Any minor issues with your new GT500?

[kilobravo]

PERFECT, Jaime and it DOES sound easier than I thought it would be. Question is, if mine are off, do I have the patience to deal with those clamps sagging after re-tightening? <smile> I'm not so sure these days. :-)

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[kilobravo]

And thanks, Tob...a picture is often worth a thousand words and in this case, immediately seeing what Jaime was talking about was like going to class on '500 Rear Diffusers. :-)

 

[The Chairman]

Funny thing is, the passenger seat also has two connections but both of them are connected to the Recaro seat.

The passenger seat has wiring for both the air bags and weight on seat sensor. Presume that would be two connectors.
The drivers side is just air bags.

 

[kilobravo]

You guys are just too smart, I swear, Don. :-) Makes perfect sense.

 

[The Chairman]

And thanks, Tob...a picture is often worth a thousand words and in this case, immediately seeing what Jaime was talking about was like going to class on '500 Rear Diffusers. :-)

I popped the rear diffuser off the first weekend I had it home to install the rear diff lockout bushings. It’s exactly the same as the GT350 and very simple R&R.

Also, my exhaust pipes are very straight and centered in the valence. I can see why the GT350 didn’t connect the exhaust pipes to those fake outlets mounted to the valence. Avoided the alignment problem completely.

 

[Nolimits88]

I finally got the car out for the first time here in upstate NY, and I must say I am disappointed with what I found. Me and another forum member over at SVTP have the same paint color and for some reason there are flaws in how this car was prepped paint and quality control. Simply put, the front driver fender would need repair and repainted.

 

[marklboris]

The passenger seat has wiring for both the air bags and weight on seat sensor. Presume that would be two connectors.
The drivers side is just air bags.

Ok, so this is my mistake. I just got the Recaro seats back from the upholstery shop today and noticed the passenger seat had a dummy socket secured to the underside that the second plug plugs into. I did not look that closely when I removed the plugs. So the issue on the drivers seat then, was the entire socket/plug came loose from the bracket on the bottom of the seat and that is whey it got caught in the rail and the wires were cut. So bottom line, both Recaro seats have only one plug hooked up while the second plug goes into a dummy socket and that is for the sports seats with power, heated and cooling features.

 

[kilobravo]

More good info, many thanks, Mark.

 

[marklboris]

Ok, anyone that has Recaro seats, should bring the seat all the way forward then look under the front of it to see if the connector that is not being used (one closest to the door) is being jammed against the rail. When I put my seat back in today, thought I would put the connectors back how they are supposed to be under the seat in their proper clips under the seat. Well, that unused connector started pulling and jamming against the rail when I would move the seat back and forth. It seems in my case the wire loom for this connector is too long and it forces that plug against the rail. I took it off the clip, wire tied it back to the loom and there it is going to sit.

 

[Epiphany]

Along the lines of improper strain relief...I noticed when removing my exhaust system that the harness for the exhaust valve actuators was way too close to the exhaust system and in some cases it was sitting on or touching it. It's wrapped to help mitigate heat issues but should not be in direct contact with the exhaust system. I popped the attached push pins, moved the harness further away and zip tied. A definite fail in my book that could potentially lead to exhaust mode choice issues.

 

[marklboris]

You are right and that is one I missed on my list of things in the first post. Left side was fine, right side the wire was almost touching the exhaust pipe. And here is another issue forgot to mention. My right front fender was too close to the front of the hood compared to the rest of the fender along the hood and the left side. Here is before and after. It might not look like it but I could barely put a credit card in-between the two.

 

[5.Oh Crush]

I agree with that. I said that in the resonator delete thread that the easy part was replacing the pipe. The hard part was getting the exhaust tips straight. While they are straight now, not sure how long they will last. When things settle down I will take the car to the muffler shop and have them welded so I know they won't move.

Any updates on getting pipes even? I don’t have jacks. Should I go to muffler shop or just let dealership fix at service? Thanks.

 

[marklboris]

It has been over a month and 500 miles and the tailpipes have not moved so I think I am ok. I was under the car last week and checked the clamps and tightened them up a bit more. I would still feel better if I had a muffler shop put a couple of tack welds close to the clamps so I know it won't move since I have the pipes where I want them.

 

[kilobravo]

That should easily be doable once things start opening up, Mark. I have a decent set of tools but one thing I don't have and have wanted for some time is a MIG welder. But I wouldn't have the cajones to do any welding even close to the fuel tank. Then again, I'm a wimp when it comes to risk. :-)

 

[marklboris]

Another issue that I am working on this morning. The gap between the passenger door and the front fender only at the bottom is so small that it almost looks like they can touch when opening. For reference I took a photo of the drivers side which is perfect. Since the door is perfectly aligned in every other position, I want to see if I can slightly move the lower part of the fender forward. Got it all torn apart right now, going in the backside of the fender to see if I can adjust it.

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