Need help understanding Drag Racing and Automatics

[Fly2High]

In looking various new release threads, there is often so much talk and desire for cars that are automatic and for drag racing. I would sincerely like to understand them. I am new to the muscle car arena. Getting a GT was a dream come true. Now, I would like to understand certain aspects better which brings me to this thread on drag racing with a focus on automatic transmissions.

I will only be talking about stock, unmodified cars here. Of course, we can always modify any car, manual or automatic and make it faster than what the dealer sells. I want this focus to be on stock cars, not modified ones.

I am more of a track guy in interest where I feel that it is more obvious that a great car doesn't guarantee a win. There is still so much driver input and skill needed to win a race. Having a fast car is only part of the equation. Driving skill is still paramount.

I do not understand the skill required in drag racing, especially with an automatic. Could I have someone explain to me what it takes. Part of this, I have listed several questions below that I would also like explained to me so I can better understand what a drag guy is looking for in a dealer sold car and maybe better appreciate drag racing.

I have a cousin years before automatics were faster than manuals, installed in the reworked family cruiser an automatic and a .050 bored over 383. He could get the wheels off the ground and it ended up pulling low tens. This was a '86 Caprice Classic. Total sleeper. He said he installed the automatic because he knew he could get repeatable times. He did not have to worry about skipping a shift or not shifting just right and losing a race. He knew that his deviation in times were tighter than just about every manual guy and if they were close in performance and they were not perfect, he could beat them. He could pull the same times over and over based on what was capable of that day and track conditions, barely deviating higher or lower on each pull.. The automatic made him more repeatable. He could,at the time, install a manual and improve his drag times but it would require him to improve and maintain his skill. The auto reduced the number of variables to make his times repeatable.

How many want an automatic drag car because it is currently the fastest dealer optioned car, because it is more repeatable or for some other reason(lack of skill in a manual, no time to develop a skill, etc)?

With all the nannies to help with launch control, etc. will the sport of drag racing turn into being a spec sheet comparison? If the computer is controlling the launch and two cars pull up to the line with well maintained cars, won't the one with the better specs win? If Car A is 2/10th of a second faster than Car B and both are automatics, you know that you already lost before the green falls. What is the point of racing? You lost before you got started. Cars are doing more with computers so that going fast and actually hitting the car magazine specs is becoming a reality.

What is the point of racing, other than the pure enjoyment and thrill of flying down the track, when you know that the car next to you was manufactured to beat yours and both are autos with launch control? What I mean is, it sounds to me that most are not in drag racing for the thrill of the drive. they are looking for every tenth of a second for the win. Those that love the drive, do not need a new car to be the very fastest. they only need it to be equal or better than what they have now. If they were into the drive, they would not constantly bring up the small margin of improvement an auto has today over a manual. The real thrill is in the drive, not how you drive.

With electrics being stupid fast. Will drag guys eventually give up ICE cars in order to get to the next level of performance especially since you can buy a Tesla right now and already kill everyone in the 1/4?

In comparison to driving at a track with all the twists and turns, drag racing to me is a floor stomp straight line drive. The feeling of being connected with a car, to me, is more felt in track than drag. Can you describe what it means to feel connected with your drag car, especially an automatic drag car? When I drive my manual, I am one with the car. Does it really matter if you feel connected? (I am not saying an emotional connection either - we all feel emotionally connected with our cars. I am talking about the driving experience).

How often do you replace a drag car? How much is it because it is worn out or is it because you started to lose races and need something faster? I seriously do not know the turnover rate of a car that has bee drag raced and I wonder how often it is because a faster car came out and it is the win that is more so desired.

If Mustangs were to start being the slightly slower drag car, for whatever reason, would you still buy them knowing that every time you race against cars X,Y and Z, you were going to lose? I am sure there are those who are fan boys and I am not talking about those guys. I am looking at those who buy the car as a tool to enjoy drag racing only. If your tool was inadequate, would you not buy something else? Is the thrill of having the fastest stock car more important to a drag racer than the car? I guess the real question here is what is it you look for in a drag car? It cannot just be the 1/4 mile times.

How many daily drive their tracked drag car? I am not asking about the stop light heroes. I am asking those who take it to the drag strip an actually race the car. Do you also daily drive it or does it just sit on the side, like a tennis racket or golf clubs until you decide to go 'play'? Do you do anything to prep a car for drag day vs daily drive?

Why is it so important to buy a stock car that has the best numbers today when tomorrow, something WILL come out with better specs and beat you very shortly down the line? I find auto guys tend to be hung up on the fact that they are the fastest. Tomorrow, they won't be and they won't be if they go up against a guy who put a little wrench time and tuning even if it might be a manual. Are automatic driver and/or drag car guys hung up on published 1/4 mile times?

I read that it is better to have smaller diameter wheels with larger tires on a drag car for the slingshot effect. Why as so many guys wanting handling packages and big diameter wheels with skinny tires if they desire to drag a car? the CobraJet Mustang drag car is the opposite of what so many drag guys seem to want. That car had a larger diameter rear wheel with far smaller wheels , in ratio, than what most GTs have, especially the ones with 'packages' or Shelby in their names.

