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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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robwlf

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so after all the new nuts and all the hassle.. i just did , gt350 half shafts and 2 new rear wheel bearings while i was there, and new axle nuts , clicking is gone totally... bearings were in good shape no noise or anything when rotating when i pulled them out. but i wanted to be safe then sorry so they got replaced .. damn happy that clicking is gone now i can romp it again lol
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Mighty

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I hate to bump this thread again, but I’m wondering if anybody can help me. I have a 2017 Roush Mustang that needs a new rear wheel hub. I ordered the axle nut, but it’s too small. Turns out Roush upgrades the half shafts to Ford Performance ones. Does anybody happen to know what the Part number is for the ones I need?
 

moffetts

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That’s a good question, and one I couldn’t find an answer to on my end. Have you contacted Ford Performance?
 

Elp_jc

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Now that somebody else brought this thread from the dead :D, may I ask if the problem was resolved for us 2019 and newer PP1 owners here? I read the first 12 pages, but realize I was wasting my time since those were older cars. Hoping Ford fixed whatever the problem was. By the way, the correct torque from the service manual (at least back then) was reported as 98 ft/lbs + 45 degrees (1/8th of a turn). Is that still the correct spec for 2019 cars? Hope it's not an issue anymore. Otherwise, to check my 2019 Bullitt. Thank you.
 

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Now that somebody else brought this thread from the dead :D, may I ask if the problem was resolved for us 2019 and newer PP1 owners here? I read the first 12 pages, but realize I was wasting my time since those were older cars. Hoping Ford fixed whatever the problem was. By the way, the correct torque from the service manual (at least back then) was reported as 98 ft/lbs + 45 degrees (1/8th of a turn). Is that still the correct spec for 2019 cars? Hope it's not an issue anymore. Otherwise, to check my 2019 Bullitt. Thank you.
The spec in my 2019 manual (dated August 2018) is 85 ft*lb and 30 degrees.
 

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Elp_jc

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The spec in my 2019 manual (dated August 2018) is 85 ft*lb and 30 degrees.
Damn; that's A LOT of difference from 98+45 to 85+30. Not sure what to do now. But my question remain: Is it even an issue on 2019 cars??? Otherwise why even touch it, especially with conflicting numbers. Thanks.
 

boB

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Damn; that's A LOT of difference from 98+45 to 85+30. Not sure what to do now. But my question remain: Is it even an issue on 2019 cars??? Otherwise why even touch it, especially with conflicting numbers. Thanks.
The difference between 98 and 85 is probably not much in terms of bolt stretch on a thread that size, both are probably just to get the joint fully seated. Guessing the thread pitch is 1 mm the difference in 30 and 45 degrees angle is about 0.002". I would like to measure the bolt stretch to see what the total is but for now I have no reason to remove the nut (< 4000 miles on my Mustang). It is a little disconcerting to see Ford change the spec so often!
 

Dr. Norts

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Just mark it with a sharpie on the axle / nut and periodically check it.

If you don't have a problem don't fuck with it.
 

Blufc3s

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The difference between 98 and 85 is probably not much in terms of bolt stretch on a thread that size, both are probably just to get the joint fully seated. Guessing the thread pitch is 1 mm the difference in 30 and 45 degrees angle is about 0.002". I would like to measure the bolt stretch to see what the total is but for now I have no reason to remove the nut (< 4000 miles on my Mustang). It is a little disconcerting to see Ford change the spec so often!
Also changed the nut!
 

boB

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That's a lot of difference when it comes to the clamp load that results from the difference in stretch. Proper torque on a bolted joint of this size thread creates clamp load in the ~60,000-70,000 lb range. Reducing both the torque and angle would drop that considerably, though it could be argued that the old standard likely resulted in a small amount of plastic deformation of the nut, which created the back-off condition.
You appear to know about bolted joints. I used to work at a company based in Illinois that did a lot of research on those. In this case with a splined joint that is a light press fit it seems there would be no rotational movement to make the nut turn. If that is the case is the joint relaxing to cause the loosening?
 

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Elp_jc

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Makes sense to me. Do you know when was the nut changed? Wonder which one my 2019 with build date of August 2019 has :).
 

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Welp, another hub bearing needs to be replaced. Not sure why these are so prone to this. Going to do both for good measure, but it's the driver's side again.
Did mine 8 months ago at about 29000 miles. Mine turned out to be the friction washer on the driver side only as well. Hub is still good. Read these pages and went thru an elimination process to get to the end result, being the washer. Like 2 others mentioned in this epic thread, i did not replace the washer, simply took out the old worn out and bent washer and put everything back on. No noise at all from the passenger side so i left it alone. Noise is completely gone, used to drive me crazy.

I did not see a valid reason for the washer being there except to maybe one day come apart from the groove it sat in, warp, and then get tossed around making those clanking noises. I bought one just in case but it doesnt even look like it would even keep friction or backside of the hub off of the shaft. There were no wear marks on shaft or hub side. Noises started at about 28k miles so about 1k miles driven on it including track days and x cross days. I am now getting the same noise from the PS side, although this is rare according to this thread, I guess im just lucky...Sucks i have to take it apart on the other side now ....i hear newer than 2016s dont even have these anymore which led to my conclusion with the others that a washer in that position is really not necessary.
 

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Went to replace the halfshafts with GT350 shafts - and noticed my stockers are basically the same as the GT350....I guess thats a good thing?

Driver side nut, I popped it loose with literally no effort.

Passenger side nut, it took a 5ft bar extension and myself and my wife bouncing on it to break loose the stock nut.

Installed the new GT350 shafts anyways - torqued to 150ftlbs with a bunch of 242 loctite.

Car has 300 miles on it BTW.
 

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I replaced the axle nuts on my car after 53k miles. Making a clicking noise on decel/acel. They were for sure loose.
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