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Whats the best rear brake upgrade for the PP GT's?

Hack

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It's simple, if he wants GT 350 type braking then get the GT 350 brake kit. ~ 4K for the GT 350 kit or 10K plus to go aftermarket, you decide.
It's a good functional solution except there is a slight problem being that the new GT350 rotors don't have slots or holes.
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BmacIL

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It's simple, if he wants GT 350 type braking then get the GT 350 brake kit. ~ 4K for the GT 350 kit or 10K plus to go aftermarket, you decide.
Plus potentially new wheels to clear the GT350 brakes. Many 19" won't.
 

Andy13186

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Pretty happy with my Baer Eradispeed+ 2 piece rotors, saved 24 lbs of rotating mass too. Still using the stock calipers though.
 

barron64

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Here's what I ended up doing.

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Man, that setup looks great! Hope you have some wheels that allow you to see those. You know you are getting older when you can appreciate brake/suspension upgrades, lol. When I was younger, if it didn't make the car faster in a straight line I wasn't interested.
I upgraded my PP1 brakes with a full set of Steeda full floating rotors due to a damn group buy I got sucked into. The rear stock calipers are just ugly compared to the front 6 piston Brembo's and leaving them the stock charcoal color is probably best option,
 

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Hey Guys,

I'll be very honest I'm fairly new to the topic of brakes and what works best, so I thought I would ask. I currently have a 2018 GT PP1 with the 6 piston front brake and the factory brake in the rear that comes with the car. I've been looking at a rear brake upgrade for the car for while now. I want to run slotted and drilled rotors all around, and upgrade the rear to a 4 piston Brembo brake if possible and retain the front because to my understanding the gt350's out there just use their 4 piston rear brake as their hand brake. So what do you guys recommend?

I could go for a dual rear caliper set up to maintain the hand brake and then install a secondary 4 piston. However I would like to retain the front 6 piston Brembo in the front, and be able to run a 4 piston Brembo in the rear and have matching slotted and drilled rotors all around. If there is a way to accomplish this with the rear it would be great to hear.

I understand I can do the gt350 brake conversion kit but that's a full revamp to everything and very expensive.

Sincerely,
Hypestang

Also if this is not the right thread to post this in please let me know
From a performance stand point, you DO NOT need upgraded calipers in the rear. You'll just throw off the brake bias and ultimately make the car worse. If you feel you do not have enough braking performance, then upgrade your pads and tires. Your tires are what actually slow the car down so if you were to upgrade the calipers with the same tires, then you will be in literally the exact same situation.
Also, NEVER buy drilled rotors for performance use. They'll prematurely crack and you'll just waste your money.

If you're doing this for looks, then performance is irrelevant. Might as well put Lambo doors on it while you're at it; who cares.
 

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Andy13186

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From a performance stand point, you DO NOT need upgraded calipers in the rear. You'll just throw off the brake bias and ultimately make the car worse. If you feel you do not have enough braking performance, then upgrade your pads and tires. Your tires are what actually slow the car down so if you were to upgrade the calipers with the same tires, then you will be in literally the exact same situation.
Also, NEVER buy drilled rotors for performance use. They'll prematurely crack and you'll just waste your money.

If you're doing this for looks, then performance is irrelevant. Might as well put Lambo doors on it while you're at it; who cares.
Pretty sure that the drilled rotors cracking more often is a myth, if you search google images for cracked rotors youlll find more plain and slotted rotors cracked actually. Also drilled and slotted rotors do help performance more by reducing rotating mass a bit more than plain or slotted and allowing more pad offgassing to escape reducing fade. The only applicable performance increase from rotors for most people who just drive on the street and drag strip is reducing the weight of the rotors, which drilled and slotted are best at. I do agree that tires do make a bigger difference in most circumstances.

My front baer's have 6 holes in their drill line instead of 3 like that prior posters, not sure why. Saved 24 lbs of rotating mass though over stock plain rotors, have had no problems with them even breaking them in harder than I would ever normally drive. I do get a slight pad squeak at times though. Kept the OEM pads and calipers.