I wonder beside stoplight racing, how many guys who are hung up with the fastest spec sheet actually use the car at the track? If a few tenths of a second mean everything, does that hinder your desire to buy since they are always talking about the next car coming soon being so much better than what is out now.

Does having a factory car with a warranty matter to you when you go dragging? Do you feel that you are taking advantage of the manufacturer a bit since you are severely beating on the car and you are not paying for the repairs and maintenance yourself? I see all pro teams do their own parts replacement and over the years, if you blow a tranny or engine or whatever, it was on you to tow the car home and fix it. Is it partly because so many people like to drive at the drag strip but do not have the skill to maintain a car? Of course to pay someone else to fix your car would quickly get cost prohibitive.

Isn't part of drag racing having the ability to wrench and repair your own car or at least have someone who can teach you? I ask because I find so many people these days who cannot change the oil or a tire much less replace an alternator, redo the brakes or God forbid, rebuild a tranny.

Is it important to drag guys to be able to buy a car from the dealership and then be able to go straight to the track? In the old days, part of the fun was modifying your car. Has modifying a car to improve it been lost?

Please forgive me if I sound defensive. Not meant to. I can only express myself from the side of the fence I have been on. Maybe if I get a better understanding, I can better appreciate the 'next 1/4 mile' and be more supportive of your camp.

Sorry it turned into a lot of questions. As I looked at various things, it got me thinking about more questions. I am sure there will be more to come. Please honestly answer what you feel and maybe you will get a few more track guys into your corner or at least help others understand your needs.

With much appreciation,
Frank

Sponsored

 

[Shifting_Gears]

In short, there’s several types of drag racers:

For fun only
Those that want to beat their own best time
Bracket racers
People that want the fastest car at the track
Professional racers

Auto cars largely take the human error out of launching and shifting. This creates consistency which becomes a big factor in winning (especially in bracket racing, where it’s not about what car is faster, but most consistent).

Depending on the car, the drivetrain (FWD, RWD, AWD) the power, the electronic aids, etc there’s certainly skill needed to properly launch an auto car.

When you get into gearing, high-stall converters, trans brakes, etc the auto becomes much more “hands on” than just floor it and go.

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

Even on the track automatics are faster. Look at Porsche and it’s PDK transmissions, while you have to hold your gear through a turn a pdk can shift so fast that it can shift through the turn without upsetting the car and therefore accelerate faster out of the corner. Then in the straights it shifts so much faster without driver error. Overall modern automatics and DCT transmissions are just getting a lot better. The standard automatic might not be there yet in terms of track duty but a DCT absolutely kills a manual. Sure some might say it doesn’t engage the driver as much but to me it would be more fun to be able to push the limits of the suspension and engine without the transmission or driver being the limiting factor.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

As the first reply, a lot of it has to do with what type of drag racing you do. for me personally, its not about brackets and making money, it is about bragging rights, being faster. BUT, by doing it myself more than just relying on some nannies and high tech. Hell, I used to drag race my stock '02 V6 F-150. And had bragging rights because I was pulling times .4s faster than the other guys with similar trucks. yeah, I couldn't beat anything else at the track. My drag cars will for the most part be sticks, and big motors. and relying on that and personal skill to make it down because that is what I find entertaining. And because they are DDs, and I want to have some of that same enjoyment on the road, so I'll likely never have a sub 10 second car, because that's a pita to drive on your morning commute.

 

[Balr14]

You sound like the typical manual transmission fan who can't get past the fact they are outdated. A modern automatic can do everything you can do with a manual transmission, it just doesn't need a third pedal. It is much faster, much more consistent, more reliable, no drive train stress and won't allow you to damage your engine with a blown shift. It still requires as much driver skill on the track, it just doesn't need a clutch pedal to shift. Plus you can keep both hands on the wheel, so it is safer and allows more steering input.

I have driven track and drag raced. First of all, there are just people who want to go to the drag strip just to see how fast their car is.They aren't serious about it, just having a little fun. These are the guys with the PP1 and PP2 cars with wheels and tires that are useless for drag racing. But, they pay the majority of the fees that keep the tracks open. When you get serious about drag racing, regardless of class, the skill set gets more significant. Driving on a track, you make a lot of little mistakes (brake too soon or to late, wrong apex, shift a little late, etc, etc.). But you keep going and you make it up. In drag racing, a tiny mistake means you lose, no chance to make up for it. All I have to do is leave the line a .10 second late, or lose traction for a fraction of a second... better luck next time. You have to know how to line up, where to line up, which lane is best, what tire pressure, how to launch under different conditions; similar to what you need to know driving on a track. But the biggest thing you have to learn is how fast things are when you cover 1/4 mile at 120 or more mph. By the time you can react, you have traveled 300 feet. On a track, you have adequate time to get used to speed. In drag racing, no chance. On a good day, you may get 10 passes, or two minutes, over a lot of hours.

As far as abuse goes, if you drag race a manual transmission, odds are real good Ford will refuse any claims you make. With an automatic, chances for abuse are much less. If you break an axle because of wheel hop, that's probably on you.

