Do I need a beadlock rear wheel?

[Boomboom]

I did a search and didn't find my answer.

My car is only 475RWP and will get at most low 700's after I add boost. I am looking at drag wheels. I see that beadlock wheels are quite a bit more expensive. I went to a track event last weekend and most of the s550 guys were running some type of beadlock rim. Do I need it? I would rather get the VMS set and call it a day.

Car is a manual.
I plan on running bias ply tires.

Thanks

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[jmeiers]

I can tell you that my ET Street R radials are slipping on my rear VMS wheels... and mine is A10 so it would be worse with your manual. I mark the valve stem every run and can see that they have moved. VMS is supposed to be coming out with a beadlock version soon and I may personally go with that. Basically, if you can afford a beadlock wheel, I would go with that and be done with it. Otherwise make sure they dry mount your tire and maybe use some tire glue.

 

[Boomboom]

I can tell you that my ET Street R radials are slipping on my rear VMS wheels... and mine is A10 so it would be worse with your manual. I mark the valve stem every run and can see that they have moved. VMS is supposed to be coming out with a beadlock version soon and I may personally go with that. Basically, if you can afford a beadlock wheel, I would go with that and be done with it. Otherwise make sure they dry mount your tire and maybe use some tire glue.

Thanks. That's what I was afraid of. It would cost me more if I have to buy twice.

 

[NotQuik]

I can tell you that my ET Street R radials are slipping on my rear VMS wheels... and mine is A10 so it would be worse with your manual. I mark the valve stem every run and can see that they have moved. VMS is supposed to be coming out with a beadlock version soon and I may personally go with that. Basically, if you can afford a beadlock wheel, I would go with that and be done with it. Otherwise make sure they dry mount your tire and maybe use some tire glue.

By chance did you use an adhesive of some sort on the bead of the wheel during install rather than standard lube?

 

[jmeiers]

By chance did you use an adhesive of some sort on the bead of the wheel during install rather than standard lube?

They were dry mounted but definitely without any adhesive. I guess I could try adding adhesive but I will probably get bead locks once I need a new set of tires.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I've never needed a bead lock wheel. I ran 28X10.50 slicks on an 8 second fox. Also ran 28X10.50 slicks on a low 9 second SN95. Both launching at about 5000rpms off a trans brake. Both cars made enough power to stand the car up on the rear bumper. And my current GT runs high 9s on a street R drag radial. I've never seen the tires move. Mark them with chalk and see if your tires are moving. Beadlocks do give the car that killer race car look though.

 

[jmeiers]

Trust me, it would be much cheaper to stay on my current rear wheels. But it's definitely slipping. I mark the tires before each track day and you can see how much it has slipped in the last 3 outings. Both wheels slipping by about the same amount.

Passenger side:

Driver side:

 

[bluebeastsrt]

Brother I was just sharing my personal experience. Some people have terrible issues with tire slippage. I’m not sure what causes it? As it seams to be a hit or miss thing. But if your slipping that much you obviously need to do something. I don’t think tires slipping is a supper common thing. So I don’t think the OP needs to run out and buy expensive high end bead locks. Most people get by on cheap race stars or jms wheels.

 

[jmeiers]

Brother I was just sharing my personal experience. Some people have terrible issues with tire slippage. I’m not sure what causes it? As it seams to be a hit or miss thing. But if your slipping that much you obviously need to do something. I don’t think tires slipping is a supper common thing. So I don’t think the OP needs to run out and buy expensive high end bead locks. Most people get by on cheap race stars or jms wheels.

I may take the rears to another shop and have them dismount, make sure its all clean, and then remount them completely dry.

 

[91gt331sc]

I had the same issue with the vms wheels. What I found to work good for me is to clean the bead area inside with a scotch brite pad, wipe with brake clean and use permatex super high tack on the bead area when mounting the tire. They have not moved at all since. It seems the glossy bead area lets the tire slip pretty easy even when mounting them dry

 

[whipfury]

I had the same issue with the vms wheels. What I found to work good for me is to clean the bead area inside with a scotch brite pad, wipe with brake clean and use permatex super high tack on the bead area when mounting the tire. They have not moved at all since. It seems the glossy bead area lets the tire slip pretty easy even when mounting them dry

permatex high tack was what i used and have no more problems. 1.52 60ft

 

[Andy13186]

My mh racemasters do move on my vms wheels. Not sure how bad that affects times though, its kind of a little bit of a buffer in the drivetrain , probably less likely to break stuff. Had to remove the balancing weights from my wheel since they moved. No major issues or vibrations without weights though so it seems fine. I think its less than 1/2 inch of movement per run.

 

[markmurfie]

I switched to forgestar D5 beadlocks, mainly to get away from BS racestar shank lugnuts. I am using Hoosier bias ply 28x10.5 tires. They moved about 2 inches the first couple passes, and have stayed there since. Pressure started off high 25+ and I slowly lowered it to 14-15psi, so maybe high tire pressure caused it, but I have heard both pressure too high and too low lets the wheel slip on the bead. might be a radial vs bias thing. Ive also had people say they wanted bead locks to go to an even lower tire pressure like <8psi, which is definitely a bias ply non DOT thing.

If you are using radials, I don't think the beadlocks are going to matter at that power level, as much as tire pressure being too low.
If you are using bias ply, pressure might be too high or too low. Just kind of their nature to being flexible.
Tire and wheel temperature after a burn out using line lock or foot braking probably matters a lot in both cases as well.
Beadlock wheels are heavier, so if you can do with out you are better off.

 

[Boomboom]

I switched to forgestar D5 beadlocks, mainly to get away from BS racestar shank lugnuts. I am using Hoosier bias ply 28x10.5 tires. They moved about 2 inches the first couple passes, and have stayed there since. Pressure started off high 25+ and I slowly lowered it to 14-15psi, so maybe high tire pressure caused it, but I have heard both pressure too high and too low lets the wheel slip on the bead. might be a radial vs bias thing. Ive also had people say they wanted bead locks to go to an even lower tire pressure like <8psi, which is definitely a bias ply non DOT thing.

If you are using radials, I don't think the beadlocks are going to matter at that power level, as much as tire pressure being too low.
If you are using bias ply, pressure might be too high or too low. Just kind of their nature to being flexible.
Tire and wheel temperature after a burn out using line lock or foot braking probably matters a lot in both cases as well.
Beadlock wheels are heavier, so if you can do with out you are better off.

Bias ply because I have a manual.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

permatex high tack was what i used and have no more problems. 1.52 60ft

I wouldn't expect a 1.52 short time to have tire slip issues.

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