Question for those with active cooling of diff and/or transmission

[Hack]

I'm looking at adding transmission and differential coolers to my 2017 GT and I'm not sure what the best way is to control the pumps. There are a few solutions, but most are for radiator (engine water) cooling. I saw an article on Ford Muscle (linked on here) where they used an AEM Infinity standalone, but that thing is crazy expensive. I'd prefer to have some adjustment, but I'm not 100% set on that. I was also considering using the differential temperature switch to turn on both pumps. It might over cool the transmission slightly, but I'm not too worried about that.

Anyway, please post what you've been doing, why and how you like it.

Sponsored

 

[Ewheels]

I'm looking at adding transmission and differential coolers to my 2017 GT and I'm not sure what the best way is to control the pumps. There are a few solutions, but most are for radiator (engine water) cooling. I saw an article on Ford Muscle (linked on here) where they used an AEM Infinity standalone, but that thing is crazy expensive. I'd prefer to have some adjustment, but I'm not 100% set on that. I was also considering using the differential temperature switch to turn on both pumps. It might over cool the transmission slightly, but I'm not too worried about that.

Anyway, please post what you've been doing, why and how you like it.

I don't know about the trans coolers but I would suggest buying the FTBR diff cooler. I've read great things about it. It uses the factory diff sensor to kick on at your desired temperature. (Did only the 2018s and up come with a diff sensor??)
I've read some people override the sensor and simply hard wire it to a switch so it's always off for the streets and then you turn it on while on track. Super simple, that's how I would set it up myself. I personally haven't seen high enough diff temps yet to justify buying one.

 

[AlbertD]

I concur with Ewheels, the day I need to go with tranny/diff coolers I plan to wire the pumps to a simple switch so that they can be turned on during a track event, otherwise I would keep them off. The tranny and diff are not likely to approach high temps even with aggressive street driving so no use in overworking the life of the pumps.

I'm currently running a FRPP trans scoop (soon to be modified), exhaust wrap near the diff and BG fluid in both the trans/diff... so far haven't had any overheating issues from either component out on track throughout 20 min sessions.

 

[Hack]

I don't know about the trans coolers but I would suggest buying the FTBR diff cooler. I've read great things about it. It uses the factory diff sensor to kick on at your desired temperature. (Did only the 2018s and up come with a diff sensor??)
I've read some people override the sensor and simply hard wire it to a switch so it's always off for the streets and then you turn it on while on track. Super simple, that's how I would set it up myself. I personally haven't seen high enough diff temps yet to justify buying one.

Thanks for your thoughts. I like the FTBR diff cooler, but I'm considering going with a fan/radiator unit that will accommodate both the diff and trans rather than just cooling one thing. My assumption is that the transmission is very close to getting hot when the diff starts getting hot. I prefer not to just let it cook. My assumption is that Ford saved a few bucks leaving the transmission sensor out because they knew in stock form the diff got hot first. So once you start doing something to keep the diff cool, the transmission will be a problem (even more so because there's no temperature sensor to warn you).

A simple switch isn't a bad idea.

I don't think I will be able to get by without some kind of cooler. My experience shows that when I drive on track the car tends to get hot relatively quickly. The GT350 without coolers only took 5 or 6 minutes to get too hot on a 65 degree day. The C5 Z06 I owned made it through one session but got hot quickly during the second session (on another cool day). I'd much rather have something before I go than pay the money for a track session and end up frustrated at the end of the day.

Although - with two separate people in hot climates saying they don't have trouble - maybe I'm worrying too much about this.

 

[Ewheels]

Thanks for your thoughts. I like the FTBR diff cooler, but I'm considering going with a fan/radiator unit that will accommodate both the diff and trans rather than just cooling one thing. My assumption is that the transmission is very close to getting hot when the diff starts getting hot. I prefer not to just let it cook. My assumption is that Ford saved a few bucks leaving the transmission sensor out because they knew in stock form the diff got hot first. So once you start doing something to keep the diff cool, the transmission will be a problem (even more so because there's no temperature sensor to warn you).