A Tesla is not a good drag racing car. You only get one or two runs before it needs a battery change. Maybe that will change in the future. Ford has several electric Mustangs for drag racing. But, the ICE is probably doomed for all types of motor sports. That's a whole other topic.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I do not understand the skill required in drag racing, especially with an automatic. Could I have someone explain to me what it takes.

The first thing that comes to mind is that the driver still has to work within the available traction at the drive tires. This is obviously a trickier task when the car is more powerful. It would be fair to say that keeping your drive tires operating at their optimum slip% at the strip is no less demanding than keeping road-race tires operating at their optimum slip angle at Watkins Glen or Laguna Seca. Using all that they can give you, without stepping past their peaks and putting yourself on the back side of the tire grip curve.


I can see where it might be easy to dismiss drag racing as not being all that demanding of driver skill. And maybe in its lower levels it is. While it's true that screwing up one run doesn't have to affect anything past that one run, screwing up one corner affect at least the next straight and would trash a lap that was on the way to becoming a new personal best. Don't forget that drag racing is head-to-head competition and that typical dragstrip timing has been to the 0.001 second, either. Meaning that 'errors' in using all available grip - either not using it all or trying to use too much - will show up, and you're not likely to be able to recover solely on your own.

Trust me, the writing was already on the wall as far as automatics ultimately dominating at drag racing at least as far back as the latter half of the 1960's. But you had to put any preference for doing all of your own shifting aside and look at the automatic for the advantages that it potentially had. I say 'potentially' mainly because at that time actual AT development hadn't exactly caught up.


Norm

 

[dn1984]

buying the 10 speed was very simple for me. i've always had manual cars, and learned to drive on a manual. i've raced them, commuted in them, launched them consistently, etc.

the 10 speed auto was the first car where the difference in acceleration vs. the manual was big enough to eclipse the "fun to drive" aspect of the manual in my opinion. that's why i bought it. my first taste was with a ZL1 10 speed and that made me actually want an automatic performance car for the first time in my life. the shift logic is also MUCH better than any other auto i've driven and the shifts are fast enough to rival a DCT. if i wanted a mustang that was just fun to drive over all else i would buy another '11-'14 manual like my old 2012

 

[Fly2High]

Hey guys.

Learned a lot already. Really appreciate the primer on drag racing and automatics.

Please keep things on drag racing. I see a few have strayed a little. I am more familiar with autocross and track and read and watch Formula 1 and Enduro from time to time. Might not be able to do it but I have an understanding and appreciation for it. Drag I am extremely limited in and appreciate the education.

How does a drag prepped car differ from a track car? Please include the changes that would be needed if it was or was not daily driven.

Very cool so far. Keep it coming.

With much appreciation,
Frank

 

[Linkster1666]

First rattle out of the cage is experience, go to the track. There are a few around you.

A good NHRA/IHRA event would be ideal, however, any of that is yet to re-emerge. TV events won't help significantly.

Keep an eye on the track and what events/activities are going on. Such as open test and tune days, fun runs and things like that, right now.

Find what, if anything, grabs ya. A car type, a class of car, or gas, alcohol, nitro.

Pay attention to the Stock and Super Stock categories, that's where you start, unless you know somebody. Go back to the pits and ask questions, most of those guys are more than happy to help.

It may be very helpful to find a car/team, ask to and follow them around a couple rounds to see WTF is going on.

That will get you a ton of education, the Drag Racing bug and a sickness that will drain every dime you have and sink it into car you will destroy and love every minute of it, or not.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

Hey guys.

Learned a lot already. Really appreciate the primer on drag racing and automatics.

Please keep things on drag racing. I see a few have strayed a little. I am more familiar with autocross and track and read and watch Formula 1 and Enduro from time to time. Might not be able to do it but I have an understanding and appreciation for it. Drag I am extremely limited in and appreciate the education.

How does a drag prepped car differ from a track car? Please include the changes that would be needed if it was or was not daily driven.

Very cool so far. Keep it coming.

With much appreciation,
Frank

this is from just a garage hobby mechanic, not professional mechanic/builder or racer.

lighter front bias. shift weight to back, especially on launch, so some heavier front spring and softer rears, shocks set to extend up front quickly but contract slower and opposite on the back, trying to shift weight onto the rera tires to maintain traction. but not too much, or you just spin.
steering and front traction is not as important. mechanical steering to reduce weight, skinny front tires since you aren't trying to pull lateral G's
low end torque for off the line and consistent throughout enough of the power band to match gears and gearing, but this isn't necessary, look at the A10 mustangs. they just get to high RPM and use lots of gears to stay there.

solid rear axles, stronger, they can't come off camber, keeping the tires flat and perpendicular to the ground. even front i-beams can be used to cut on weight, for a true drag car, what front suspension?

 

[IrishStallion]

Phuck Dude, get to point in 3 paragraphs or less...

