Power wash engine bay

[zero_chance]

I’m sure it’s been done but looking for any advice from someone that has actually done it on the S550. Live in Arizona so everything under the hood is covered in fine dust, which is very annoying when the hood is up. Just water and some elbow grease? Any kind of chemical? Zero leaks of any kind so not going to use any kind of degreaser or tire shine crap like some people use to “detail” the bay.

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[Boostamoose]

I will take the pressure washer to mine first. Follow up by foaming some APC over the entire engine bay. I'll use a big wheel brush for the large surfaces and a small lug brush for tighter spots. Blast it off again with the pressure washer and spray some 1:1 diluted water based tire/vinyl shine over it. I've done this on several cars at least 3 to 4 times each and never had a problem. Just don't blast any connections or focus wash one spot for too long, and you'll be fine. If you have a gas pressure washer, I'd definitely dial back the PSI.

 

[Joe 5.0]

What do you guys typically cover before spraying water into the engine bay? Looking to clean my engine bay this weekend.

Also, I don't recommend using the pressure washer--use light pressure from the hose since you're spraying electronics. Better safe than sorry!

 

[Boostamoose]

I personally don't cover anything. I feel confident that almost any car made after 09 will have a water tight engine bay. I certainly won't test this by blasting connections up close, but spraying water around in the bay uncovered will be fine. When I worked in a collision center, we'd leave cars on our lot in the elements without a front end, no hood, etc. They all started up and ran just fine, considering their damage, weeks later.

If you wanted to, I'd cover the alternator and avoid any visible connections with the water stream. They'll be fine if water trickles over them.

 

[Decosse]

@zero_chance , hey- I think I understand your dust problem-I'm in Las Vegas. It's like the wind is trying to build sand dunes under there. I've washed my 2016 S550's engine bay three times, so far. I was nervous enough about it at first to look it up (found it owners' manual pg 232 under vehicle care).

Yours is just dust, right? It'll come off easily.
What I do is: at the hand car wash with hi/lo pressure wands. Warm, not hot engine, turned off. I bring aluminum foil and plastic grocery bag-that goes over alternator. I wrap the coil wire connectors? with little foil pieces. Not necessary with engine cover. Straight to "wash" and keep pressure low, as soon as suds appear go quickly, thoroughly over everything under the hood. Immediately switch to "spot free" rinse. As soon as it's rinsed, take away plastic bag, etc, ,start the engine. After checking it over, close the hood and go for a little drive, until it's dry. Check for any little puddles left, sop them up.
When it's dry, I give a spray all over with a Chemical Guys product that gives it a sheen. The spray dries completely, I think it helps keeping the dust down.

Some places have a tire/engine setting. It's very harsh, made for grease, I wouldn't.
Engine pic is from today (yes, I have way too much time on my hands) It's a little dusty now, haven't cleaned it since January and it's been windy.
Anyway, that's how I do it. Hope that helps.

edit: Want to make sure it's clear-the wand I use sends water at no pressure- like a watering can- until you pull the trigger. Don't pull the trigger. Spot free rinse is very low pressure. owners manual recommends engine cleaning, using care.

 

[K4fxd]

How many have had the window up and down problem? When water gets into connections crazy crap happens. The computer works off .1 Volt or less increments.

The only way I would pressure wash my engine and compartment is if I added dielectric grease to every connection.

Flooding it with a garden hose with no pressure, maybe.

 

[zero_chance]

I ended up just steam cleaning mine and I’m very happy with the results. More tedious and takes longer but you have absolute control of where you clean.

 

[Decosse]

The only way I would pressure wash my engine and compartment is if I added dielectric grease to every connection.

Flooding it with a garden hose with no pressure, maybe.

Yeah, I agree with that, hope it was clear in my post, no pressure. You do not pull the trigger, just let it drizzle out. Way less water than water hose. Maybe I should edit

 

[vdin]

I power wash my s550 engine bay without covering anything. I first foam everything and then from 4 feet away rinse everything down for maybe 30 seconds. At that range the force of the water is reduced a good amount. It's not a deep clean but I'm just trying to get the light grease and dirt off of everything. No issues at all.