A simple switch isn't a bad idea.

I don't think I will be able to get by without some kind of cooler. My experience shows that when I drive on track the car tends to get hot relatively quickly. The GT350 without coolers only took 5 or 6 minutes to get too hot on a 65 degree day. The C5 Z06 I owned made it through one session but got hot quickly during the second session (on another cool day). I'd much rather have something before I go than pay the money for a track session and end up frustrated at the end of the day.

Although - with two separate people in hot climates saying they don't have trouble - maybe I'm worrying too much about this.

I don't know what kind of track days you do but it seems the regular GT (not GT350) will survive just enough on 20 min sessions. Obviously there are many factors at play here but using good fluids, heat wrap your exhaust near the diff, and properly utilize the cool-down lap, your diff should be ok. I know other drivers who are MUCH faster than I am and they don't have a need for a diff cooler either. Engine temps and engine oil temps are a different story but diff should be fine.

 

[Hack]

I don't know what kind of track days you do but it seems the regular GT (not GT350) will survive just enough on 20 min sessions. Obviously there are many factors at play here but using good fluids, heat wrap your exhaust near the diff, and properly utilize the cool-down lap, your diff should be ok. I know other drivers who are MUCH faster than I am and they don't have a need for a diff cooler either. Engine temps and engine oil temps are a different story but diff should be fine.

I'm planning to do Race Louvers front and side vents in the hood hoping that will help with engine cooling.

Just regular HPDE days. I assume I'm slow; I don't have a ton of days in. I don't wear out tires super fast or anything. When the car starts understeering a lot I figure I'm overcooking it so I feel that I don't push those limits very much. In the GT350 I even ran some track days in normal mode and I didn't feel it was overly intrusive. But I don't have much patience to pay for a track day and then drive slowly short shifting not flooring it on every straight, not using the brakes hard, etc. I'm planning a front brake cooling ducts kit as well.

Not sure on the heat thing. I will consider it some more, but I'm pretty set on doing something. It just really sucks going to a HPDE day in a car that gets hot fast and having the feeling you are wrecking your car.

 

[AlbertD]

The MT82 does a great job at managing temps (built in heat sink) versus the GT350 and as long as you have an hour or two for the car to sit between sessions, temps should be manageable with some simple upgrades as Ewheels mentioned. I have been tracking the car for a few years with ambient temps approaching 100 degrees and the car has been solid. If anything, I've had more problems managing engine temp then I have tranny or diff. Another thing to take into account as well, depending on driving style... the diff could get hot quite quickly if rear traction/stability control is activated frequently out on track. The smoother the driving style (or by turning off traction/stability) the better the diff will manage heat.

 

[AlbertD]

... It just really sucks going to a HPDE day in a car that gets hot fast and having the feeling you are wrecking your car.

I bought this car brand new with the intention of slowly turning it into a track car... it's been out on track (driven hard) for over 60 hours. Honestly to my surprise, this thing has been bulletproof with the exception of some fairly minor things that need to be upgraded (pads, suspension, heat evacuation, etc...). As long as you maintain the car properly by changing fluids at an accelerated rate and periodic inspections, I wouldn't think twice about tracking the car. As you progress in skill the car will tell you what it needs to keep going. Let er rip, the Coyote loves it

 

[Hack]

The MT82 does a great job at managing temps (built in heat sink) versus the GT350 and as long as you have an hour or two for the car to sit between sessions, temps should be manageable with some simple upgrades as Ewheels mentioned. I have been tracking the car for a few years with ambient temps approaching 100 degrees and the car has been solid. If anything, I've had more problems managing engine temp then I have tranny or diff. Another thing to take into account as well, depending on driving style... the diff could get hot quite quickly if rear traction/stability control is activated frequently out on track. The smoother the driving style (or by turning off traction/stability) the better the diff will manage heat.