 

[Torched10]

I don't race anymore,but what's REALLY IMPORTANT is reaction time at the tree light.a perfect RT is 0.5sec.thats the time it takes to clear the starting line beam after light goes green. 0.1sec is one car length.thats when clock starts.you can have a faster car but if you run 1.0sec rt you'll lose 5 lengths in 1/4 mile.it takes a lot of practice at the drag tree light to get consistent low rts.in my opinion auto have advantage with low rt,at least they did.with launch control on manuals so prevalent it may be different nowadays.my 4 speed gto was a bear trying for low reaction times

 

[Torched10]

In looking various new release threads, there is often so much talk and desire for cars that are automatic and for drag racing. I would sincerely like to understand them. I am new to the muscle car arena. Getting a GT was a dream come true. Now, I would like to understand certain aspects better which brings me to this thread on drag racing with a focus on automatic transmissions.

I will only be talking about stock, unmodified cars here. Of course, we can always modify any car, manual or automatic and make it faster than what the dealer sells. I want this focus to be on stock cars, not modified ones.

I am more of a track guy in interest where I feel that it is more obvious that a great car doesn't guarantee a win. There is still so much driver input and skill needed to win a race. Having a fast car is only part of the equation. Driving skill is still paramount.

I do not understand the skill required in drag racing, especially with an automatic. Could I have someone explain to me what it takes. Part of this, I have listed several questions below that I would also like explained to me so I can better understand what a drag guy is looking for in a dealer sold car and maybe better appreciate drag racing.

I have a cousin years before automatics were faster than manuals, installed in the reworked family cruiser an automatic and a .050 bored over 383. He could get the wheels off the ground and it ended up pulling low tens. This was a '86 Caprice Classic. Total sleeper. He said he installed the automatic because he knew he could get repeatable times. He did not have to worry about skipping a shift or not shifting just right and losing a race. He knew that his deviation in times were tighter than just about every manual guy and if they were close in performance and they were not perfect, he could beat them. He could pull the same times over and over based on what was capable of that day and track conditions, barely deviating higher or lower on each pull.. The automatic made him more repeatable. He could,at the time, install a manual and improve his drag times but it would require him to improve and maintain his skill. The auto reduced the number of variables to make his times repeatable.

How many want an automatic drag car because it is currently the fastest dealer optioned car, because it is more repeatable or for some other reason(lack of skill in a manual, no time to develop a skill, etc)?

With all the nannies to help with launch control, etc. will the sport of drag racing turn into being a spec sheet comparison? If the computer is controlling the launch and two cars pull up to the line with well maintained cars, won't the one with the better specs win? If Car A is 2/10th of a second faster than Car B and both are automatics, you know that you already lost before the green falls. What is the point of racing? You lost before you got started. Cars are doing more with computers so that going fast and actually hitting the car magazine specs is becoming a reality.

What is the point of racing, other than the pure enjoyment and thrill of flying down the track, when you know that the car next to you was manufactured to beat yours and both are autos with launch control? What I mean is, it sounds to me that most are not in drag racing for the thrill of the drive. they are looking for every tenth of a second for the win. Those that love the drive, do not need a new car to be the very fastest. they only need it to be equal or better than what they have now. If they were into the drive, they would not constantly bring up the small margin of improvement an auto has today over a manual. The real thrill is in the drive, not how you drive.

With electrics being stupid fast. Will drag guys eventually give up ICE cars in order to get to the next level of performance especially since you can buy a Tesla right now and already kill everyone in the 1/4?

In comparison to driving at a track with all the twists and turns, drag racing to me is a floor stomp straight line drive. The feeling of being connected with a car, to me, is more felt in track than drag. Can you describe what it means to feel connected with your drag car, especially an automatic drag car? When I drive my manual, I am one with the car. Does it really matter if you feel connected? (I am not saying an emotional connection either - we all feel emotionally connected with our cars. I am talking about the driving experience).

How often do you replace a drag car? How much is it because it is worn out or is it because you started to lose races and need something faster? I seriously do not know the turnover rate of a car that has bee drag raced and I wonder how often it is because a faster car came out and it is the win that is more so desired.

If Mustangs were to start being the slightly slower drag car, for whatever reason, would you still buy them knowing that every time you race against cars X,Y and Z, you were going to lose? I am sure there are those who are fan boys and I am not talking about those guys. I am looking at those who buy the car as a tool to enjoy drag racing only. If your tool was inadequate, would you not buy something else? Is the thrill of having the fastest stock car more important to a drag racer than the car? I guess the real question here is what is it you look for in a drag car? It cannot just be the 1/4 mile times.

How many daily drive their tracked drag car? I am not asking about the stop light heroes. I am asking those who take it to the drag strip an actually race the car. Do you also daily drive it or does it just sit on the side, like a tennis racket or golf clubs until you decide to go 'play'? Do you do anything to prep a car for drag day vs daily drive?

Why is it so important to buy a stock car that has the best numbers today when tomorrow, something WILL come out with better specs and beat you very shortly down the line? I find auto guys tend to be hung up on the fact that they are the fastest. Tomorrow, they won't be and they won't be if they go up against a guy who put a little wrench time and tuning even if it might be a manual. Are automatic driver and/or drag car guys hung up on published 1/4 mile times?

