Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[db252]

From Bowler:

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[AramEJ]

Yes I do have the manual I went through it couple times I even changed my 3-1 check the wiring.

 

[AramEJ]

Ab252 after you set 36 in the 3-1 you don’t need to do anything in the ECU except setting up the gear ratio table right? do you know in what tablets you set the gear ratio i want to confirm what I have with yours if it’s possible also if you can check the # in VSS.
Thank you.

 

[AramEJ]

Ab252 or if you can send me your tun file or I can send you mine to compare it, I know you have 2016 Mustang GT PP and I have the same, I appreciate your help.

 

[Ashtar]

Ab252 or if you can send me your tun file or I can send you mine to compare it, I know you have 2016 Mustang GT PP and I have the same, I appreciate your help.

The username your looking for is not ab252 but db252. Assuming that is.

 

[biminiLX]

I’m looking to list my ‘14 GT500 TR6060 setup.
I drag race and while the engine was out, I went with a Magnum XL for the SFI bell and direct mount shifter.
Anyway, it’s the full setup, with crossmember and the sensors, even the CF driveshaft.
Does this ‘14 TR6060 have potential for S550 guys swapping?
I love the 2.66 first 0.50 sixth combo personally with 4.10s.
-J

 

[aleccolin]

Finally getting started on this job, the 'rona shutdown has me working from home unless i'm on jobsites, just as many hours but no commute which means 10-12 hours more each week I can dedicate some time to fun stuff.

I've got a midrise MaxJax lift which is great, but no other help nearby, so I'm being real careful how I go about it. Got the exhaust dropped and the driveshaft out, and after hoisting the Tremec up out of the crate, I decided I needed a transmission jack.

(this wobbly motherfucker...)

Nobody makes a midrise transmission jack, so I picked up one from Northern and and chopped it all to shit, now it should be short enough to do the job.

Stock

Shortified

Broke the bezel around the shifter inside trying to get it popped loose, so I'll have to replace that, add another $60 to the bill for this job. Those plastic clips are the Devil.

Spent way too much time installing some BMR motor mount brackets, because I'll be bolting on a blower next and wanted to lower the engine a little for intercooler cover clearance to the K member. There was ONE bolt on each bracket that was impossible to get the right angle to get started. I eventually got it, only after clearancing the mount a smidge with a belt grinder and going through every possible combination of extensions, wobble extensions, universals, sockets, and swivel sockets in the toolbox.

What's hilarious is that if you go on BMR's website and look at their installed pictures, one of them shows the drivers side bracket installed, except that one stupid bolt isn't threaded in, probably because it didn't line up like it should. Fucking half-assery right there.

Either way, got it done, but that used up the rest of my Sunday evening, gonna work on getting the MT82 out tonight. And before you say it, I will be shimming the transmission crossmember down to fix the driveline angle. I was going to lower the engine 1/2", but that seemed like too much as the oil pan sump was basically flush with the crossmember, so I only went down 1/4". That should be enough for the clearance I'll need and won't screw my driveline angle as badly. As an added benefit, if I decide to do longtubes, the less bulky brackets will make it easier to get at the header bolts.

So if anyone has tips on removing the MT-82, now's the time!

 

[db252]

Having the trans jack is 90% of the battle so you'll be good with that for removal of the mt82 and install of the Tremec. Let the trans hang down as far as it will go so to ease access to the upper bell housing bolts. You will absolutely love the separate bell housing setup for the install. I use a small rubber plug to put over the clutch line when I disconnect it from any transmission jobs I do so it doesn't drain out. Pull the clip on the upper portion of the elbow near the bell housing when disconnecting the clutch line and get/use a plug or whatever you choose to stop the flow.

After the mt82 is out, don't forget to push out that section of the body some to avoid hitting the reverse lockout solenoid before getting the Tremec in.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions. I'm currently installing my third (different peoples cars) Tremec at the moment. Waiting on the driveshaft but working on plenty of other projects this person wants.

Also, what clutch is going in?

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Finally getting started on this job, the 'rona shutdown has me working from home unless i'm on jobsites, just as many hours but no commute which means 10-12 hours more each week I can dedicate some time to fun stuff.

I've got a midrise MaxJax lift which is great, but no other help nearby, so I'm being real careful how I go about it. Got the exhaust dropped and the driveshaft out, and after hoisting the Tremec up out of the crate, I decided I needed a transmission jack.

