2019 GT MT82 - Rear drag rims and bias ply recommendations

[cib24]

I'm after rear rim/wheel sizes and drag radial or bias ply tyre recommendations. My car is a PP1 spec.

I think some 17s fit on the rear but 18s are a sure thing. I want to keep it cheap.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rota-Gri...701870?hash=item3fdce171ae:g:RrYAAOSwEFhdj-Ki

I don't know where to get the right drag radials or bias ply tyres in the UK yet, but I'll keep looking.

Can someone advise the correct size 18" rim/wheel, width and offset plus drag radia or bias ply tyre size for a stock N/A car?

I have just spent two Sundays at the strip with little luck in my MT82 2019 GT. I have no consistency with this car as I run into the following issues every single time:

1. Very bad wheel hop
2. 2nd gear the car falls flat on its face but regains power in 3rd gear
3. Leaving too soft and bogging down killing the 60 foot
4. Excessive wheel spin in 1st and 2nd killing the 60 foot and the 1/8th

My car is bone stock on the Michelin PS4S tyres, and I have had them at 22-23 PSi cold. I have tried 5-6 second burnouts before staging, a quick 1-2 second burnout, and no burnout. I have slipped and tried to ride the clutch at 2000, 2500, 3000, and 3500 RPM.

My best 60 foot is 2.35 seconds and the majority of them are 2.5-2.65 seconds. Terrible.

The weather the past two weekends was 45-50 degrees F and the headwind was 20-25 mph.

My best time is a 13.7 @ 109.3 mph. Most of the time the mph is 108-109 except when 2nd gear falls flat on its face for some reason. Then my mph is 104-105.

Car has 3.55 gearing with the 2019 MT82 long transmission ratios.

Not really sure how to make the car launch much better given it either hops, bogs or somehow kills its own power in 2nd.

I'm thinking of going straight to drag radials or bias ply tyres and using launch control at 4500-5500 RPM after a lengthy 10 second line lock burnout. Our tracks aren't prepped to the same level as most drag strips in the States but I frankly don't see another way to cut a materially better 60 foot. With more practice I may cut a 2.1 60 but I doubt there is more in it before my PS4S tyres go bald. I'm convinced the car needs a driver mod, but it also really needs better rear tyres that give and take some of the hop and wheel spin away.

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[ponie1992]

With that rear gear, I'd be tempted to try a 26 inch rear tire. Not sure if you can get one for a 17 inch wheel though. That also wouldn't leave much sidewall.

 

[Jay-rod427]

You will want bias slicks with a manual. I wouldn't do a 10 second burnout. You can get the tires too hot and goey. Slicks will improve, but unless you address the wheel hop with suspension upgrades it's not going to be that big of an improvement. and possibly snap axles with wheel hop.

 

[cib24]

You will want bias slicks with a manual. I wouldn't do a 10 second burnout. You can get the tires too hot and goey. Slicks will improve, but unless you address the wheel hop with suspension upgrades it's not going to be that big of an improvement. and possibly snap axles with wheel hop.

Thanks. I have the BMR CB005, BMR IRS alignment kit, 4.09 and Torsen diff which I will install soon, although I was hoping to try my best with the car bone stock minus better tyres first.

I am also looking into BMR LCA bearings and poly bush diff inserts for the diff cradle.

As for tyres I think I'm set on the Mickey Thompson ET Street R Bias 28x11.5 R17 tyres.

For rims, I think a 17x9.5 goes with them? I'm not sure about the offset. It's easier to buy some used Japanese Einkei (or copies) in that size with ET38 offset, than to buy Forgestars or Racestars and import.

Any thoughts on that plan of attack?

 

[ugstang17]

Def some learning curve for you. I ran 12.74 @ 114 best all stock in my 13 stick shift car on stock tires cutting 2.0 60's. Oh and that is with a 3.31 gear. Oh and that is without power shifting. I lift when I shift and I shifted at 7000 RPM. On average the car went 12.80's all day on a 2.0 60ft. in average air.

1st try shutting off your traction control COMPLETELY. Read the manual on how to do this. You're literate, open the manual. That's what its there for.

Leave at 2500 RPM max on stock tires. Make about 3-4 revs on your burn out DRY. You are just cleaning the pebbles off. Don't JOHN FORCE THE BURN OUT! AND DO NOT GO THROUGH THE WATER BOX. GO AROUND IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.

Don't run the tires below 28psi (whatever that is in your world IDK).

Learn to drive the car and then start concerning yourself with mods. You thought it would be easy didn't you? Finding that happy way to release the clutch . SEAT TIME SEAT TIME SEAT TIME SEAT TIME!!! You want the easy route? Trade it for an auto. But take from me, the satisfaction of making a good pass with an auto and doing it as consistent as an auto will (for the Novice anyway which I still consider myself) just isn't as rewarding as making one great pass with a stick and 4 average passes in an evening.

For suspension mods...BMR. Call them they will help you with the wheel hop.
For tire height I would tend to agree with a 26 or 27 (27 is stock or very close to height).
Tire Brand - Mickey Thompson or Hoosier. Go with a bias ply. Tubes will minimize some sway at the big end. Otherwise run them without tubes for better hook off the line.

Once you get to this point, the next thing that will be an issue (after you start leaving at higher RPM) will be the clutch. But shouldn't be an immediate issue unless you are just beating the Harry out of it every weekend making 10 passes at a track visit.

Do your research. Plenty of information on this and other sites on this topic.

Oh and one more thing...SEAT TIME! Takes time and hands on practice...especially with a stick. This isn't something you can take an elective college course on and become an overnight expert.

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