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Question for those with active cooling of diff and/or transmission

Cdnspeed

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Could set up an arduino with 2 temp sensors and it could run the pump on a pwm with a target temp
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Could set up an arduino with 2 temp sensors and it could run the pump on a pwm with a target temp
You could be a complete cheapskate like me and use a 12v temp controller to turn on the pump. I silicon glued the sensor onto the diff cover. It actually works pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temp...p/B019I3YCFS/ref=psdc_306533011_t1_B011VGAPOC

i can’t remember if that the exact model I used, but it’s pretty similar.
Thanks for those great suggestions! I'm hoping to get some work done on the car this weekend and I'm going to start scoping areas for the cooling and pumps. With most events canceled or delayed I decided there's no reason to rush this work.
 

Cdnspeed

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Thanks for those great suggestions! I'm hoping to get some work done on the car this weekend and I'm going to start scoping areas for the cooling and pumps. With most events canceled or delayed I decided there's no reason to rush this work.
Let me know if you need any help deciding what hardware you need, the arduino can be setup with a small display to show all the vitals that you'd want as well. but a thermo switch and relay is probably more than enough for this
 
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Let me know if you need any help deciding what hardware you need, the arduino can be setup with a small display to show all the vitals that you'd want as well. but a thermo switch and relay is probably more than enough for this
I really like the arduino as an option. Seems to me like it would be fun to do. I only very briefly looked at it so far, though.
 

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Cdnspeed

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I really like the arduino as an option. Seems to me like it would be fun to do. I only very briefly looked at it so far, though.
Theoretically a $10 Arduino Nano clone, and a $3 Mosfet with a very large heat sink would run this, DM me if you'd like a PCB made for it.
 

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Things that short like the defroster use lots of power and come with big wires. For my racecar I m going to repurpose the defroster switch and wiring to run my diff cooler pump. I think that will work. Then since I put in a giant transcooler I'm repurposing the OR trans cooler to be my diff cooler. I should have all my fittings next week. We will see if it works.
 

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I just hit the easy button on the rear diff cooler from ftbr but curious on manual trans setups folks have fab’d
 

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Edit: you say the MT 82 manages heat well. What temperature does yours get to when you are on track?
Wanted to give you an update since I recently installed gauges for engine, trans and diff... 20 min track sessions with 40-50 min rest in between... Peak Temps were engine 245, trans 220, diff 240.

Trans has a slightly modified trans cooling scoop and wrapped exhaust near diff with heat wrap. Running BG fluid in both. Engine has significant cooling mods... All the vents, bigger oil pan, and custom radiator ducting.

An interesting observation with the trans... As soon as I started to slow down (coming into the paddock) trans temp started climbing up to 250ish. Once I got back out on track carrying high speed temp would drop back down to 215-220ish. Seems like that trans scoop was really doing some work.

I am really pleased with the temp management considering the limited cool down time between sessions.
 

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Any pictures of Modified trans scoop..? Just on the Trans or directed to the diff..?
 

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Wanted to give you an update since I recently installed gauges for engine, trans and diff... 20 min track sessions with 40-50 min rest in between... Peak Temps were engine 245, trans 220, diff 240.

Trans has a slightly modified trans cooling scoop and wrapped exhaust near diff with heat wrap. Running BG fluid in both. Engine has significant cooling mods... All the vents, bigger oil pan, and custom radiator ducting.

An interesting observation with the trans... As soon as I started to slow down (coming into the paddock) trans temp started climbing up to 250ish. Once I got back out on track carrying high speed temp would drop back down to 215-220ish. Seems like that trans scoop was really doing some work.

I am really pleased with the temp management considering the limited cool down time between sessions.
I was re-reading this post today and thinking about the temperature behavior of the transmission. My assumption is that the transmission isn't actually getting hotter as you drive into the paddock. As you go into the paddock you are at lower speed and low power, almost coasting in the car. Low speed low power driving isn't going to make the transmission get hotter.

