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gen3.coyote

gen3.coyote

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Thank you for all the help. I actually ordered a new filter just now. I’ll keep you posted with everything!
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So update

(btw the car is running E85)

I touched base with Rick from Fore. I have dual regulators, checked the fuel line for kinks, swapped out the fuel filter, everything is ran exactly how Fore said it needs to run.

I've replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor as well as thee HPFP.

The car is still acting the same. I have done a KAM Reset to make sure there the pcm was stuck reading the code.

I do throw also P1888 and P0193.. So maybe a short somewhere? I checked the voltage on fuel pump and it's running right.

HALPPPPP!!!!! I am losing my mind over this car.
 
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So update

(btw the car is running E85)

I touched base with Rick from Fore. I have dual regulators, checked the fuel line for kinks, swapped out the fuel filter, everything is ran exactly how Fore said it needs to run.

I've replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor as well as thee HPFP.

The car is still acting the same. I have done a KAM Reset to make sure there the pcm was stuck reading the code.

I do throw also P1888 and P0193.. So maybe a short somewhere? I checked the voltage on fuel pump and it's running right.

HALPPPPP!!!!! I am losing my mind over this car.
So now ur running a dual regulator setup? So where is your port regular set to? Seems like you like you've some electrical gremlins.
 
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Thats the only thing I can think of now, is that it has to be electrical.

High Pressure side set at 58psi.
Port side is set at 43psi.
 

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Thats the only thing I can think of now, is that it has to be electrical.

High Pressure side set at 58psi.
Port side is set at 43psi.
Use your nguage to read what the regular is seeing. You may have to out a voltmeter on it to confirm.
 

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illtal

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ngauge reads between 40-30
So the fuel pressure code you put up says that circuit is bad you I would think it's an open wire. if it's an oscillating voltage (because it's close to other wires, you can read the same values over and over. They don't necessarily have to be static. I short would read 0 no matter what because it's shorted to ground. We know you're over 40 psi, with car key on, you should pick that up on the sensor as well. You're going to have to see if the wires are connected and also maybe put a volt meter on it.

I don't know what the other code is. What does the Ngauge say for that?
 
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So the fuel pressure code you put up says that circuit is bad you I would think it's an open wire. if it's an oscillating voltage (because it's close to other wires, you can read the same values over and over. They don't necessarily have to be static. I short would read 0 no matter what because it's shorted to ground. We know you're over 40 psi, with car key on, you should pick that up on the sensor as well. You're going to have to see if the wires are connected and also maybe put a volt meter on it.

I don't know what the other code is. What does the Ngauge say for that?
says it’s a oil temp circuit which makes me believe that there is a short in the harness somewhere.. I’ll look into today. Thank you so much for all your help
 

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says it’s a oil temp circuit which makes me believe that there is a short in the harness somewhere.. I’ll look into today. Thank you so much for all your help
I had to recall my USN days of being an ET. you can use the nguage to investigate whether it is a short or a cut (open) wire. If the oil temp stays at 0 or doesn't read anything it's likely a short/grounded wire.
 
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So back to the drawing board on this topic.. I am really starting to inner scream about this.

Fuel system - check, set up exactly how Fore wants it.
Tested fuses, relays, pumps, all works out.
I am getting oil temp is reading.

I'm lost for words at what this could be..
 

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So back to the drawing board on this topic.. I am really starting to inner scream about this.

Fuel system - check, set up exactly how Fore wants it.
Tested fuses, relays, pumps, all works out.
I am getting oil temp is reading.

I'm lost for words at what this could be..
Everything else good?
 

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Sadly still throwing the code... it’s like something is stopping the direct injection pump to pressure up the fuel.
Honestly I would take it to a specialist mustang shop. The only one I can recommend on personal experience for actually diagnosing and fixing stuff is Tradition Motorsports in Port Saint Lucie, Florida.

Top notch, I put my car on a trailer there for 500 usd and picked it up when they got finished. Joe, the owner there knows all about this stuff.

I'm sure there others in TX, but in Odessa, man I used to have to go way up there from Houston back in the day.
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