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Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

aleccolin

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This Quicktime bellhousing is going to need shimming for parallelism - getting 0.008" TIR and the spec is 0.002" TIR for standard applications and 0.001" TIR for high RPM (7500+) applications.

In this picture the indicator is set up on my zero - you can see that the bottom is kicked out 0.008". All surfaces were stoned and cleaned, everything is installed and torqued correctly.

sUiKEC6l.jpg
 
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aleccolin

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0.016" TIR concentricity - even though it's not totally accurate with the bellhousing out of parallel, it's clear I'm going to need offset dowels. 0.007" offset should get it real close to zero all said and done.

M4NYB6ul.jpg
 

Ruiner46

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I'll be taking these measurements soon myself. I'm curious how you handle shimming the bellhousing. I understand how the offset dowels work, but for the shims, do you just put them under a few of the bellhousing to block bolts? Will that make some of the other bolt locations have a gap between bellhousing and block?
 

aleccolin

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I ordered a half dozen slotted shims of each size .001” to .005” from McMaster. The assembly isn’t perfectly rigid so if you can shim each bolt location within a thou or two it’ll pull down fine. What matters is what it’s doing at the outer flange. I would expect I’ll probably need some .004” shims at the top and .002” or .003” shims at the sides to make it right. I probably won’t shim the lowest bolt holes on the block since that’s the high side.
 

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aleccolin

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FWIW if I can’t get concentricity within spec after shimming, I’ll probably bite the bullet and just have this bellhousing surface ground to bring it back to parallel. If I had access to a surface plate I’d have checked it already, but I’m sure it’s out at least a few thou.
 

supertorque

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Hello, I have done quite a bit of modifications to my 2019 Bullitt. The only thing appearance wise is the tinted windows and the side scoops. In my opinion the side scoops make all the difference in the world on all new mustangs. The original Bullitt had side scoops so I decided why not. I also hate the gear lock out I get from 1-2 gear changes so I put a T56 Magnum XL to replace the factory MT82D4 with remote shifter. It fixed the problem alright! The car drives so much better but unfortunately I am having issues with the wiring and have lost so much functionality that it's just not worth keeping the T56. You would not believe the amount of time and research I have done trying to find a solution. As of this morning the Bullitt is back in the shop to swap back the trans, I hate it but after paying that much for a car its just not worth sacrificing all the functions that make the car.
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Hi everyone, I am back to share some pics of my MT82 reinstall after my T56 Magnum XL didn't exactly go as smooth as I had hoped. Anyone in the future looking for answers can feel free to ask me. Here is some pics. to show that I don't just make this stuff up as I go. lol View attachment 468290
upshegoes.jpg
Bullitt+t56.jpg
clutch4Bullitt.jpg
Bullitt-trans..jpg
View attachment 468300
 

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supertorque

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I will post more pics. as we go. It's still up in the air now but not for long. It's funny how much I got used to the back up camera and took it for granted. Not to mention reverse lights, blind spot monitoring, cross traffic alert, different drive modes, traction control, line lock, rev. match, launch control and probably a few more I can't think of at the moment.... ridiculous, just pure 100% stupidity on my part. So please learn from my mistake!!
 

Ruiner46

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Slowly making progress on my install, about to put the new bellhousing on for the first time. I see that there are two bolts longer than others, and these weird spacers, one with an offset. Where do these go?

bolts.PNG
 
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aleccolin

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Slowly making progress on my install, about to put the new bellhousing on for the first time. I see that there are two bolts longer than others, and these weird spacers, one with an offset. Where do these go?
bolts.PNG
They go in the threaded holes inside each of the alignment dowels. The thick spacers go over the alignment dowels which stick out proud of the bellhousing flange, and the longer bolts go through. The spacer that is concentric goes on the driver side and the spacer that’s is offset Goes on the passenger side.
 

Ruiner46

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They go in the threaded holes inside each of the alignment dowels. The thick spacers go over the alignment dowels which stick out proud of the bellhousing flange, and the longer bolts go through. The spacer that is concentric goes on the driver side and the spacer that’s is offset Goes on the passenger side.
Ah I see, thanks for the explanation.
 

supertorque

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I noticed something this weekend worth mentioning. The 2018 and up Mustang GT uses the newest version of the MT82 simply called the MT82D4. I know you are probably aware of that. But, what you might not be aware of is that they added something they call a shift inertia (mass) for reduced shift effort and improved shift feel. This is large metal piece that is located on the outside of the transmission and moves a good bit when you shift gears. I was playing around with it while we were taking a break and started to wonder if it might be causing the gear lock out I'm experiencing. I looked at where it will be located after the reinstall and sure enough there is a place that looks like it may have been rubbing on the fiberglass looking heat shield on the inside of the tunnel. I feel pretty certain that under torque the transmission may twist slightly and cause the inertia mass to press against the black colored fiberglass (I think) material and bind up. It's just a guess but if I hold the inertial mass with my hand while shifting I can definitely feel the resistance. I should have taken pictures and I will this evening.
 

biminiLX

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I’d definitely like to see that.
Also please let us know how you like the XClutch.
Good luck.
-J
 

supertorque

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Sorry I didn't get a picture of the inertia mass because by the time I got off work and made it to the shop my buddy had already bolted the tranny back in. I can say that I was wrong about it being the culprit to my gear lock out problem because I felt around the side of the transmission and could move it freely while the car was on the lift. However the install is done and to my surprise the lock out is gone! The xclutch grabs very quickly and a lot sooner than before so I don't have to move my leg as much. But I didn't think I would ever get my pedal back. I had to pump the clutch pedal over one hundred times before it finally started working and with the clutch assist spring pushing it all the way to the floor each time, I had to manually pull it back up with my toe until I decided to tie a piece of string to the pedal so I could just push and then pull and repeat for about 20 minutes. So yeah, the lock out is gone completely. I hate to admit it but I wasted 6 months and six thousand dollars for nothing. I don't know for sure if it was the heavy duty hard urethane motor mounts I put in or the Xclutch or the Blowfish shifter bracket but something did the trick. I'm pretty sure that it was a combination of all three that fixed it. I did jump to conclusions a little to fast on the inertia mass idea because that is not the issue at all. If you have the MT82D4 you can feel around the passenger side of the transmission under the car and find the inertia mass. Or you can find it in a diagram on google and see what I was talking about. Here is a picture of the Xclutch, original shift knob, and the sensor that I went thru hell trying to find for a couple of months. I would like to thank everyone that helped me find my way on this forum!
xclutch.jpg
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