So thinking about this, I believe you are getting a lot of air flow in the area where your temperature sensor is located, which is making your temperature sensor read low. Probably the transmission is hovering at about 250 degrees the entire time you are on track, but the sensor has a lower reading due to that air flow. Then as you drive more slowly, the sensor isn't cooled as much anymore and the temperature of the transmission registers more accurately.

Not really a big deal, but just something to consider and base your fluid change intervals on.
 

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Any pictures of Modified trans scoop..? Just on the Trans or directed to the diff..?
Just the Trans for now. Added a front lip to help draw in more air and had to notch the sides to fit with my Moroso oil pan.

I had bought a modified trans scoop shown on the right of the last Pic and plan take the higher walls and put them on my scoop to help keep the exhaust heat out. Race team claimed an additional 15 degree drop with that mod.

The scoop I am currently running is on the left.
20200508_125514_HDR.jpg
20200508_130833.jpg
20200508_125519_HDR.jpg
 

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I was re-reading this post today and thinking about the temperature behavior of the transmission. My assumption is that the transmission isn't actually getting hotter as you drive into the paddock. As you go into the paddock you are at lower speed and low power, almost coasting in the car. Low speed low power driving isn't going to make the transmission get hotter.

So thinking about this, I believe you are getting a lot of air flow in the area where your temperature sensor is located, which is making your temperature sensor read low. Probably the transmission is hovering at about 250 degrees the entire time you are on track, but the sensor has a lower reading due to that air flow. Then as you drive more slowly, the sensor isn't cooled as much anymore and the temperature of the transmission registers more accurately.

Not really a big deal, but just something to consider and base your fluid change intervals on.
That it is an interesting thought. My understanding is that the sensor is inside the transmission submerged in oil and the housing portion exposed to the air outside shouldn't affect the temp all that much. At least that is how I hope it works!

I had presumed the temp climb was from the engine heat permeating its way into the trans.

When I was doing the before baseline the Trans temp seemed to keep climbing regardless if I was stopped/low speed or at high speeds. I wasn't seeing a drop in temp at speed.
 
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That it is an interesting thought. My understanding is that the sensor is inside the transmission submerged in oil and the housing portion exposed to the air outside shouldn't affect the temp all that much. At least that is how I hope it works!

I had presumed the temp climb was from the engine heat permeating its way into the trans.

When I was doing the before baseline the Trans temp seemed to keep climbing regardless if I was stopped/low speed or at high speeds. I wasn't seeing a drop in temp at speed.
What you are saying makes sense to me. Heat from the engine can definitely make the transmission get hotter. If it takes a while to happen you are probably right. If you slow down and the transmission temperature goes up really fast, it's probably the sender (thermal mass of the sender is relatively low, so it can change temperature quickly). But if the temperature reading goes up slowly, it's probably heat from other components warming up the transmission.

If the engine oil and coolant is at a lower temperature than 250, the engine is probably not heating the transmission up to 250. However, the catalytic converters and exhaust are right next to the transmission as well, so that could be another potential source for heat. Everything around the transmission is pretty hot.
 

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Things that short like the defroster use lots of power and come with big wires. For my racecar I m going to repurpose the defroster switch and wiring to run my diff cooler pump. I think that will work. Then since I put in a giant transcooler I'm repurposing the OR trans cooler to be my diff cooler. I should have all my fittings next week. We will see if it works.
@fatbillybob I like this idea, did you implement it?
If so, I'd like to hear more details, such as where is the defroster wiring in the rear, which fuse#, etc.

I cut a piece of styrofoam the same size as the OEM trans cooler, and then, while on my creeper, held it up under the car to see if/where it would fit. Found a location that should have it vertical and still with sufficient ground clearance. This way should not require any fan, I think.

Of course, this idea would be implemented after replacing the OEM trans cooler with a larger Setrab ProLine cooler.
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