Able to get a sub signal when adding RCA’s between the HU and amp?

[zero_chance]

For anyone that has added RCA’s to the factory setup between the HU/ACM and amp, did the RCA’s provide a signal that allowed for an aftermarket sub to be installed? Read through all 64 pages of the sticky thread and one post stood out about someone not getting any low frequencies, even with the low pass on. I was under the impression we could Forscan the EQ to allow for this, but lost a little hope after reading his posts.

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[zero_chance]

In case anyone is wondering, the answer is yes. Made a breakout box similar to the ones you’ve probably already seen, and I am getting good bass (untuned) on my initial trial run.

 

[TaraFirma]

If the rear deck speakers are not getting full range signal, and can't be used for a converter for a sub amp, where are you getting the signal for an amp and sub install?

 

[dgreene]

My vehicle had the 9 speaker Setup/DSP and that amp outputs the line signal (pins 1+,2-,3 (shield) on grey connector) a VERY LOW volume. (I was able to amplify signal using a stage grade sound mixer in my driveway, however that is not feasible on the road). I wanted to see what the signal level was and it is there, just VERY low, "mic" level in my pro audio world.

I purchased a used what I believed was a shaker amp (checked with ford parts) to find the same signal level was present. At that point, I played with "DSP" settings in forscan. Matching it up from some ASBUILT data from a vehicle of the same year, with the shaker system.

Again no changes.

I ordered what I was told is the true shaker series amp and it is on it way.

Depending on the DSP and Settings (via forscan) yes the back speakers are configured (by the DSP) with a high pass filter. So very limited bass response will come from them using a speaker level signal converter. I temporarily pulled my sub signal from the front lower door woofers.

 

[FreePenguin]

I have full sub source signal, my car was 9 speaker, I bought a amp and acm from 12 speaker car.

Swapped those with mine, I talked my rca’s into the stock amp under driver side kick panel.

Those ran to my mono d amp. Sounds phenomenal. Now I did disable factory eq. Line level, and I have jl stealrhbox powered by Mrv-m500

 

[zero_chance]

If the rear deck speakers are not getting full range signal, and can't be used for a converter for a sub amp, where are you getting the signal for an amp and sub install?

Built my own custom breakout box that plugs into the factory connectors at the amp
Location and gives me an actual 12v remote turn on, as well as two sets of RCA outputs stolen from the factory line level feeds. I only use front sound stage so the original rear speaker output goes to my sub amp to provide my bass, while the front RCAs Go to my front amp and then feed my components up front. Outstanding results. Also allowed me to tap back into factory wiring for the front door speaker wiring as well.

 

[Racemaster]

Built my own custom breakout box that plugs into the factory connectors at the amp
Location and gives me an actual 12v remote turn on, as well as two sets of RCA outputs stolen from the factory line level feeds. I only use front sound stage so the original rear speaker output goes to my sub amp to provide my bass, while the front RCAs Go to my front amp and then feed my components up front. Outstanding results. Also allowed me to tap back into factory wiring for the front door speaker wiring as well.

 

[zero_chance]

Owe it all to that guy!

 

[GTP]

Built my own custom breakout box that plugs into the factory connectors at the amp
Location and gives me an actual 12v remote turn on, as well as two sets of RCA outputs stolen from the factory line level feeds. I only use front sound stage so the original rear speaker output goes to my sub amp to provide my bass, while the front RCAs Go to my front amp and then feed my components up front. Outstanding results. Also allowed me to tap back into factory wiring for the front door speaker wiring as well.

^^ THIS is the way to do it. The rear shelf speakers (in the older 9-speaker systems) sound best when they are OFF.

And because the rear speakers are only hurting the sound, another way to implement @zero_chance idea is to repurpose the 2 pairs of speaker wires going to those rear shelf speakers.

1. Move their inputs (somehow) over to piggyback onto the lower door speakers, at the amp output wires. (Because those speakers get full bass.)
2. Move their outputs from the rear shelf speakers over to a stereo high-level input style amplifier.
3. Power a dual voice coil subwoofer with the new amplifier. Or you could run a pair of single VC woofers.
4. Adjust the new amp gain and crossover.
5. Zenclosures makes behind-the-seat boxes for the woofer(s).

The beauty of this scheme is that (a) no breakout is needed, (b) no Forscan is needed, and (c) no new signal wires to the back are needed. The biggest hassle (IMO) would be to run heavy power/ground to the trunk for the new power amp.

If there was sufficient interest, I would be willing to develop such a system that could be ordered as a kit. Proper full acoustic development at my lab of course.

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