 

[K4fxd]

The connectors are better these days.

I was a drivability technician when the computers and fuel injection first came out. Many gremlins were due to corroded connections from people power washing the engine. I don't take chances, add dielectric grease to all connections, or don't wash engine bay.

 

[ice445]

I just use APC and a microfiber. Takes longer, but no chance of anything bad happening.

 

[Rapid Red]

Simple green does a good job and harmless. No need to blast the dirt and grim off. Be advised there are sever Simple green cleaning formulas, visit the site inform yourself .

Cold engine spray it down, let it sit for a bit, not drying. Water hose, start use pressure, you take a chance of pushing water into unwanted places.

Connecters are weather proof, having rubber or silicone gaskets internally . Go pulling connecters a part for the hell of it, is asking for trouble.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Here's how I have been keeping engines clean for eons...

1) Spray down under hood and engine bay (do not "supersoak", just spray down)
2) Get Simple Green - it will not harm metal or plastic surfaces
3) Spray the SG liberally over the entire engine and engine compartment
4) Wait about a good 10-15 mins
5) Rinse
6) Close hood and start engine
7) Let vehicle run a good 15 mins so heat from engine will dry mostly everything
8) Turn off vehicle
9) Pop hood and manually dry any areas where water may be laying
10) Use a dressing of your choice to wipe down any rubber/plastic items so they have a sheen - NOT a wet gloss.

That's it... been doing it for years, never had any issues afterwards. You can get the engine bay wet, but what some folks do wrong is they supersoak or drown it, which is when you run into starting problems.

Electronics and harnesses will be fine - they are designed to withstand water spray as many of the connectors are sealed - but not designed to be submerged (as in flood waters).

IF you have an OPEN AIR CAI (exposed filter element, such as Roush, GT350 and other aftermarket types) you MUST cover it with plastic bag, so the filter does not get soaked and so you’re not getting any residual water into the air intake tract. If you have the factory sealed airBOX assembly, no need to cover it as it’s sealed.

Another detailed trick/tip:
After dry, get WD40 and spray the metal areas - after spraying, again start car and let sit for 5-10 mins w/ hood closed. The WD40 will not ignite or cause any issues with anything, the heat will burn off any residual WD40 so don’t worry if you smell anything while car is running. After running car, just pop hood and wipe down any plastic surfaces.

WD40 will protect the metals from that oxidation and rust; the original intent and design of WD40 was to repel moisture and water - which will help to prevent that oxi build up due to constant changing weather conditions.

I’ve been doing the above for years with any vehicle I’ve had, including my 94 Cobra - and it works.

The attached image is of my 94 Cobra engine bay as it looks today. If I didn't tell you all, you wouldn't believe it has almost 145k original miles and was driven 24/7/365 in every season here in NJ up until 2007. The engine has never been out of the car and the attached aluminum parts/accessories are all original and look as new as they were right out of their parts bins back in 94...LOL.

I did the above process every time I washed the car (so about 1x a week). The WD40 not only protects the metal, but also any other surfaces such as plastics and rubber surfaces/components.

You don't need a slew of the most expensive name brand detailing shit, just some good old smarts and use of existing products available anywhere.

 

[Black19GT]

That engine bay looks brand new Cobra Jet! Great job sir!

 

[inspecto]

I personally don't cover anything. I feel confident that almost any car made after 09 will have a water tight engine bay. I certainly won't test this by blasting connections up close, but spraying water around in the bay uncovered will be fine. When I worked in a collision center, we'd leave cars on our lot in the elements without a front end, no hood, etc. They all started up and ran just fine, considering their damage, weeks later.

If you wanted to, I'd cover the alternator and avoid any visible connections with the water stream. They'll be fine if water trickles over them.

I 2nd this I've done mine a few times with no issue just use some common sense.

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