RubberFeet
Active Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2019
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 32
- Reaction score
- 6
- Location
- PrescottAZ
- First Name
- Stewart
- Vehicle(s)
- S550
and your Lund tuner is...?
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Your only electrical is the bowler harness correct? I have a couple of harnesses but not entirely sure what each does. My reverse light and camera come on so I'm pretty sure that's a portion of it. Also I think another one might be the reverse lockout. Is your reverse gear really stiff to get into? Like you have to stiff arm it from the side lol?Update on mine:
My cruise control is finally working and the misfire codes may have been my fault. Can't remember for the life of me if I did a crank relearn after the last time the clutch was out. Flashed the newest tune last night and followed up with crank relearn and KAM reset. Finished bedding in the drag brakes and all seems well atm.
Glad you finally got the tuner on board with the issue. Now get out there and enjoy it plus let me know how the first track day goes.Update on mine:
My cruise control is finally working and the misfire codes may have been my fault. Can't remember for the life of me if I did a crank relearn after the last time the clutch was out. Flashed the newest tune last night and followed up with crank relearn and KAM reset. Finished bedding in the drag brakes and all seems well atm.
If your reverse lockout solenoid is connected properly, the effort to get in reverse is like going into any other gear. Unconnected and you're arm wrestling with a pro.Your only electrical is the bowler harness correct? I have a couple of harnesses but not entirely sure what each does. My reverse light and camera come on so I'm pretty sure that's a portion of it. Also I think another one might be the reverse lockout. Is your reverse gear really stiff to get into? Like you have to stiff arm it from the side lol?
Welp. It's a tossup if I fix it now though, since my right arm tricep has been looking pretty nice since I did the swapGlad you finally got the tuner on board with the issue. Now get out there and enjoy it plus let me know how the first track day goes.
If your reverse lockout solenoid is connected properly, the effort to get in reverse is like going into any other gear. Unconnected and you're arm wrestling with a pro.
The Bowler harness is the only electrical I messed with. My reverse lights, camera, reverse solenoid and now cruise control all work. My trans is super easy to get into reverse when sitting still. I haven't tried while moving, tbh.Your only electrical is the bowler harness correct? I have a couple of harnesses but not entirely sure what each does. My reverse light and camera come on so I'm pretty sure that's a portion of it. Also I think another one might be the reverse lockout. Is your reverse gear really stiff to get into? Like you have to stiff arm it from the side lol?
Yeah man, time to get some suspension parts installed! I can't wait to go to the track!Glad you finally got the tuner on board with the issue. Now get out there and enjoy it plus let me know how the first track day goes.
If your reverse lockout solenoid is connected properly, the effort to get in reverse is like going into any other gear. Unconnected and you're arm wrestling with a pro.
I went with the Ram 900S Pro Street dual disc with metallic friction discs. You can feather it to reduce chatter, but it's there. Ram had to add preload to my clutch, due to too low of engagement. If yours is engaging high, take the shim out. I assume you shimmed the slave cylinder. It may be difficult to find a clutch that you can really "feel", due to the nature of hydraulic clutches.Question for you guys who completed the installation.
Which clutch did you go with and how is it?
I got an RST and it's very soft. Can't feel the engage and the the engage/disenage is at the very very top. I put a shim in but I heard it's not needed.
Looking to get something that you can actually feel engage/disengage and hopefully not have a clutch point where you could sneeze and it would push the clutch pedal far enough to change gears.
Thanks
I went with Mantic. Feels really nice IMO, similar to stock, but it does chatter a little bit when taking off in first gear. Only other issue is when the pedal is pressed to the floor hard, there is a bit of grinding from overextending the TOB (I'm guessing), but I never press the pedal that hard anyways (even during aggressive shifting) so it's not a huge concern. I was thinking about putting a small rubber spacer on the back of the pedal to be extra safe.Question for you guys who completed the installation.
Which clutch did you go with and how is it?
I got an RST and it's very soft. Can't feel the engage and the the engage/disenage is at the very very top. I put a shim in but I heard it's not needed.
Looking to get something that you can actually feel engage/disengage and hopefully not have a clutch point where you could sneeze and it would push the clutch pedal far enough to change gears.
Thanks
I'm assuming the splines were probably worn down from the heavy use. I picked it up from a friend and he daily drove it for about a year so I assume there were at least 15k miles on the setup (no track use though).Mentioning the RXT chewing up input shaft (mine is the RST), was it the splines? Your slight depressing of the clutch? I went with the McLeod before I knew better. How many miles before you had issues? To do over I think the Tilton would be my choice. How do you like the Mantic? I know, way too many ??s.