Manual: No warm up

[Bikeman315]

This thread might just keep going for pages because people are stuck home bored, over analyzing everything...LOL

LOL. Now where's my key fob?

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[LxMike]

LOL. Now where's my key fob?

Nooooooooooo!!

 

[gixxersixxerman]

People that still think they have to warm up a car for 10 mins to “protect the engine” (not because of comfort) are the same ones changing oil every 3k miles when 7500-10k will still be providing the same protection(under regular use, not HD or track use). Stuck in their ways.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Warming up the car for ten minutes to 'protect the engine' is useless and wasteful. But half a minute, until the idle revs stabilize, makes sense.
Sometimes though it's not so much about warming up the engine, but about warming up the interior and the seats - hence the remote start.

 

[Dfeeds]

It's not just clean moisture. It's corrosive moisture. Nitrogen oxides that result from burning the gasoline combine with condensation to create nitrous and/or nitric acid, which is corrosive stuff. You don't want to leave that in your cylinders over night.
Once the engine is up to normal operating temperature, two things happen. First, there's no condensation anymore, as the cylinders are hot. Second, the oil is now fully able to do its job of cleaning the cylinder walls (which it doesn't do very well when it's cold). So now it's OK to turn it off - the cylinder walls are clean and will stay clean.

Nothing that a good long drive can't solve. Short trips aren't ideal, I won't argue that, but short commutes won't be an engine killer if there's some good long cruises to go with it. Now if the only thing the vehicle sees is 1 mile commuted then that's a problem. Although, at that point, you're looking at a 5-10 minute bike ride so my questions would be pointed in a different direction.



As an aside, gas is getting cheaper and traffic is almost nonexistent. It's perfect cruising conditions.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

I typically start the car, then buckle up, look in my mirrors, etc., then gently drive off. That process takes ~20 seconds, give or take. One caveat is that I do that because my house and work are in a spot where I drive very lightly for several minutes or more before getting to an interstate or highway. This fall, my office is moving and it will be 1/8 mile from the interstate on ramp. I'll likely let the car idle a little longer on cold days in the parking garage (a minute or two) using remote start, so the internals can start to rise in temperature before pulling onto the freeway. Most of the time I'll probably be able to mozy up the ramp, but there may be times where I need a little juice.

 

[Andy13186]

I typically start the car, then buckle up, look in my mirrors, etc., then gently drive off. That process takes ~20 seconds, give or take. One caveat is that I do that because my house and work are in a spot where I drive very lightly for several minutes or more before getting to an interstate or highway. This fall, my office is moving and it will be 1/8 mile from the interstate on ramp. I'll likely let the car idle a little longer on cold days in the parking garage (a minute or two) using remote start, so the internals can start to rise in temperature before pulling onto the freeway. Most of the time I'll probably be able to mozy up the ramp, but there may be times where I need a little juice.

I live 1/8th mile from an interstate ramp currently but I have to drive over 2 speedbumps and open a gate then stop at a stop sign to get there. No warm up has been fine for me but I also live in Florida where it barely gets below 45* in the winters. I just keep the rpms below 3k when accellerating on the on ramp and I havent had problems. If I lived in a colder place I may give it slightly more time or use lighter oil. I already use 0w30 though.

 

[frank s]

Holey Moley!

This thread might just keep going for pages because people are stuck home bored, over analyzing everything...LOL

Holey Moley! I thought it was a new "given" that it's impossible to over-analyze anything. Based on forum behaviors preceding by years any Hunker-Down-In-Place requirements. Or is it something within many online denizens? The need to say something, even though it doesn't need to be said in the context of general and specific knowledge or action. Just a little passing-of-gas that makes the passer feel better?

(He said, over-analyzing and passing gas.)

 

[MikeHTally]

And yet they give us a remote start option. Go figure...

Har! That's for me when it's below 25 outside and seldom more than a minute.

 

[Rock&Roll]

10-20 seconds I start driving. I just don't beat on it right away. I' do that with every car

 

[TunedN]

This makes no sense. Oil pressure is directly related to engine rpm since the pump is driven off the engine. Yes - it is higher during cold start procedure vs. warm start but that lasts a minute or so and only matters at idle.

I believe it has more to do with oil viscosity than pump speed. Higher viscosity = higher pressure. If you have the PP option, there is a gauge on the dash and it clearly starts high then drops about 30% when the car is warm. Piston seals and other components have a thermal expansion coefficient which also effects how fluids and gasses move around in the engine.

My comment about valve buildup was relevant only to the Ecoboost. I forget this forum has no separate sections based on engine. In my case it's a DI engine therefore:
When the idle speed stabilizes, that means sensors find things are up to temp. Before then, when you go over about 3k RPMs, the pressure is as high as possible. That's when you get the most blowby and sludge running back through the intake and all over the back of the intake valves. For the V6 or GT, you have less to worry about when starting up and driving away immediately.

I'm not saying my original comment was necessarily 100% correct, but it's what I've been told by people who do this kind of work for a living.

 

[seth21w]

I just let mine idle until the revs get down from 1300rpm to 1000rpm my car let's me know by doing that. Usually about 1 min tops.

 

[13GetThere]

I'm kinda scratching my bald head here. Guys who in all likely hood run the crap out of their cars, are talking about how to get the best engine life out of their engines by not idling or warming them up. I'm probably as guilty as anyone here about babying MY vehicles, yet I'm also guilty of abusing on a daily basis somebody else's vehicle. In the end, it's kind of hard to tell which one last the longest when it comes to miles driven.
I drove police cars almost every day riding a beat for 18 years. I drove fleet cars that operated 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and operated by 6 different drivers in that 24 hours until they just couldn't make it go anymore. I also drove take home cars that put in 8 to 10 hour shifts plus what I put on them off duty. You can't imagine the abuse those cars go through; started cold and run hard, idling for hours, started and stopped just minutes apart, run wide open for long periods of time, stop and go traffic, etc., etc..The cars were serviced regularly for the most part. It was really rare to have an issue with the engine. Now brakes, transmission, suspension, tires, and interiors had issues, but rarely engines.
If a car was taken out of service because the bean counters said it was time, then it probably had a 150,000 miles on it, and may still have another 150,000 left in it. If it was taken out of service before that, then it was probably totaled.
Now I'm still going to baby my baby, but I'm not going to worry if it idles for more than a few seconds, or doesn't get up to temperature when I shut it off for gas a few times. I will see that it gets regular service and oil changes.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I'm kinda scratching my bald head here. Guys who in all likely hood run the crap out of their cars, are talking about how to get the best engine life out of their engines by not idling or warming them up.

The way most of these "you don't have to warm your car up at all" responses are put together sound a lot more like excuses for not wanting to be inconvenienced or delayed in their travel than anything else. In many cases, it's coming off like any warm-up idling whatsoever is by [their] definition too much.


Norm

 

[Blue Moon]

I believe it has more to do with oil viscosity than pump speed. Higher viscosity = higher pressure. If you have the PP option, there is a gauge on the dash and it clearly starts high then drops about 30% when the car is warm.

Totally agree with this. If I'm wondering whether or not my oil is up to normal operating temp and don't want to bother pushing all the buttons to display the temp gauge, I just glance at the oil pressure gauge and if the pressure is high, I know the oil is still cold.

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