PP1 swaybar modification

[fatbillybob]

Anyone know if the non-PP1 front mount is the same size as the PP1 front swaybar mount? I used a airtool and stripped/destroyed the bonded bushing. I'm wondering if the bushings will fit the PP1 mounting shell?

The PP1 swaybar with bonded bushing is a real piece of trash. Why would anyone do this is beyond me. If they wanted a stiffer bar just drill a less leveraged hole. For anyone who wants to remove the bonded bushing here are the steps:

1- drill the peened metal of each mount hole to weaken it
2- air hammer the retaining flat plate off
3- grab ear of mount and wiggle it and it will come off the bushing.
4- air hammer the bushing off which has an embeded metal shell in it.
5- pry off the embeded shell/cut some rubber and rip the bushing off the bar.
6- abrasive wheel off the bonded rubber to clean metal.

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[BmacIL]

PP1 swaybar with bonded bushing is a real piece of trash. Why would anyone do this is beyond me

Direct quote from vehicle dynamics engineer who works on S550 (and has since 2013): "for on-center steering feel/effort".

There is so much intentionally bound up rubber in this platform it's crazy. Removing those sources improves the car dramatically...both handling and ride.

 

[fatbillybob]

Yes! Even with adjustsble endkinks the bound up swaybar mounts throw my perfect 50% cross weight off 2%. That is huge. So for the short term I am putting normal mounts and drilling another hole in the arm end to up the rate a bit. That should be faster that waiting for new bars to come in the mail.

FWIW some videos show pp1 bar removal out passenger side. Not possible. The pp1 bar goes out drivers side easily. This is becsuse the bound mounts catch stuff. If you have normal mounts you can take bar out either side

 

[GMB Racing]

I did a side by side of the non pp and pp1 bar for my 2015 the only difference the molded on bushings.

 

[Bluemustang]

Yes! Even with adjustsble endkinks the bound up swaybar mounts throw my perfect 50% cross weight off 2%. That is huge. So for the short term I am putting normal mounts and drilling another hole in the arm end to up the rate a bit. That should be faster that waiting for new bars to come in the mail.

FWIW some videos show pp1 bar removal out passenger side. Not possible. The pp1 bar goes out drivers side easily. This is becsuse the bound mounts catch stuff. If you have normal mounts you can take bar out either side

If you're ever looking for a GT350 front bar - hit me up I've got one.

 

[BmacIL]

Yes! Even with adjustsble endkinks the bound up swaybar mounts throw my perfect 50% cross weight off 2%. That is huge. So for the short term I am putting normal mounts and drilling another hole in the arm end to up the rate a bit. That should be faster that waiting for new bars to come in the mail.

FWIW some videos show pp1 bar removal out passenger side. Not possible. The pp1 bar goes out drivers side easily. This is becsuse the bound mounts catch stuff. If you have normal mounts you can take bar out either side

If you think that's bad, the rear LCA bushing is even more atrocious. Tightened, it's got a wheel rate increase of at least 80-100 lb/in, though almost certainly more. Changing that to a bearing is a dramatic difference.

 

[GregO]

Changing that to a bearing is a dramatic difference.

Are there any companies selling lower arms w/bearing preinstalled ?

 

[BmacIL]

Are there any companies selling lower arms w/bearing preinstalled ?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...piece-of-the-puzzle.36184/page-2#post-1690690

C&D Autotech.

You can also buy takeoff arms and then take them to a shop to get pressed in (what many of us did).

 

[Järn]

You can also buy takeoff arms and then take them to a shop to get pressed in (what many of us did).

Were the takeoff arms cheaper than $244 (each) ?
https://www.fordpartsconnect.com/v-...-5-0l-v8-gas/rear-suspension--rear-suspension

 

[BmacIL]

Were the takeoff arms cheaper than $244 (each) ?
https://www.fordpartsconnect.com/v-...-5-0l-v8-gas/rear-suspension--rear-suspension

Takeoff on ebay or other places. Those are new.

 

[fatbillybob]

I did a side by side of the non pp and pp1 bar for my 2015 the only difference the molded on bushings.

Do you remember if the swaybar mounting U shaped shell was the same size PP1 vs non-PP1?

 

[Radiation Joe]

Do you remember if the swaybar mounting U shaped shell was the same size PP1 vs non-PP1?

I'm thinking about going the delrin sway bar mount route.

https://www.ridetech.com/products/components/posi-links-components/delrin-lined-sway-bar-mounts/

Just size their mount to your bar.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

...the rear LCA bushing is even more atrocious. Tightened, it's got a wheel rate increase of at least 80-100 lb/in, though almost certainly more.

That is huge. Good data to know, thanks.

 

[Bluemustang]

The rear end feels very different with the RLCA bearings in. It actually reacts with every imperfection and what you feel is direct input without the bushings binding up everything.

 

[BmacIL]

That is huge. Good data to know, thanks.

Not sure if you ever saw my video trying to press it down as a demonstration right before swapping arms with the bearings. It's hard to understate the improvement to the car with those bearings (BK055 specifically, but I'm sure all the quality monoballs do a great job).

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