Parking brake stuck on

[andyturbo2000]

Hi all,
Parking brake stuck on one wheel scoring the disc and producing hell of heat. Turns out the parking brake return (spring loaded) had seized and wasn’t pulling the pads back off the disc. I’ve freed off with a load of lubricant but wondering if anybody else has had this and if there’s a more permanent fix. 2016 Ecoboost

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[K4fxd]

What usually causes a parking brake to stick is lack of use.

 

[Grafanton]

I had this exact problem on my 2015 ecoboost. I replaced the left side parking brake cable. Problem solved. Not a hard job, fairly inexpensive part.
I might have also been able to fix it by taking the parking brake cable off and lubricating it, but choose to go the replacement route.

 

[scorpion143]

I know i am a bit late for some. But hopefully others would see my reply if they face the same issue.

There is a 12mm tension nut in the middle of the handbrake spring on the back of the caliper. When the hadbrake gets accessive pulls, or a pull, in my case it was the car wash guy who yanked it all the way up vertically, the nut gets torqued or tightened with the dirrection of the spring. All you need to do is torque it back a quarter turn, or untill the spring is back to release potition.

When it first happened to me, the e-brake became completly loose, and it felt like the rear brakes were applied and stuck when i start driving, a moment later they felt like they released, i had to get to work, so i took my chances. On the weekend, i stopped by a garage, and the mechanic told me that my handbrake broke, but my brakes are good to continue driving. A few months later, my rear calipers got completly rusted, so i went back, then he tells me the caliper is stuck applying brakes at all times, but it's ok to drive for another 6 months since my pads are at 30%!!!

I always drove manual cars, and I never had to change brakes, ever! So i bought the power stop z26 brake kit, and jacked up the car. I figuered out the handbrake spring nut fix after trying to clean,wd40, and even power steam the spring for 4 hours. Then i saw it on the product image when i was about to order it.

The nut fixed my problem, but since the mechanic said i am at 30% pads, i decided to change the brakes. I removed the rusted caliper to clean it, and i tried everything, even dipping the caliper in vinegar. Big mistake, since i didn't plug the oil input, and contaminted the whole thing with rust and vinegar. It also made it look worst, and didn't really clean it. So i had no choice but to order and replace the rear calipers. Only to find out that the rear pads are more than 50%, and the front are at 70%. Ford OEM brake pads are really good to take on the heat for months, yet not fry. The rotor thickness spec was towards the low end, so i guess they took the beating, but they were still good. I hoestly, didn't feel a difference when i upgraded to the power stop Z26 brakes. So i basically spent 1200$ CAD on brakes i didn't need, on a 3 years old car, having 65,000K on it.

My car is a 2017 Mustang GT.

 

[Grafanton]

I will have to try this. Replacing the parking brake cable on one side of the car did not completely fix the problem. Thanks.

 

[ShadowFox]

My rear left would stay locked, I replaced the caliper, and then decided to replace all the brakes with the power stops.

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