Helios
Well-Known Member
Yes alot of work, shop charges eight hours of time for install.Damn... I’ve never done that before lol
I guess ima get some hands on education!
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Yes alot of work, shop charges eight hours of time for install.Damn... I’ve never done that before lol
I guess ima get some hands on education!
Just installed mine on my 2019. I did stainless power. Installed on jackstands. Wasn’t bad at all. Once you have it on stands, remove intake and lower intake box. Then remove battery cover, battery, battery box and pull the two clips on ur pass side cowl. Then remove the Blk plate that is between the battery and motor. Then remove motor mount nuts (15mm) from up top. Remove cat back. Optional...(loosen the two nuts on trans crossmember) helps when lifting motor... then use a piece of 2x4 and position floor jack with 2x4 on bellhousing n have someone slowly raise engine while you watch from below. I raise to where motor mount studs aren’t poking out of the mount plates.... DS- Mark n separate the steering linkage top bolt. You can remove quite a few nuts from above on this manifold. Rest easy from below. Then from below, remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the motor mount plate. Of course disconnect O2 plugs. One all nuts are off it comes right out. Do not need to remove any studs from driver side. Unless you plan to use something diff. Header goes in just as easy as it came out. Put 4 bolts back in motor mount. Passenger side is a diff story. Remove starter, then motor mount. Basically the same but tighter and all studs have to be removed after the nuts. I found it difficult to get the top front stud n nut but I finally got a ratchet n hands there from underneath. Now once you get that POS outta there. Follow the A/C lines going towards the firewall. You will see a stud n 10mm nut sticking out toward where header will sit. Remove nut and stud is slide clip. Slides n pops off (known to cause false knock). You will have to drop motor about a 1/2” or so for header to clear. Lift er up with gasket n try n get a stud started or bolt and go from there. Front top one was a pain. However. I was able to use studs in all of em except top two center holes, had to use bolts. You can actually reach 3 if not all four from above. I also did the proper x pattern working my way from middle outward when tightening. Once ur done there it’s just putting back together. Easy. Be sure to re tighten trans nuts if you loosened em.
Tools that will save ur azz
13mm & 15mm flex head wrench, swivel head 3/8 ratchet, 1/4 wrench, E8 socket, long extensions and a swivel adapter for sockets.
starting to gather all the tools for this. All my tools are a thousand miles away and at this point they are my dads lolJust installed mine on my 2019. I did stainless power. Installed on jackstands. Wasn’t bad at all. Once you have it on stands, remove intake and lower intake box. Then remove battery cover, battery, battery box and pull the two clips on ur pass side cowl. Then remove the Blk plate that is between the battery and motor. Then remove motor mount nuts (15mm) from up top. Remove cat back. Optional...(loosen the two nuts on trans crossmember) helps when lifting motor... then use a piece of 2x4 and position floor jack with 2x4 on bellhousing n have someone slowly raise engine while you watch from below. I raise to where motor mount studs aren’t poking out of the mount plates.... DS- Mark n separate the steering linkage top bolt. You can remove quite a few nuts from above on this manifold. Rest easy from below. Then from below, remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the motor mount plate. Of course disconnect O2 plugs. One all nuts are off it comes right out. Do not need to remove any studs from driver side. Unless you plan to use something diff. Header goes in just as easy as it came out. Put 4 bolts back in motor mount. Passenger side is a diff story. Remove starter, then motor mount. Basically the same but tighter and all studs have to be removed after the nuts. I found it difficult to get the top front stud n nut but I finally got a ratchet n hands there from underneath. Now once you get that POS outta there. Follow the A/C lines going towards the firewall. You will see a stud n 10mm nut sticking out toward where header will sit. Remove nut and stud is slide clip. Slides n pops off (known to cause false knock). You will have to drop motor about a 1/2” or so for header to clear. Lift er up with gasket n try n get a stud started or bolt and go from there. Front top one was a pain. However. I was able to use studs in all of em except top two center holes, had to use bolts. You can actually reach 3 if not all four from above. I also did the proper x pattern working my way from middle outward when tightening. Once ur done there it’s just putting back together. Easy. Be sure to re tighten trans nuts if you loosened em.
Tools that will save ur azz
13mm & 15mm flex head wrench, swivel head 3/8 ratchet, 1/4 wrench, E8 socket, long extensions and a swivel adapter for sockets.
starting to gather all the tools for this. All my tools are a thousand miles away and at this point they are my dads lol
Still waiting on lethal performance to ship my exhaust. What’s the difference between E8 socket and torx?
Nice, yeah I never removed studs so I’m kinda hesitant but it seems easy enough. I assume you tighten everything down to “tight enough” since it’s an aluminum block and it’s not like ima get a torque wrench in there lolYeah, the stock studs just unscrew out of the heads. It’s best to remove as many as needed to get the stock header out. I removed all stock studs on my passenger side. Much more room on driver side.
Shit.... I was following the CJ pony parts video and he took it off...ummmm.... Someone correct me if I am wrong but I dont recall ever removing that..... Just the nut on the center of the mount.... Followed by the 3-4 bolts holding the bracket to the block... After raising the engine of course.
I removed the nut from the mounts on each side to get the brackets off. I loosened the two bolts hold the mount to the frame so I could wiggle the mount a bit when installing the bracket with the long tubes on the car. They are tough to turn. I would try to thread the bolt back in a bit using a breaker bar instead of the impact.Shit.... I was following the CJ pony parts video and he took it off...