 

boardkat

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not a myth. drilled rotors *WILL* crack between holes when subjected to the rigors of track abuse and multiple heating/cooling cycles from ambient to 1500deg+ and back down.
and not the surface cracks you see on blank/slotted rotors (which are fine and expected) - actual *DEEP* cracks that could lead to terminal failure. not something you want to happen when braking down hard from 150+ and failure means you end up in a wall

.. and to answer OPs question, you will not find anything better than this:
https://www.essexparts.com/essex-designed-ap-racing-competition-brake-kit-rear-cp5040340mm-s550

.. but be prepared to eliminate the ABS module/EBFD and add a bosch electronic or manual bias controller if you want to get the most out of it (lest the stock system cripple your mod)
 

BmacIL

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not a myth. drilled rotors *WILL* crack between holes when subjected to the rigors of track abuse and multiple heating/cooling cycles from ambient to 1500deg+ and back down.
and not the surface cracks you see on blank/slotted rotors (which are fine and expected) - actual *DEEP* cracks that could lead to terminal failure. not something you want to happen when braking down hard from 150+ and failure means you end up in a wall
This. If you actually USE the brakes, drilled ferrous rotors are going to crack. Carbon ceramic are a different beast.
 

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boardkat

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... and just realized i inadvertently ventured out of the track forum, my bad, forgot i don’t know anything out here in the wild and should just be posting PFA. have fun out there :)
 

Chris Barnes

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It's not a cheap system for sure. By far my favorite modification to the car. I think retail is in the 7K range if you did all four corners. I'm wondering if you could just do the rears but not sure how the brake bias would work out? I'm sure the guys at Baer could answer that for you.
 

Chris Barnes

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From a performance stand point, you DO NOT need upgraded calipers in the rear. You'll just throw off the brake bias and ultimately make the car worse. If you feel you do not have enough braking performance, then upgrade your pads and tires. Your tires are what actually slow the car down so if you were to upgrade the calipers with the same tires, then you will be in literally the exact same situation.
Also, NEVER buy drilled rotors for performance use. They'll prematurely crack and you'll just waste your money.

If you're doing this for looks, then performance is irrelevant. Might as well put Lambo doors on it while you're at it; who cares.
I'll humbly disagree. These heavy cars want a ton more rear brake. There's a reason the GT350's have a 4 piston caliper in the rear. Mine are 6 piston on all 4 corners including the rears for aesthetics, however the rear piston diameters are greatly reduced to get the correct bias. When you grab a bunch of brake in my car, it feels like it squats instead of a slight nose over. The confidence and ability to stop without effort is amazing and in my opinion much more impressive than big power. The factory PP1 calipers and stock rears on my car performed nothing like the Baer system. Also keep in mind I'm running their least aggressive pads to keep the dust and noise at an OEM level. I know they are crazy expensive, but the result is crazy amazing.
 

Hack

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Pretty sure that the drilled rotors cracking more often is a myth, if you search google images for cracked rotors youlll find more plain and slotted rotors cracked actually. Also drilled and slotted rotors do help performance more by reducing rotating mass a bit more than plain or slotted and allowing more pad offgassing to escape reducing fade. The only applicable performance increase from rotors for most people who just drive on the street and drag strip is reducing the weight of the rotors, which drilled and slotted are best at. I do agree that tires do make a bigger difference in most circumstances.

My front baer's have 6 holes in their drill line instead of 3 like that prior posters, not sure why. Saved 24 lbs of rotating mass though over stock plain rotors, have had no problems with them even breaking them in harder than I would ever normally drive. I do get a slight pad squeak at times though. Kept the OEM pads and calipers.

If you ever browse the GT350 forum area you will see a number of photos of rotors with cracks propogating from the drilled holes. The second gen brake rotors no longer have the holes. AFAIK the engineers never wanted the holes and they finally were allowed to have their way.
 

Chris Barnes

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If you ever browse the GT350 forum area you will see a number of photos of rotors with cracks propogating from the drilled holes. The second gen brake rotors no longer have the holes. AFAIK the engineers never wanted the holes and they finally were allowed to have their way.
I agree. In hindsight I would have never ordered my setup with the drilled rotors.
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