IIRC we get 50 minutes between some sessions and some are farther apart. I have no idea what will happen for me in a GT with respect to diff temps - my GT350 tech pack only had the transmission temp sensor because that is what got hot on that car. But once I added the coolers to the GT350 and was able to push harder I definitely had the diff cooler pump come on. I don't think I activate the traction control very often. I realize the GT nannies are going to kick in a lot sooner, so I expect to have to turn traction control completely off.

Like I said, one big thing I don't want to do is modify to cool the diff and ignore the transmission.

Edit: you say the MT 82 manages heat well. What temperature does yours get to when you are on track?

 

[AlbertD]

IIRC we get 50 minutes between some sessions and some are farther apart. I have no idea what will happen for me in a GT with respect to diff temps - my GT350 tech pack only had the transmission temp sensor because that is what got hot on that car. But once I added the coolers to the GT350 and was able to push harder I definitely had the diff cooler pump come on. I don't think I activate the traction control very often. I realize the GT nannies are going to kick in a lot sooner, so I expect to have to turn traction control completely off.

Like I said, one big thing I don't want to do is modify to cool the diff and ignore the transmission.

Edit: you say the MT 82 manages heat well. What temperature does yours get to when you are on track?

The few times I only had an hour or less between sessions, I did have an issue with diff temp creeping out of control so in that case, a cooler may certainly be a good idea. For the trans temp, I don't have any data to share as I don't have a dedicated temp sensor. (I need to get one). To clarify, my comment was based on the design of the heat sink built into the bottom of the MT82 in conjunction with having no issues with my tranny throughout the years.

 

[Hack]

The few times I only had an hour or less between sessions, I did have an issue with diff temp creeping out of control so in that case, a cooler may certainly be a good idea. For the trans temp, I don't have any data to share as I don't have a dedicated temp sensor. (I need to get one). To clarify, my comment was based on the design of the heat sink built into the bottom of the MT82 in conjunction with having no issues with my tranny throughout the years.

I double checked and afternoon sessions are 1/2 hour apart. I think I'm going to stick with my plan of adding the cooling.

 

[boardkat]

you will fry 3rd or 4th gear without a cooler eventually, if car is driven hard 20 minutes at a time on fast courses.
fwiw, i never see temps above 220 with a trans cooler, with sensor on the suck port so fluid is being sampled hot. others have seen >300 sampled at the same spot without a cooler.

same with the diff, expect temps >300 without one under the same circumstances. i never see more than 220 with my FTBR setup (sensor also on suck port). you can run without cooling, but be prepared for frequent fluid changes due to oil shear. or lost track time on the 16+ due to limp mode.

.. and to answer OPs question: on my setup, tranny cooler is wired to a switch i turn on/off as needed, while diff is triggered by a sensor (trigger temp set manually) - i also have temp sensors on both suck ports wired into a gauge pod mounted on the dash. i will probably eliminate the diff trigger and wire in another switch soon (to eliminate a potential point of failure).

 

[Hack]

.. and to answer OPs question: on my setup, tranny cooler is wired to a switch i turn on/off as needed, while diff is triggered by a sensor (trigger temp set manually) - i also have temp sensors on both suck ports wired into a gauge pod mounted on the dash. i will probably eliminate the diff trigger and wire in another switch soon (to eliminate a potential point of failure).

Thanks for the info. What kind of switches and sensors do you use? Gages?

 

[boardkat]

Thanks for the info. What kind of switches and sensors do you use? Gages?

sensors/gauges/wiring = glowshift
switch = whatever i had in the toolbox at the time

 

[Hack]

.. and to answer OPs question: on my setup, tranny cooler is wired to a switch i turn on/off as needed, while diff is triggered by a sensor (trigger temp set manually) - i also have temp sensors on both suck ports wired into a gauge pod mounted on the dash. i will probably eliminate the diff trigger and wire in another switch soon (to eliminate a potential point of failure).

One other question just wondering is there a reason to necessarily do two switches rather than triggering your relays all with a single switch? I don't know much about switches/wiring/relays and I was assuming you could use a single switch to run all of it. I realize your car is more single purpose so extra switches are no big deal. I was just thinking a single switch would be easier for me to hide.

Sponsored