid Red

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I have an “absolute black” 2017 gt and the owner before me did not take care of the paint at all. There are swirls everywhere on the car and with the car being black, it seriously shows. I did not really mind at first as I was just happy to have the car, but now I’d like to treat her to a nice detail with a polish. For those who have polished the car, are there any areas I should avoid other than the plastic trim? For example is the trunk decklid safe of a no go? What about the factory spoiler? Also are there any waxes/glazes that would be a good product for my black car? This mustang is a daily driver so I’m looking for something that will help protect as well as bring a shine to the paint. Thank you :)

Here is the best stuff for the trim plastic... bar none found @ O'Reilly Auto Parts. If the swirl marks are just in the clear coat, pay someone to buff them out.

IMG_0279.jpeg
 
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Rapid Red

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Getting the swirl marks buffed out, just a suggestion. Do not grab some guy off of craigslist.. Done right swirl marks can be removed.

Done wrong, clear coat could be damaged, thinned and start to lift. Ever see car going down the road with a white fading across the hood or roof? As if was water blowing off that is a clear coat failing

Be smart look around, visit a body shop or 2, 3or4, listen and ask for suggestion.

Start on the trim, it will motivate you. I find squirting a quater size wet spot on a micro fiber rag, wiping it on the trim. You will use less, and control where it goes.

This 303 you will read does not dry, you wipe it on, following up with a dry micro fiber rag, and wipe until dry.

If the trim is graying, first application may not bring it back, no worry go back a week later, hit it again. It will clean up nicely.

Good luck enjoy the car, you will turn it around.

Cheers,
Greg
 

dh3605

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I had some swirls in my shadow black F150 and decided to do it myself. Watched some videos, bought a polisher, pads, polish and it turned out fantastic. Not hard to do and for me was very enjoyable.
Used Griot Garage G 9 polisher with orange correcting pad and Sonax perfect polish. Topped it off with Collinite 845 wax.
 

Strokerswild

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Do it yourself, it's not hard, plus then you learn something and have the pride of having done it yourself. It's actually kind of fun.

I second a Griots polisher and pads, I also have a G9 and love it.
 

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Riley

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I have an “absolute black” 2017 gt and the owner before me did not take care of the paint at all. There are swirls everywhere on the car and with the car being black, it seriously shows. I did not really mind at first as I was just happy to have the car, but now I’d like to treat her to a nice detail with a polish. For those who have polished the car, are there any areas I should avoid other than the plastic trim? For example is the trunk decklid safe of a no go? What about the factory spoiler? Also are there any waxes/glazes that would be a good product for my black car? This mustang is a daily driver so I’m looking for something that will help protect as well as bring a shine to the paint. Thank you :)
Pretty much anything paint is perfectly fine to compound/polish just be careful, I wouldn't recommend a rotary buffer if you're new
but I would try a random da polisher, such as griots g21, rupes, flex, etc. There's some informative detailing websites you can get some help as well.
I'm not sure how far you want to go but it can get pretty involved . Also as far as waxes I like using collnite 845 or meguiars new hybrid ceramic wax there both great and
provide great protection.
 

Rapid Red

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Pretty much anything paint is perfectly fine to compound/polish just be careful, I wouldn't recommend a rotary buffer if you're new
but I would try a random da polisher,
such as griots g21, rupes, flex, etc. There's some informative detailing websites you can get some help as well.
I'm not sure how far you want to go but it can get pretty involved . Also as far as waxes I like using collnite 845 or meguiars new hybrid ceramic wax there both great and
provide great protection.

I will go one step further, suggest hand waxing, less chance of getting into trouble. Grow with the process, learn what to expect.

How to tell when the wax is ready to be buffed, removed.
Start buffing, removing the wax too soon It will seem like it takes forever getting the wax off. " wax on wax off"

That is because if not dried, you're just smearing wax around, not removing it.

Actually the hardest part of waxing is removing the wax. You can go back over the car 3 times, before it is all removed. Fresh towel is suggested to be used each time. The towel will load up with wax.

Be advised:
Rear spoiler and panel on the back of the trunk, is plastic...SOFT scratches easily = no hard rubbing

After you make up your mind regarding a brand.
Apply some wax 2 ft area, not heavy, more is not better.
Let it haze, when you think it's ready wait 10 more min. Notice if it smears or wipes clean. The latter indicates the wax is ready to be removed, smears wait a few. try again.

It is not rocket science, "wax on (wet) wax off (dry)"

Forget 100 + dollar buffers, along with extra cost, & confusion. As to what pad material is used when, until later.

Learn to wax first, then start thinking about how to
approach the swirl marks. Lots of info here, lots of confusion, to sort and digest.

Start simple, tools: wax, rag (applicator), towel(s) removal.

Do not apply wax using a circular pattern/motion ..... back and forth .



 
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17gt_charlotte

17gt_charlotte

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Pretty much anything paint is perfectly fine to compound/polish just be careful, I wouldn't recommend a rotary buffer if you're new
but I would try a random da polisher, such as griots g21, rupes, flex, etc. There's some informative detailing websites you can get some help as well.
I'm not sure how far you want to go but it can get pretty involved . Also as far as waxes I like using collnite 845 or meguiars new hybrid ceramic wax there both great and
provide great protection.
Thank you. I bought a da polisher (torq10x) and before I polished I was just wondering if any fellow mustang owners who have polished their car have any tips about which areas may be difficult or if there even are any.
 

Riley

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Thank you. I bought a da polisher (torq10x) and before I polished I was just wondering if any fellow mustang owners who have polished their car have any tips about which areas may be difficult or if there even are any.
The only areas really are mainly just curves/edges sometimes with D A polishers will 'stall' meaning not spin
sometimes its a good idea to mark the rubber backing plate to see if its spinning or not sometimes you have to lessen the pressure to keep it spinning to achieve
any correction, lighting is also great so you can see if you are happy/getting the swirls/scratches out.

Masking the car is a great idea so you don't get any compound/polish on the trims or rubber seals. Would recommend only to mask what you will get done that day
I normally don't like to leave tape on for too long specially if its been repainted .
 

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Rapid Red

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Another +1 for using 303 protectant. I use this product also in my tires and interior pieces.
Also have used it on some interior parts.... not tires, thought about it.
 

Rapid Red

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Works great on tires. It leaves a nice matte finish.

Our XE with an application of 303.

apr226.jpg


apr227.jpg
Have always used westleys bleach white. After washing the rims and tires, when dry apply the westleys, tires look like natural rubber.

Sadly, lately "Black Magic" was added to the Westleys bleach white, name.

Most youtube tire cleaner experts, focus on the removal of the brown. Complaining the product is not what it once was.

My focus, using it as a tire dressing.

With that in mind rolled out the HotRod, dressed the tires. Did that because if the Westley's product had changed, and most likely it has.

The question is will it affect results for which it is used by me... picture say no and I agree.

DSC_0104.jpg


DSC_0105.jpg
 
 




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