(this wobbly motherfucker...)

Nobody makes a midrise transmission jack, so I picked up one from Northern and and chopped it all to shit, now it should be short enough to do the job.

Stock

Shortified

Broke the bezel around the shifter inside trying to get it popped loose, so I'll have to replace that, add another $60 to the bill for this job. Those plastic clips are the Devil.

Spent way too much time installing some BMR motor mount brackets, because I'll be bolting on a blower next and wanted to lower the engine a little for intercooler cover clearance to the K member. There was ONE bolt on each bracket that was impossible to get the right angle to get started. I eventually got it, only after clearancing the mount a smidge with a belt grinder and going through every possible combination of extensions, wobble extensions, universals, sockets, and swivel sockets in the toolbox.

What's hilarious is that if you go on BMR's website and look at their installed pictures, one of them shows the drivers side bracket installed, except that one stupid bolt isn't threaded in, probably because it didn't line up like it should. Fucking half-assery right there.

Either way, got it done, but that used up the rest of my Sunday evening, gonna work on getting the MT82 out tonight. And before you say it, I will be shimming the transmission crossmember down to fix the driveline angle. I was going to lower the engine 1/2", but that seemed like too much as the oil pan sump was basically flush with the crossmember, so I only went down 1/4". That should be enough for the clearance I'll need and won't screw my driveline angle as badly. As an added benefit, if I decide to do longtubes, the less bulky brackets will make it easier to get at the header bolts.

So if anyone has tips on removing the MT-82, now's the time!

What size spacers did you decide on for the crossmember? Going to try and resolve the issue tomorrow at is it's vibrating so much, I think it's the root cause of some random misfire codes I'm getting each time I go over 85 mph (they clear themselves once I slow down a bit).

 

[aleccolin]

So, I got excited and just kind of jumped into pulling the trans without a FSM or anything, got it loose but can’t get it out, so you have to unbolt the passenger side down tube and cat from the header to make room?

 

[aleccolin]

Also, what clutch is going in?

I'm using a Tilton ST-246 (organic, sprung hub) and a Tilton 6000 series HRB. Or at least I will be, as soon as I can figure out how to get this bitch ass downpipe off the passenger side to clear the trans so I can get the damn thing out!

What size spacers did you decide on for the crossmember?

My situation is unique having lowered the engine, but I should need 1/4" spacers between the body and transmission crossmember to get back to OE driveline angles. The QA1 driveshaft doesn't seem to be quite as finicky as some others, but I'll check the angles and shim as required.

 

[db252]

I'm using a Tilton ST-246 (organic, sprung hub) and a Tilton 6000 series HRB. Or at least I will be, as soon as I can figure out how to get this bitch ass downpipe off the passenger side to clear the trans so I can get the damn thing out!

Let me know if you have an issue with the flywheel bore mounting up. Was doing another install for someone who bought that and couldn’t get the flywheel on as the bore was too small. They sent us another flywheel and same issue. I really hope that’s not the case for you but check ASAP. I’ve had several emails back and forth with Gary at Tilton and contact him if there is an issue.

Also here is the part about removing passenger side cat assembly for transmission removal.

 

[aleccolin]

Let me know if you have an issue with the flywheel bore mounting up. Was doing another install for someone who bought that and couldn’t get the flywheel on as the bore was too small. They sent us another flywheel and same issue. I really hope that’s not the case for you but check ASAP. I’ve had several emails back and forth with Gary at Tilton and contact him if there is an issue.

Also here is the part about removing passenger side cat assembly for transmission removal.

Cool, thanks for that. I bought and downloaded a FSM last night when I found out that Ford won't even sell you one anymore, so hopefully I can avoid doing dumb shit like this again.

I'll check out the flywheel and mic the bore as soon as I get everything apart.

 

[aleccolin]

The bitch is out, I’ll get back to it tomorrow after work.

 

[aleccolin]

Let me know if you have an issue with the flywheel bore mounting up. Was doing another install for someone who bought that and couldn’t get the flywheel on as the bore was too small. They sent us another flywheel and same issue.

No issue with the flywheel, couple thou interference fit same as OE, bores mic’d exactly the same and the flywheel pulled down square with the OE bolts without issue. Only issue so far is they put the wrong ARP flywheel bolts in the box so I’m just gonna order the right ones off Amazon.

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