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cobo10201

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So he never actually ran the turbos of wastegate pressure only, which would have been the easiest way to find out if it was the manual boost controller or wastegates causing the issue. Plus it makes it easier to troubleshoot the individual turbos and or wastegates.
No I did exactly that. I ran a line from the compressor, then split the line to each turbo. Still had overboost, but this was before I found the leak. Been at work all day so I haven’t had a chance to see if fixing the leak fixed the overboost.
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cobo10201

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So I fixed the leak and am still making too much boost. For now I am taking the boost controller completely out of the equation. I can pressurize the whole system and the needle on the MityVac holds steady no matter what pressure it’s at.

The boost at WOT in 3rd gear gets as high as 12 psi still but does seem like a spike because it then evens out about 10-11.

I’m going to see about playing with the wastegates some more. Someone on reddit suggested that the wastegates may be “too weak” as in I didn’t set the preload correctly, causing the wastegates to not operate properly.

I’ll be at work until 6:30 so unfortunately won’t be able to check anything until then.
 

USMCtoARMY

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Loving it! Cant wait for a dyno and results!
 

Falk03

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Also I have a set of custom 2 3/8” down pipes for a S550 3.7 ecoboost build that I would sale. I’m not going to use them.
They are made of thick stainless scheduled pipe, with a flex section and connect to the over axles, they work fine (what I used for the initial tuning on my car). I went with bigger down pipes and exhaust because my turbos are bigger. Again these are for S550 3.7 ecoboost builds and will bolt right up. PM me if interested
9438B3F0-B2D3-464F-9D7E-5F7422715CAE.jpeg
BDB2474B-898B-4BA4-90A3-F7E708C9D4DA.jpeg
This looks great. Would there be enough room for the cats?
 

USMCtoARMY

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This looks great. Would there be enough room for the cats?
No the cats are deleted for a good reason on the EB conversion. You have to remove the flow restrictions or you risk longterm engine health (think pistons). You could add some hi flow cat cells at some point in the stream but i wouldn't recommend it.
 

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USMCtoARMY

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I'm going to leave this here. Should've put it in this thread instead. Pics Inside. Hopefully one of you can give me a solid answer.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/procharger-custom-body-pics-inside.137629/
Here is my answer from the post:

"I would check the technical specs of the ProCharger recommended coolant reservoir tank. Then see how close you can get with a different brand. If you go "cheapo" you will need to still buy quality lines and not use that cheap shit they will provide for you. The problem with cheapo is the welds and more than likely they aren't tested in anyway."
 

SilverbackGT

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Hey everyone. I hope I'm posting this on the right place. My 2016 GT was totaled recently. I'd been prepping it for NASA time trials but now that's over and I'm moving on. I really like the idea of a twin turbo v6. How is the weight compared to a stock v8? Has this setup been tested much on the racetrack? Any recommendations?
 

USMCtoARMY

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Hey everyone. I hope I'm posting this on the right place. My 2016 GT was totaled recently. I'd been prepping it for NASA time trials but now that's over and I'm moving on. I really like the idea of a twin turbo v6. How is the weight compared to a stock v8? Has this setup been tested much on the racetrack? Any recommendations?
The twin turbo game is not a plug and play for our platform. Really only two options. Build your own or get a shop to custom build. All the road course guys I know are om procharge builds. I am currently in the midst of a custom top mount twin turbo build that I will eventually run on road course. These engines respond well to properly tuned boost application. They do have a weakness in the pistons/piston rings if not properly tuned or run on continuous hard runs at high boost. Most have run 500-550whp / 400 plus TQ for many miles without problems. All about insuring good engine temp and e85 fuel or better at those numbers. The 3.7 is great fun with a proper suspension build and good turbo build. The lighter nose and high revving cyclone engine has potential.
 

