Quick Xineering downshift blip module install review

[meterman]

3) 19:20, he talks about the clutch switch, but it seems he did it without pulling out the switch. I'm not sure how easy that would be, but it is easy to pull it out for easier access to the connector. There are two clutch switches: one is depressed when the pedal is fully depressed - this one is not the one you want. Look up and you'll see a switch that is depressed when the clutch pedal is fully released - this is the one you want. If you're a big guy this might be difficult, but what I did is lay on the floorboard looking up, hold the clutch pedal all the way in with my left hand, reach up with right hand over the bracket the switch is mounted to, and twist the switch to release it and pull it out.

this was the WORST part. I wish you had written this up a couple weeks ago. I removed my seat so I could lay down but it still took a while. Getting the new connector to plug in was harder than getting the factory connector out.

Sponsored

 

[meterman]

A couple of things that I did that helped:

1. I am big and I have big hands (thumb and little finger in different zip codes) and decades of working in an office have left me less than limber. Turns out that working on the clutch switch gets a lot easier if you just pop the dash cover panels off to the lower left of the steering column. Pop off the outer panel, remove the screws you can see, fold the headlight switch up and park it on top of the steering column (don't disconnect it or the headlights will come on and the BCM will throw a code) and slide the sunglass tray out and you can now get both hands on the clutch switch when you're lying on the floor.

2. The switch in the picture above draws power from the cabin temperatures sensor wiring - that's the louvered holes just below the switch. The wire I tapped into there is literally the other end of the wire at the fuse box. I wanted the switch to be accessible easily when I'm returning to the pits, and that switch is a perfect fit and quite unobtrusive. I love Carling switches - used them in electronic products for years. Super reliable and stunningly well priced.

3. The AMP wire taps are diabolical. Use these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESCQ9EQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I had to do this again I would definitely be popping these covers off and going this route.

 

[drummerboy]

this was the WORST part. I wish you had written this up a couple weeks ago. I removed my seat so I could lay down but it still took a while. Getting the new connector to plug in was harder than getting the factory connector out.

Totally understood. I might have gotten lucky with my flashlight placement to notice what was going on up there. In fact, after I pulled the wrong switch, I started to email Xineering thinking I had the wrong unit/connector (due to the 12V/5V discrepancy between model years) but then thought I ought to go look a bit harder first. If you have the light pointed just right you can see two little slots that two little nubs would line up with if you give it a twist. So I reached up and gave it a twist and the switch popped out

It was not hard, but I am thin and can imagine pulling the panels would be an easier method for others. I was a bit contorted and did get a cramp due to the awkward positioning, but once I understood what was going on it was a very quick process.

 

[drummerboy]

So the new mach 1 coming has our trans, AND adds rev matching

Is there any hope at all we can add the rev matching then? Or is it all part of the computer and the "Boy Honda" digital dash?

The factory rev matching is pretty awesome, huh?

I was really hoping it was something that could be turned on via forscan.

 

[zsommer79]

So for the guys using this have ya'll just been using the preset settings for the unit or have you customized them?

 

[meterman]

So for the guys using this have ya'll just been using the preset settings for the unit or have you customized them?

I didn't change it. It seemed to be spot on for me.

 

[lenFeb]

Not for me. I like to blip throttle and do heel-toe on my own. It's the part of the process and if it's not there something will be missing about this car.

 

[460Fred]

Not for me. I like to blip throttle and do heel-toe on my own. It's the part of the process and if it's not there something will be missing about this car.

Can you disable the rev match on other 5.0 mustangs?

 

[lenFeb]

Can you disable the rev match on other 5.0 mustangs?

IDK. I never own any Ford vehicles before and prob never will. I know that BMWs M class with MT can be enabled or disabled through the car computer.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Can you disable the rev match on other 5.0 mustangs?

Yes. Easily accessible setting from the sync3 screen for enabling/disabling.

 

[pbrmeasap]

I didn't change it. It seemed to be spot on for me.

Adjusting the default settings is definitely the systems' weak point compared to the auto blip system. Having to use a laptop and not so user friendly software is not ideal, especially if having to do so in the middle of a track day. I tried to use an android phone, but the "Serial USB Console" app is shown as no longer available. Also not IOS supported.

Outside of that, the unit seems to work correctly at a much higher rate than the auto blip, which would inexplicably not function on at least one turn of each lap (Barber turn 14!). It does struggle a bit if going down two gears in quick succession, so best to skip a gear in those situations (i.e. 5th straight to 3rd).

I located the on/off switch in the coin drawer to the left of the steering wheel so can be reached while harnessed in, along with a variable switch for coolshirt system.

 

[Tractor Junk]

I installed the unit last week in preparation for an upcoming NASA event at Barber. Here are a few notes in no particular order:
1. The install takes longer than you might think in order to visually lay everything out. It’s one of those projects that takes some time the first round, but after that can be completed in 15 minutes.
2. All of the connections are OEM grade. It does not feel like a “universal fit” aftermarket bolt-on, as is often the case with these things. It’s a very nice module.
3. Shoutout out to JAJ in post #9, the wire taps he linked are amazing. Buy them for tapping the brake wire.
4. For power, no need to splice or tap wires. There’s an easy to access fuse panel in the passenger side footwell, and you can use “Micro2” (not mini) fuse taps to simply plug into a spare slot in the fuse panel (there are plenty of open spots). I purchased these on Amazon.
5. Another shoutout to JAJ on his switch placement near the AC sensor. I found the panel is flatter and switch to be better positioned under the sensor, but either place works well.

Not much else to say. Great unit!

 

[drummerboy]

It’s one of those projects that takes some time the first round, but after that can be completed in 15 minutes.

This mad me laugh. Very true. Laying down on the floorboard contorting yourself in different directions while shining a flashlight around looking for the correct clutch connector was my main timesuck, what was yours?

 

[meterman]

This mad me laugh. Very true. Laying down on the floorboard contorting yourself in different directions while shining a flashlight around looking for the correct clutch connector was my main timesuck, what was yours?

Mine too, but the tougher part was plugging in the clutch connector. I could easily plug the stock one in and out to confirm the direction but getting the Xineering one to connect was a mother.

 

[JAJ]

Mine too, but the tougher part was plugging in the clutch connector. I could easily plug the stock one in and out to confirm the direction but getting the Xineering one to connect was a mother.

I accidentally twisted the switch and it popped out of its hole and landed beside my head. That's why took the headlight switch out - so I could maneuver the clutch switch back into place. Made plugging in the switch a lot easier, though.

Sponsored