New J&M Products Rear Shock Mounts Available Now

[dn1984]

i'm using Pedder's shocks in the rear, would i need any kind of spacer?

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[Hotpart.com]

They called us the other day about our rear shock mounts. It should install with just the one supplied reducer like a stock shock would.

 

[TheMegalodon]

After two months of sitting on them, I finally installed my J&M mounts yesterday. They were installed on Koni Active shocks (reds) with the smaller reducer for stock sized shocks I believe. Install went well but the holes for the mounting bolts didn’t leave much room for the bolts to thread through easily. I used the lower mounting holes for additional shock travel. Really cool to see how the spherical bearing can work to reduce deflection. My only concern is dirt and grit from winter driving getting in the bearing. Hope it’s not an issue but I may try to find some kind of cover like the ones ford has for stock mounts.

Driving impressions: only driven a maiden voyage of about 15 kms (9 miles) so far but first impression is positive. I believe the rear shocks are able to work better with the additional travel back because the ride is a touch better; we’ll see how that changes once they’re broken in. The annoying rattle/clunk noise is still there so I guess it wasn’t the shock mounts. With the windows down you can still hear it; with music on you can hear it depending on volume. With windows closed and no music playing it’s easily noticeable. Not sure what it is but I hope it doesn’t get louder. It’s too bad the rear window on the S550 buzzes over bumps because that noise distracts from the firm but controlled ride.

The roads in my city are pretty rough in places with lots of patch work, potholes and cracks from frost heaving and ice expansion, but the rear end manages better over these imperfections now.

Overall I’m happy with how these mounts pair with my BMR763s and Koni Actives and appreciate the lower mounting holes and sturdy construction.

 

[StangTime]

You could find an appropriately sized rubber cap to fit tight over the raised lip. https://www.mcmaster.com/end-caps/caps-4/round-caps-9/

Is there any concern that the shock boot isn't sealed at the top? Maybe it can't be due to the nature of the spherical bearing pivots?

 

[TheMegalodon]

You could find an appropriately sized rubber cap to fit tight over the raised lip. https://www.mcmaster.com/end-caps/caps-4/round-caps-9/

Is there any concern that the shock boot isn't sealed at the top? Maybe it can't be due to the nature of the spherical bearing pivots?

Thanks for the link! This was only because the suspension was in full droop. To use the lower mounting holes I had to jack up the lower control arm a bit so I could screw in the lower bolts. With the car on the ground the dust boot is flat against the base of the shock mount bearing plate.

 

[StangTime]

Thanks for the link! This was only because the suspension was in full droop. To use the lower mounting holes I had to jack up the lower control arm a bit so I could screw in the lower bolts. With the car on the ground the dust boot is flat against the base of the shock mount bearing plate.

That makes sense. Your observation about the noise is concerning. I am planning on upgrading to these mounts. Likely why Ford uses rubber in the OEM mount.

 

[TheMegalodon]

That makes sense. Your observation about the noise is concerning. I am planning on upgrading to these mounts. Likely why Ford uses rubber in the OEM mount.

To be honest it might be my torque wrench...

I have it in the trunk so I can retorque my summer wheels in a pinch but I just wrapped it in towels after that drive. I’ll have to go for another drive to know for sure. Since no one else has mentioned noise (I don’t see how it’s possible given the design), I don’t think it’s the mounts.

I did a nice long drive today and the mounts were fine. More rough roads to contend with and the rear end felt relatively stable and solid.

 

[TheMegalodon]

Update: took the car for another cruise after taking the torque wrench out and the noise is still there. It’s different than the sound the failed stock mount was making. It’s not always there and when I have the music going and the windows down it’s imperceptible. If you’re keeping it quiet with windows up and no music you’ll hear it over multiple rumbly bumps like patched pavement. Oh well

Update 2: went for another fun cruise around my city’s river valley and the ride is great now that the mounts are breaking in more. I had the rear seats down to listen for the noise and it’s minor. Definitely happy I used the lower mounting holes because my shocks finally work their best. That awful rear end sloppiness is gone and it’s firm but not jarring over rough, broken pavement.

I’d say these are likely the best all around shock mount for these cars based on bearing performance, sturdy construction, additional bump travel for lowered cars and wheel clearance

 

[gameovergt]

I have got to get these on my car, lol. Did get the Steeda dust covers in yesterday. Been so busy lately just no time.

 

[cyclonetron]

I’m lowered 1” in the rear. What mount location should I use?

 

[cyclonetron]

What shocks? You can do either.

Koni STR.T oranges.

 

[TheMegalodon]

Koni STR.T oranges.

I would definitely use the bottom mounting holes and cut off those pins from the sheet metal. You’ll get additional shock travel which will help ride quality.

 

[Hotpart.com]

The Koni bodies are longer so I would use the lower holes or trim your bump stop about 1/2" to 5/8".

 

[NightmareMoon]

I installed a set of these recently. Unfortunately with the lower holes its so difficult to adjust the Koni (on the drivers side) I'm going to go ahead and call it effectively impossible. Not enough room to get in there with the tool and get any leverage on it. I'll have to unbolt it to adjust the Koni, which might be worth it for the extra travel.

I had to do significant grinding to get the shock mount to fit the bolt holes on my car. That's annoying. Someone should tell them they're putting those holes at an incorrect spacing.

 

[TheMegalodon]

I installed a set of these recently. Unfortunately with the lower holes its so difficult to adjust the Koni (on the drivers side) I'm going to go ahead and call it effectively impossible. Not enough room to get in there with the tool and get any leverage on it. I'll have to unbolt it to adjust the Koni, which might be worth it for the extra travel.

I had to do significant grinding to get the shock mount to fit the bolt holes on my car. That's annoying. Someone should tell them they're putting those holes at an incorrect spacing.

I also found them difficult to bolt up. I had to use my impact gun just to get the bolts to dig through the mounting holes and tighten up with the sheet metal. Started it by hand and then with a wrench but the spacing of the mounting holes made it tough to turn the bolts further without mechanical support. I’ve loosened them up and tightened again to make sure they weren’t getting cross threaded.

Personally I don’t think Koni’s are the best option for this car regardless of which set you get and would go with other options in the future. Not overly thrilled with my Actives.

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