I read that it is better to have smaller diameter wheels with larger tires on a drag car for the slingshot effect. Why as so many guys wanting handling packages and big diameter wheels with skinny tires if they desire to drag a car? the CobraJet Mustang drag car is the opposite of what so many drag guys seem to want. That car had a larger diameter rear wheel with far smaller wheels , in ratio, than what most GTs have, especially the ones with 'packages' or Shelby in their names.

I wonder beside stoplight racing, how many guys who are hung up with the fastest spec sheet actually use the car at the track? If a few tenths of a second mean everything, does that hinder your desire to buy since they are always talking about the next car coming soon being so much better than what is out now.

Does having a factory car with a warranty matter to you when you go dragging? Do you feel that you are taking advantage of the manufacturer a bit since you are severely beating on the car and you are not paying for the repairs and maintenance yourself? I see all pro teams do their own parts replacement and over the years, if you blow a tranny or engine or whatever, it was on you to tow the car home and fix it. Is it partly because so many people like to drive at the drag strip but do not have the skill to maintain a car? Of course to pay someone else to fix your car would quickly get cost prohibitive.

Isn't part of drag racing having the ability to wrench and repair your own car or at least have someone who can teach you? I ask because I find so many people these days who cannot change the oil or a tire much less replace an alternator, redo the brakes or God forbid, rebuild a tranny.

Is it important to drag guys to be able to buy a car from the dealership and then be able to go straight to the track? In the old days, part of the fun was modifying your car. Has modifying a car to improve it been lost?

Please forgive me if I sound defensive. Not meant to. I can only express myself from the side of the fence I have been on. Maybe if I get a better understanding, I can better appreciate the 'next 1/4 mile' and be more supportive of your camp.

Sorry it turned into a lot of questions. As I looked at various things, it got me thinking about more questions. I am sure there will be more to come. Please honestly answer what you feel and maybe you will get a few more track guys into your corner or at least help others understand your needs.

With much appreciation,
Frank

More info on drag racing

What is E.T. Racing ( Bracket Racing ) and How does it work?
By far the most popular form of drag racing is a handicapped form of competition known as "E.T. Bracket Racing." In this form of racing, two vehicles of varying performance potentials can race on a potentially even basis. The anticipated elapsed times for each vehicle are compared, with the slower car receiving a head start equal to the difference of the two. With this system, virtually any two vehicles can be pared in a competitive drag race. The accepted standard for that distance is either a quarter-mile (1,320 feet) or an eighth-mile (660 feet). A drag racing event is a series of two-vehicle, tournament-style elimination's. The losing driver in each race is eliminated, and the winning drivers progress until one driver remains.

The "Dial-In"
Car "A" has been timed at 17.78, 17.74 and 17.76 seconds for the quarter-mile, and the driver feels that a "dial-in" (or guessed time during a race) of 17.75 is appropriate. Meanwhile, the driver of car "B" has recorded elapsed times of 15.27, 15.22 and 15.26 on the same track and he has opted for a "dial-in" of 15.25. Accordingly, car "A" will get a 2.5 second headstart over car "B" when the "Christmas Tree" counts down to each car's starting green lights.

"Reaction Time"
In both vehicles cover the quarter-mile in exactly the predetermined elapsed time (each "dial-in"), the win will go to the driver who reacts quickest to the starting signal. That reaction to the starting signal is called "reaction time." A perfect "reaction time" is .50 because that is the interval between each illumination of lights on the "Christmas Tree". Both lanes are timed independently of one another, and the clock does not start until the vehicle actually moves. Because of this, a vehicle may sometimes appear to have a mathematical advantage in comparative elapsed times but actually loses the race. This fact makes starting line reflexes extremely important in drag racing! And you thought it was simple right? Well, actually there's more, read on.

"Break-Out" or "Run-Out"
Should a driver go quicker than his/her predetermined "dial-in" it is a "break-out" or "run-out" which is grounds for disqualification (because the handicap provided to the other car was then incorrect – making it an unfair race for the competitor). In the case of both vehicles making their runs under their dial-ins, the win goes to the driver who breaks out the least.

"Red Light"
Another form of disqualification is a foul start (or "red light"). This happens when the driver reacts to the "Christmas Tree" too quickly and drives his car away from the starting line before the green "go" signal. When dual infractions occur, say a red-light and then a break-out, the re-light takes disqualification precedent over the break-out.

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What Do I Do When I Get To The Track?
TICKET BOOTH Here you buy your tech card, receive your wristband or Pit Pass and sign the waiver release. Once you have purchased a tech card, there are no refunds or exchanges. All vehicles need to be race-ready upon entering the facility.
PIT AREA Go to the pit area, park and prepare your vehicle to race. Please allow for as many vehicles to park in area as possible. Please read all racer information you were given at gate. Racers may Pit on both sides but may not block any access roads or other racers.
FUEL and PARTS Fuel, air, water, parts and limited automotive supplies are available on the premises during normal race events.
TECH INSPECTION After filling out your tech card, proceed to Tech Inspection, located in the center of the PIT AREA. All drivers in all classes must be in possession of valid drivers license. No competition runs faster than 9.99 will be allowed without a valid NHRA license. IHRA Certified and Licensed Drivers can apply with a Cross Over Form. A tech inspector will check your vehicle, give you a tech inspection sticker and put your number on your vehicle. (Additional shoe polish for dial-ins is available for sale at the goody booth.) Your ticket or techcard is your raincheck in case of bad weather. DO NOT LOSE. Each car and driver is teched as a team and neither one can be substituted without going to tech first for re-inspection. If either the car or the driver is substituted and it is not reported to Tech, both will be expelled from competition.