SilverbackGT

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The twin turbo game is not a plug and play for our platform. Really only two options. Build your own or get a shop to custom build. All the road course guys I know are om procharge builds. I am currently in the midst of a custom top mount twin turbo build that I will eventually run on road course. These engines respond well to properly tuned boost application. They do have a weakness in the pistons/piston rings if not properly tuned or run on continuous hard runs at high boost. Most have run 500-550whp / 400 plus TQ for many miles without problems. All about insuring good engine temp and e85 fuel or better at those numbers. The 3.7 is great fun with a proper suspension build and good turbo build. The lighter nose and high revving cyclone engine has potential.
If you had it to do all over again, would you buy a v6 for this purpose? The weight savings is what drew me in but after the power adders, how much are you saving? I'm limited to about 420whp @ a curb weight of 3600lbs and 93 octane with no meth injection. Does this sound like the right platform or should I be looking to the i4 or v8 instead? As previously mentioned, my last car was the 5.0 but I see potential with the v6. My budget after buying the car is about $15-20k.
 

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USMCtoARMY

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If you had it to do all over again, would you buy a v6 for this purpose? The weight savings is what drew me in but after the power adders, how much are you saving? I'm limited to about 420whp @ a curb weight of 3600lbs and 93 octane with no meth injection. Does this sound like the right platform or should I be looking to the i4 or v8 instead? As previously mentioned, my last car was the 5.0 but I see potential with the v6. My budget after buying the car is about $15-20k.
S550 3.7L Stock Curb Weight: 3526 lbs.

If you lighten the V6 platform you will easily make that weight with a power adder. Since your limited to 420 whp its real easy to hit those numbers on 93. Procharger does that all day on a canned tune. Twin setup even easier. Your budget can make that work right where you want to be. I've invested 10k, and that is everything (clutch, driveshaft, complete suspension overhaul, decent brake upgrade, turbo kit) including non functional and functional interior/exterior cosmetics. That doesn't include tires and wheels. Many of the suspension components are lighter than stock, driveshaft is a 20 pounds weight saving, wheels and tires can provide over 40 pound weight saving, exhaust, etc.

The attractive part about the cyclone over the v8 or I4 is the entry price and super cheap engine if it were to go. The cyclone is also a very stout engine and has been used in a racing application. The EcoBoost I4 is a structural weak engine. Coyote, well we know its a great motor. Other than that the aftermarket is slim for the ENGINE, but everything else is practically interchangeable with the lineup. I like doing things different so yes I would do it again...its also my third v6 mustang (came from JDM world, but like mustangs).
 
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SilverbackGT

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S550 3.7L Stock Curb Weight: 3526 lbs.

If you lighten the V6 platform you will easily make that weight with a power adder. Since your limited to 420 whp its real easy to hit those numbers on 93. Procharger does that all day on a canned tune. Twin setup even easier. Your budget can make that work right where you want to be. I've invested 10k, and that is everything (clutch, driveshaft, complete suspension overhaul, turbo kit) including non and functional interior/exterior cosmetics. That doesn't include tires and wheels. Many of the suspension components are lighter than stock, driveshaft is a 20 pounds weight saving, wheels and tires can provide over 40 pound weight saving, exhaust, etc.

The attractive part about the cyclone over the v8 or I4 is the entry price and super cheap engine if it were to go. The cyclone is also a very stout engine and has been used in a racing application. The EcoBoost I4 is a structural weak engine. Coyote, well we know its a great motor. Other than that the aftermarket is slim for the ENGINE, but everything else is practically interchangeable with the lineup. I like doing things different so yes I would do it again...its also my third v6 mustang (came from JDM world, but like mustangs).
Would you recommend a twin turbo or procharger setup for track duty?

I found a 2015 v6 MT with 68k. Clutch is brand new and it already has coilovers. At this price point, there's room in the budget for an engine tear down and rebuild. Is this a smart move? What needs upgrading while I'm in there? Think endurance racing and reliability.

Since you mentioned JDM, how does this compare to the 370z in your opinion? Stock they're making a little more power and weigh about 300lbs less than the mustang.
 

USMCtoARMY

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Would you recommend a twin turbo or procharger setup for track duty?

I found a 2015 v6 MT with 68k. Clutch is brand new and it already has coilovers. At this price point, there's room in the budget for an engine tear down and rebuild. Is this a smart move? What needs upgrading while I'm in there? Think endurance racing and reliability.

