Are you kidding me??? Cooling Post

[Flyhalf]

On top of the issues ( btw i lost already my A10 once because overheating....)
Chevy " encourage ' you to track the car and warranty COVERS issue.
While ford..well is more shbjective amd strictly connected with the relationship you have qith your dealership.

Chevy demostrates superiority on track use. And keep warranty means they know they can hold well. Ford doesn't because they know they have specific issues.
An old 350 will /could have engine issues. It is a fact.
(En fact they change many things with the latest version to avoid it)
Woman. Driven shpwed exactly what happen when she tried to get help with Ford. Denied. For a well known issue.

If you decide to buy a 350 be sure to get additional engine warranty , 10years warranty)
(my buddy changed already 2 engines!) . worth it

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[Hack]

What is wrong with DI? What is wrong with LS power generation? I have lived with both for many many years and never had problems with either. Only DI issue is more intake valve fouling solved with removing intake manifold and walnut shell each hole for about 5 seconds. That's it 5 seconds and hole. LS motors been racing them for 10+ years. They are great with easy sensible construction and easy reliable crate motors cheaper than crate coyotes.

The voodoo problem is the oil pump gears right? Isn't that an easy aftermarket solution? Wasn't the real problem that Ford has no solution and aftermarket gears void the warrantee? So if out of warrantee then change the gears and problem solved?

Direct injection doesn't have fuel washing the valves to keep them clean. That is one of the main reliability concerns I have about DI, especially when there is no supplemental port injection. It's good that Ford at least didn't cheap out and added the port injection so longer term reliability shouldn't suffer as much. Direct injected engines also run artificially high compression ratios and emit particles like diesels. The CR is a longevity concern as is the valve coking. Particle emissions are just bad for the environment. Yes you can disassemble the engine over and over again to "maintain" it, if that's the kind of "maintenance" you want to do. IMO you shouldn't have to open up a modern engine (other than the oil drain plug) for at least 100K miles.

LS engines are perfect for pickups and station wagons. They are torquey and have good power down low but they are dead when you get on track and try to use the entire rev range. I like an engine that revs out well and makes a lot of top end power, especially on track. In my Z06 the engine was great when you first stepped on it, but then it just kind of whimpered along as it got up in revs. I've noticed that tendency in all the LS engines. I think it's because GM doesn't do independently variable intake and exhaust valve timing.

I'm not sure if there even is a Voodoo problem. I think oil control due to the piston rings getting deformed during assembly is the most likely issue? But only Ford really knows at this point. In a few more years when they are all out of warranty we will know for sure. At that point I will probably try to find a used GT350 unless the problem is more significant than I think. Like I said, mine had no problems through 33,000 miles - I'm just a worrier.

 

[saleen367]

I will be @ Road America in July and will also report back any issues I've encountered. So far, I've done little in the way of added cooling because I rarely run the car in temps above 90*. The rear diff has been a known issue since the magazine reviews and I'm expecting that to arise even with a fluid change. I just haven't had the time to get a FTB cooler added yet.

 

[fatbillybob]

Direct injection doesn't have fuel washing the valves to keep them clean. Yes you can disassemble the engine over and over again to "maintain" it, if that's the kind of "maintenance" you want to do.

LS engines are perfect for pickups and station wagons. They are torquey and have good power down low but they are dead when you get on track and try to use the entire rev range. I like an engine that revs out well and makes a lot of top end power, especially on track. In my Z06 the engine was great when you first stepped on it, but then it just kind of whimpered along as it got up in revs.
.

Pulling intake is no harder than doing a water pump. It is an external part. No big deal in theory but I'm sure Ford did something stupid to make it hard work. You blow walnut shell every 30k miles on a streetcar no big deal. On race car that operates 90% WOT who knows? Still not a hard job just one more thing for a racecar among many.

I raced an LS6 in my Z06 for 10+ years. I like it. I would still be racing it if I could get parts. I only went to the Mustang GT because new racecars break less and I can buy crate coyote motors and go to the Ford dealer to get parts when I'm travel racing. Parts were a real issue with the LS6 vettes. We had to carry all kinds of spares if we broke on a weekend which is a real bummer towing 20hrs to Texas and breaking a steering rack. I could get one nowhere withing 200miles of Austin and ended up buying a welder and welding the rack in the paddock to make the race. At the end of my vette's life I was traveling with extra motor, steering racks, fenders, differential, and a bunch of other stuff.

 

[Flyhalf]

I will be @ Road America in July and will also report back any issues I've encountered. So far, I've done little in the way of added cooling because I rarely run the car in temps above 90*. The rear diff has been a known issue since the magazine reviews and I'm expecting that to arise even with a fluid change. I just haven't had the time to get a FTB cooler added yet.

Really try the little trick i do.
Leafblower. Pour some water and spray the diff. You will start every session with accectable temp allowing you to push for longer time.

 

[JohnD]

Automatics on a road course. Big heat. Bad idea.
Have fun with that.

 

[fatbillybob]

21st century

 

[Flyhalf]

Automatics on a road course. Big heat. Bad idea.
Have fun with that.

Issue is not more the trans. It is the engine and the oil.
By the way. Will upgrade oil from Ow40 to 5w50 and also just changed the central vent with somenthing more aggressive. I'm planning to add a second oil cooler but for the moment I'll try this upgrade to test and see hoe it does

 

[1958cyclist]

I’m in bed with her now so well see how these upgrades do and if I get to cut holes in my brand new hood!

On the flip side it is fun to see the gt350 gt350r and 1LE owners come poke around your car and ask what you’ve done to it after the track session!

Instead of cutting up your nice factory hood, why not look into one of the aftermarket hoods with GT500 like venting. kind of a pain to swap out for track days, but it may improve flow through...

 

[shogun32]

or buy an unpainted factory hood ($700), rattle-can it, plati-dip, wrap it, and cut it all up. If you ever need to sell the car with original hood, you still have it.

 

[Flyhalf]

Or do like i did buying a 300$ hood in ebay with some dents and cut that.
So my oem hood is still intact

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Or do like i did buying a 300$ hood in ebay with some dents and cut that.
So my oem hood is still intact

I picked a used hood up yesterday and placed my order with racelouvers.

 

[SmokinAces]

Hey NeverSatisfied, finally coordinated time off with good weather. I did as everyone else recommended and bought a new slightly damaged hood cheap. Cut it and installed the racelouvers vent. Came out very well. The hood I purchased was from a junkyard and quite dingy and dirty. Polished it with turtlewax light rubbing compound and it came out awesome. You’ll need some additional hardware, striker, nuts, seals should you not want to take them off the original hood. Also installed the transmission cooler. It looks to be fairly tucked away. If you need anything else let me know. Oh and when you place you louver make sure it is at least 17 inches back from the tip of the hood.

 

[SmokinAces]

Transmission cooler

 

[shogun32]

when you place you louver make sure it is at least 17 inches back from the tip f the hood.

does that number (17) conflict with the instructions which called for (if memory serves) like 4-6 inches behind radiator? What is the significance of >17?

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