• All drivers racing a car faster than 9.99 must have a valid NHRA competition license. Any driver not in possession of a valid NHRA license must dial 10.00 in competition. In the event of a double breakout, the breakout closest to the dial-in wins (including a run under the 10.00 dial-in).
• All race vehicles must have an approved seat belt or current SFI dated harness, as outlined in the current NHRA Rule Book. Rule Books available at the Goody Booth
• All race vehicles must pass all technical inspections, as outlined in the current NHRA Rule Book. A Tech inspection sticker will be placed on the race vehicle upon a satisfactory inspection.
• Any race vehicle not meeting the specified technical rules will be rejected by the Track Tech Director.
• Any technical deficiencies must be corrected prior to racing the vehicle.
• Minor infractions that do not affect the safety of the vehicle or driver may be waived by the Tech Director only and signed only if he feels confident in doing so.
• Any changes made to a race vehicle after inspection must be reported to the Track Tech Director. Failure to do so will result in being removed from competition and loss of points for that day.
• Random Tech inspections will be made in the pits by the Track Tech Team. Any vehicle not meeting NHRA safety standards will be prevented from racing until the violations are corrected and approved by the Tech Director.
• It is the driver's responsibility to have all of the current safety equipment, as outlined in the current NHRA Rule Book, including safety belts, safety harness, helmets, fire protective clothing, etc. Refer to Sportsman Section of the Safety Handbook for items not required for non-E.T. Handicap racing, i.e. fireproof pants and neck collar.

RELEASE and WAIVER of LIABILITY AGREEMENT FORM Must be, read, understood and signed at ticket booth by all persons in competition and crew members who will be entering the restricted areas. Those without wristbands, tech card or pit passes will not be allowed to enter the restricted areas.
STAGING LANES Come to the lanes only when your class and assigned lane is called. When your lane or class is next, make sure you are ready to race, be sure your helmet is on, your seat belt fastened properly and all windows up. Follow the directions of the staging lanes personnel. When Reporting for Eliminations to the staging lanes, you may not change lanes once you enter a lane.
TOP of STAGING Wait here until instructed by official to proceed to the Water Box. This is where the computer operator reads your number and dial-in from the Timing Tower and enters it into the computer. Dial Ins and Numbers on Left Side Of Car or Bike
WATER BOX Cars with slicks will be guided into the water by the Track Personnel operating this area. Stationary burn-outs should not be preformed forward of the burn-out area. Start burnout only when starting line/water box staff instructs you to do so.
PRE-STAGE Move forward until the top small yellow light on the "Christmas Tree" (pre-stage) is lit. During eliminations check dial-in on pre-dial in board (located at the back of the starter's Vee) Once a vehicle is staged, you have accepted the scoreboard dial-in. You are not allowed to back out and re-stage. It is a racer courtesy to wait for your competition to also pre-stage before staging.Once Both Cars are pre-staged each cars should stage within 10 seconds
STAGING We use AUTO START in all classes and the timer till the tree self starts is set at 8 seconds once 3 Lights are lit.
Inch your vehicle forward until the second yellow light on the "Christmas Tree" (stage) is lit and prepare for the 3 amber lights (amber spotlights) to count down to the green light. (Leave on the 2nd or 3rd amber light depending on the reactions of you and your vehicle.) A Pro Start is when all three amber lights come on at one time and then go to the green light. On a full tree the countdown between lights is 5-tenths of a second while on a Pro Tree, the countdown is 4-tenths of a second. As a courtesy stage when your competitor's pre-stage light is lit.
RACE TIME Go! If your vehicle has problems, pull to the outside of your lane and stop. If no problem exists, always exit the racing surface before stopping. If you "red light", which is automatic loss during eliminations, DO NOT slow down and take your frustrations out on the next racers waiting to race. If at anytime you experience vehicle problems, pull to the outer edge of the track when safe to do so. This allows the starter to know you have a problem and if you are leaking fluids it make clean-ups better for all participants.
FINISH LINE Drive past the finish line, LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE IN GEAR, and slow down using your brakes (chute if needed). Turn left at nearest exit. Get off track quickly. Be careful when turning left to allow for safe exiting and to avoid collision. Go to the end of the track only if it is absolutely necessary.
SHUT DOWN AREA Once past the finish Line ( Orange Panels ) slow your vehicle in preparation of exiting the track. There are two left hand turn-offs after the finish line. Please exit track carefully watching for traffic in the other race lane. Racer Safety Equipment should be worn properly until the car exits the race track.
TIME SLIP BOOTH STOP here and get your time slip. Report any knowledge of problems on track. While on the return road to the timing ticket booth the maximum speed limit is 15 MPH
TIME SLIP Prints your reaction time, 60', 330', 660', 1,000', 1,320' elapsed time, 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile m.p.h. Your time slip also gives you the same information about your competitor as well as records which racer was the winner during eliminations.
RETURN ROAD 15 MPH and follow posted road signs. Violators will be penalized which could mean disqualification.
PIT AREA Go back to the pit area and wait for the announcer (if you can not hear the P.A. system tune your FM radio to 89.9) for all calls to staging lanes.
ELIMINATIONS Come to assigned lanes when called by P.A. or FM Broadcast system. Only winners return when called. Ladder sheets are normally posted after third round at which time winners report directly back to your assigned lane.

