Oil pump gear for sure replacement?

[HearThe Whine]

So I’m waiting to receive my stage 2 edelbrock SC for my 18’ GT with the A10 and was doing some late night research and started to get into different failures when you get into big numbers. I’ve read stock parts should be fine till around the 700RWHP range. Then I’ve read that the oil pump gear is a for sure replacement. Then I’ve read it’s fine if you aren’t bouncing off the limiter like you’re racing in a video game. I’ve also seen conflicting numbers on when to start replacing the drive shaft and half shafts. I can easily be tuned to over 1100RWHP which is highly unnecessary. It’s not the horsepower of the engine itself that would cause failure of the shafts it would be the traction itself, right? That’s why prepped tracks and slicks are only a good idea with beefy rear ends since the stress comes from all the power having to really work to turn the wheels. With the upgrades I have planned I should be hovering around 850RWHP on E85 and I just want to see what experience other people have had. As well as what knowledge anyone can share, thanks in advance (I also have a Shelby super snake widebody package which gives me 345 rears which will hopefully help with traction)

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[Interceptor]

Murphy's law....
What you think?

 

[BrandonS550]

The high rpm harmonics is what kills the OPGs. If you're investing the dough in the blower, I would absolutely replace OPGs and cranks sprocket. As for half shafts, its not the absolute traction that kills them so much as wheel hop. Now at 1100whp with a sticky tire, sure a stocker will snap too, but plenty of stock cars have snapped half shafts from just simple wheel hop. Grab the Steeda "Stop-the-hop" kit to minimize that and toss in some DSS level 6 shafts (rated for 2k hp) The stock diff will handle all you can throw at it.

 

[Jmtoast]

At that power level and no warranty yes that's a no brainer. You will want stop the hop, mak cat deletes or some combo of headers\cat delete, and with 850 I would go 17" drag radial on the back. I'm struggling on the street with 20" toyo R888r's and I'm on pump gas. I lose traction from a 60 roll if it isn't 80 plus degrees. I rarely turn traction control off anymore. Half shafts might break. Lot's of torque but there are guys running in the 9's who haven't replaced them on an A10

btw, it's tire compound not width. Obviously width helps but you need more sidewall and sticky tire compound more than anything.

 

[Stephen@lethal]

I would highly recommend swapping them out honestly. It may not be a fun part, but its going to make your fun parts a lot more enjoyable when you are puckered up every time you hit the throttle because you think it could go any second lol. Hit me up if you have any questions about them. We have some sets ready to go. Lethalperformance.com

 

[givemeadollar]

You don't put the supercharger on to baby the car, and it only takes 1 high rpm shift to snap these oem chinesium gears. Look up oil pump gear drop test videos on youtube.

 

[rancid]

When I go FI, oil pumpgpump and fuel system will be the two areas I don't cheap out on.

 

[2morrow]

Do the OPG and CS. its just cheap insurance and everything will be torn down anyways.

As far as axles go, I've seen stock levels of power chew through axles depending on the driver's style.

 

[GreenS550]

On the '18 up manual GTs Ford put non-necked down 1/2 shafts on the DRs side. The A10 gets the lighter duty shaft on the DR side which is the one that breaks. You can just get on Ebay and pick up a Manual DR side cheap, but must be '18 and up. Just a thought.

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