Since you mentioned JDM, how does this compare to the 370z in your opinion? Stock they're making a little more power and weigh about 300lbs less than the mustang.
For a roadcourse setup at the power levels you described you wont need to do internals. Complety unnecessary. If it's piece of mind you want then your looking at a MINIMUM of 3500 in parts to factor into your budget. Your talking rods, pistons, piston rings, and maybe new head studs. That's not including the labor. Super Six Motosports does sell a stoker kit that inlcudes rods, pistons/piston rings, and crank for around 4000. Cheaper at that point to buy a another motor, like I said they are cheap engines (can be found well under 2000). These engines are stout. They can take a lot of punishment. If you want a plug and play setup out the box the Procharger may be for you, but Procharger delivery is linear and doesn't come on big down low and doesn't have the track TQ you may want coming out of turns. However, it's controllable power. It's also about 8000 new with supporting mods. Twins will be dependent on the build and setup you go with, and again it will be a custom build not out the box. If your serious about turbos in track setup an oil cooler and an auto blip system (unless your heel to toe is on point) would be good. Upgrade your front brakes at minimum to the base GT four pots with proper pads and rotors. The 370z is lighter and has more neutral blance stock for stock, but a mustang is faster in the straights. Honestly, the Z is a hella of track car if tuned properly. Boost changes the characteristics of these platfoms in different ways. Good ways.

You will eventually need an upgraded clutch.
 
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SilverbackGT

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For a roadcourse setup at the power levels you described you wont need to do internals. Complety unnecessary. If it's piece of mind you want then your looking at a MINIMUM of 3500 in parts to factor into your budget. Your talking rods, pistons, piston rings, and maybe new head studs. That's not including the labor. Super Six Motosports does sell a stoker kit that inlcudes rods, pistons/piston rings, and crank for around 4000. Cheaper at that point to buy a another motor, like I said they are cheap engines (can be found well under 2000). These engines are stout. They can take a lot of punishment. If you want a plug and play setup out the box the Procharger may be for you, but Procharger delivery is linear and doesn't come on big down low and doesn't have the track TQ you may want coming out of turns. However, it's controllable power. It's also about 8000 new with supporting mods. Twins will be dependent on the build and setup you go with, and again it will be a custom build not out the box. If your serious about turbos in track setup an oil cooler and an auto blip system (unless your heel to toe is on point) would be good. Upgrade your front brakes at minimum to the base GT four pots with proper pads and rotors. The 370z is lighter and has more neutral blance stock for stock, but a mustang is faster in the straights. Honestly, the Z is a hella of track car if tuned properly. Boost changes the characteristics of these platfoms in different ways. Good ways.

You will eventually need an upgraded clutch.
My number crunching left-side brain says go with the z car. I've been wanting one since the debut of the 350z. But that's not what I'm gonna do. I love the idea of an American-made, twin turbo v6 mustang and I was looking for someone familiar with the platform to finish talking me into it so I appreciate that. Bonus is that I still have some upgraded suspension components and a set of 18x11 ec7s. Not to mention my previous experience driving and upgrading 2016 GT. The 370z probably can't easily run a square fitment of 315 width tires either! (Don't correct me if I'm wrong lol ) I already reached out to the premier mustang shop in my area so waiting to hear back from them. I'm definitely leaning towards a twin setup but I need some help putting together a parts list. I saw the super six Ecoboost "kit" but I think there's gotta be a better way to do it. Someone mentioned sending off the stock turbos to get rebuilt in a previous thread? Any advice would be much appreciated.
 

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NPG or JMP are the way to go for "real" turbo kits, not sure what the build times are for either right now. The Super Six kit on E85 could probably work okay for you as well though since you're trying to stay under 420 wheel and it would need E85 for that (unless you upgrade it like Paul). Not sure if the torque there might be too much for you instead of higher up power.

I am a little curious on what you could make with a full NA build though, might not quite hit the 420, but could be pretty fun - at least while on the track.
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