High School Eliminator Program

In conjunction with the regular bracket racing series there is a popular program for high school students. Each participating track holds special High School Eliminator events, and a student is selected to represent the track at the Sears Craftsman E.T. Racing Series Finals in each division. Students battle it out at the Finals, with the winner earning a variety of prizes and a cash grant for their high school.

CROSSING EXTREMITIES: While on a pass, a driver cannot allow his or her vehicle to cross either the center or outer lines. If the driver crosses a line during qualifying his or her time will not count. If he or she does this during eliminations the car is disqualified. This is to keep drivers from staying on the power too long when car has assumed a dangerous posture on the track or "gotten out of shape." The only time this rule is waived is for a single-run final or on a run where the other driver breaks out or the competing driver breaks, may then cross center line under control to exit track safely.

NOT STAGING: Once a car leaves the staging lanes,it is considered a competitor, if it can not cross the front of staging it will be eliminated and the next vehicle will become the competitor. it must be prepared to make a pass. Failure to stage upon the starter's instructions will be grounds for disqualification. Also, once a car is staged and leaves the line- forward or backward- for any reason, it is not allowed to restage. Such infractions during qualifying usually lead to the disqualification of the driver's time. When on a ladder and competitor can not answer the call a solo pass will be made. Solo passes will only be allowed when competitor breaks after the driver passes the staging lane line. The Driver has the right not to stage under two circumstances, (1) if his dial-in is incorrect, at which time he should signal the starter to have the problem corrected, and (2) he sees an unsafe condition down track, at which time he should also notify track personnel immediately.

BURNOUTS: The Burnout, or tire-heating procedure that takes place on the starting line, is very much a part of drag racing; it's very exciting and colorful. However, when and where burnouts are performed is subject to regulation. Only Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, and alcohol cars can cross the starting line under power before a run, and they can only do that once. Any burnout done in the pits will lead to disqualification. Any car doing a burnout must be able to back up by itself.

The GOLDEN RULE

All infractions are subject to ruling by the event director. In the rare case of side-by-side infractions, the first or worst rule is used. In other words, if one car red-lights and then the other crosses the centerline, the second infraction would be deemed worse and that car would be disqualified. The red-lighting car would be reinstated. The Final Decision will be determined by the Track Operator

Portions of this page where taken from "Basics of Drag Racing" distributed by NHRA

 

[Norm Peterson]

With all the nannies to help with launch control, etc. will the sport of drag racing turn into being a spec sheet comparison? If the computer is controlling the launch and two cars pull up to the line with well maintained cars, won't the one with the better specs win? If Car A is 2/10th of a second faster than Car B and both are automatics, you know that you already lost before the green falls. What is the point of racing? You lost before you got started. Cars are doing more with computers so that going fast and actually hitting the car magazine specs is becoming a reality.

Fair question, and one that the drag racing sanctioning bodies should be spending some time thinking about. Over on the road course side of the hobby, it is being required that certain new technologies be turned off. While the specific reason differs from what you're picturing here, there's precedent already for limiting the amount of technological driver assistance that should be permitted.

What is the point of racing, other than the pure enjoyment and thrill of flying down the track, when you know that the car next to you was manufactured to beat yours and both are autos with launch control?

That'd be what bracket racing is for. Dial in a slower time than the driver whose car has a better launch control, and hope that you hit closer to your time than he does to his, without you breaking out and running faster than your dial-in. You're racing against the clock as much as you're racing the other driver.

What I mean is, it sounds to me that most are not in drag racing for the thrill of the drive. they are looking for every tenth of a second for the win. Those that love the drive, do not need a new car to be the very fastest. they only need it to be equal or better than what they have now. If they were into the drive, they would not constantly bring up the small margin of improvement an auto has today over a manual. The real thrill is in the drive, not how you drive.

You'd be in it for the thrill of beating the other driver. I suspect there's too little time and too much adrenaline flowing to pay attention to much else.

In comparison to driving at a track with all the twists and turns, drag racing to me is a floor stomp straight line drive. The feeling of being connected with a car, to me, is more felt in track than drag. Can you describe what it means to feel connected with your drag car, especially an automatic drag car? When I drive my manual, I am one with the car. Does it really matter if you feel connected? (I am not saying an emotional connection either - we all feel emotionally connected with our cars. I am talking about the driving experience).

You're just going to have to try it. Best I can describe is that drag racing is louder, more brutal, and more intense for those few seconds. Different sensation entirely. Road course driving (and HPDE in particular) is somewhat more relaxed, and a driver's actions far more deliberately planned (most of the time, anyway).

Why is it so important to buy a stock car that has the best numbers today when tomorrow, something WILL come out with better specs and beat you very shortly down the line? I find auto guys tend to be hung up on the fact that they are the fastest. Tomorrow, they won't be and they won't be if they go up against a guy who put a little wrench time and tuning even if it might be a manual. Are automatic driver and/or drag car guys hung up on published 1/4 mile times?

Drag racing and the associated bragging rights have been the 800-lb gorilla in the car hobby for as long as I can remember. Acceleration statistics have been the primary measure of muscle car (and ponycar) goodness since the beginning. An awful lot of people will spend the money to start out nearer the top of the heap.

I read that it is better to have smaller diameter wheels with larger tires on a drag car for the slingshot effect. Why as so many guys wanting handling packages and big diameter wheels with skinny tires if they desire to drag a car? the CobraJet Mustang drag car is the opposite of what so many drag guys seem to want. That car had a larger diameter rear wheel with far smaller wheels , in ratio, than what most GTs have, especially the ones with 'packages' or Shelby in their names.

The CJ is a dedicated dragstrip car, quite a bit more extreme for its sport than the GT350R is for road course competition. You need to spend a little quality time trying to understand just what goes into just the launch and acceleration of a car before you can understand why serious drag machines look the way they do. Understanding ABS and stability control better may provide you with hints about why Ford's street-driven cars aren't going to look like the CJ.

Does having a factory car with a warranty matter to you when you go dragging? Do you feel that you are taking advantage of the manufacturer a bit since you are severely beating on the car and you are not paying for the repairs and maintenance yourself? I see all pro teams do their own parts replacement and over the years, if you blow a tranny or engine or whatever, it was on you to tow the car home and fix it. Is it partly because so many people like to drive at the drag strip but do not have the skill to maintain a car? Of course to pay someone else to fix your car would quickly get cost prohibitive.

Isn't part of drag racing having the ability to wrench and repair your own car or at least have someone who can teach you? I ask because I find so many people these days who cannot change the oil or a tire much less replace an alternator, redo the brakes or God forbid, rebuild a tranny.

You race a car, or drive it at a pace that looks a lot like racing, you're going to break stuff from time to time. Drag racing tends to be harder on drivetrain components, more so if you're running a stick-shift car.

Is it important to drag guys to be able to buy a car from the dealership and then be able to go straight to the track? In the old days, part of the fun was modifying your car. Has modifying a car to improve it been lost?

In drag racing, you're going to want more power, or better tires, or better gearing, or a looser torque converter, or . . . any number of further tweaks.


Norm

 

[Fly2High]

You sound like the typical manual transmission fan who can't get past the fact they are outdated. A modern automatic can do everything you can do with a manual transmission, it just doesn't need a third pedal. It is much faster, much more consistent, more reliable, no drive train stress and won't allow you to damage your engine with a blown shift. It still requires as much driver skill on the track, it just doesn't need a clutch pedal to shift. Plus you can keep both hands on the wheel, so it is safer and allows more steering input.

I have driven track and drag raced. First of all, there are just people who want to go to the drag strip just to see how fast their car is.They aren't serious about it, just having a little fun. These are the guys with the PP1 and PP2 cars with wheels and tires that are useless for drag racing. But, they pay the majority of the fees that keep the tracks open. When you get serious about drag racing, regardless of class, the skill set gets more significant. Driving on a track, you make a lot of little mistakes (brake too soon or to late, wrong apex, shift a little late, etc, etc.). But you keep going and you make it up. In drag racing, a tiny mistake means you lose, no chance to make up for it. All I have to do is leave the line a .10 second late, or lose traction for a fraction of a second... better luck next time. You have to know how to line up, where to line up, which lane is best, what tire pressure, how to launch under different conditions; similar to what you need to know driving on a track. But the biggest thing you have to learn is how fast things are when you cover 1/4 mile at 120 or more mph. By the time you can react, you have traveled 300 feet. On a track, you have adequate time to get used to speed. In drag racing, no chance. On a good day, you may get 10 passes, or two minutes, over a lot of hours.

As far as abuse goes, if you drag race a manual transmission, odds are real good Ford will refuse any claims you make. With an automatic, chances for abuse are much less. If you break an axle because of wheel hop, that's probably on you.

A Tesla is not a good drag racing car. You only get one or two runs before it needs a battery change. Maybe that will change in the future. Ford has several electric Mustangs for drag racing. But, the ICE is probably doomed for all types of motor sports. That's a whole other topic.

I was not pointing out my passion for manuals. This is a thread for me to better understand and respect guys who prefer automatics and drag racing. Some of your first statement is true and others are not (sequential C&D has shown to be faster than a DCT auto).

Let's hold the manual vs automatic comments for another thread. Clearly, you must have picked the wrong thread. Do a search and you will have a ton of manual vs automatic discussions. In the end, we will both lose - electrics are still faster and do not have any transmission.

I will say thank you for your comments that do pertain to this thread.

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